LeRoiGross
Member
I am restoring my original generator and trying to figure out where the thin insulators go with my new field coils. This is a fourth generation generator with the spring and wick oiler on the back end. Anybody know?
Generator rebuild
- Thread starter LeRoiGross
- Start date
There are many insulators inside a generator. Need to know which one you're referring to. If you can't take a picture and post it, just a brief description of shape & size. There's a flat heavy paper like insulator, about 4-5 inches long with a diagonal cut off the corner on either end that goes under the wire that joins the two field coils. Then there are several small round fiber insulator discs and bushings used in the brush assemblies. Any of this sound familiar?
LeRoiGross
Member
The insulator I am interested in is the flat paper with the corners cut off. If I put it under the top of the coils it interferes with the output bolt. If I put it under the bottom of the coils it fits but it doesn't protect the crossover connection. Should there be 2 insulators, one in front and one in back? They can't go under the shoes because they would interrupt the magnetic connection to the shell.
LeRoiGross
Member
I just rechecked and if I put it on the bottom of the coils as the Snyder drawing shows, then it would protect the crossover wire between the coils. That would probably work OK. Looks like I will have to be very careful putting the through bolt in place.
LeRoiGross
Member
I got the insulator in place and now I have trouble getting the field coils to snug up to the frame. The new repro coils are too thick. I am squeezing then flatter in a vise but still can barely get the armature to slide in. Using an impact screwdriver helps tighten up the screws. Will have to keep banging on it. Might have to take the insulator out again.
OK, Nobody has mentioned this. Originally, that insulator has a tent-like peak built into the center. When put into place this would allow the the long end plate bolt to go under the "tent" and allow no way for the shank of the bolt and the wire running from one field coil to the other. The "tent" can be formed by carefully bending the insulator in half (midway from one side to the other). Then about 3/4" to either side of this center line, bend the insulator back the other way.
BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO MAKE THE BENDS IN THE INSULATOR LIKE YOU ARE TRYING TO CREATE A TEAR LINE IN A PIECE OF PAPER. BEND THE INSULATOR JUST ENOUGH FOR IT TO HOLD THE EDGE THE CREASE HAS CAUSED. IF YOU BEND IT TOO SHARPLY, THE INSULATOR WILL "BREAK" ALONG THE CREASE.
When inserting the insulator under the windings, make the tent stand up only high enough for the bolt to slide through easily and let the winding crossover wire lay on top of the insulator. Insert the front edge of the insulator under the windings only far enough for the winding to hold it in place once the pole shoes are tightened. It may be necessary to use C-clamps to force the new windings as close as possible to seat against the walls of the generator housing.
Good Luck,
Bob Bader
BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO MAKE THE BENDS IN THE INSULATOR LIKE YOU ARE TRYING TO CREATE A TEAR LINE IN A PIECE OF PAPER. BEND THE INSULATOR JUST ENOUGH FOR IT TO HOLD THE EDGE THE CREASE HAS CAUSED. IF YOU BEND IT TOO SHARPLY, THE INSULATOR WILL "BREAK" ALONG THE CREASE.
When inserting the insulator under the windings, make the tent stand up only high enough for the bolt to slide through easily and let the winding crossover wire lay on top of the insulator. Insert the front edge of the insulator under the windings only far enough for the winding to hold it in place once the pole shoes are tightened. It may be necessary to use C-clamps to force the new windings as close as possible to seat against the walls of the generator housing.
Good Luck,
Bob Bader