Generator over-current

It may have been converted to a 12v generator in which case the armature would be different also. Have him check against another, if available.

No necessarilly. Changing the field coils alone will provide a 12v outout, but max current will be roughly 30% less than if the armature was rewound for 12v also. I'm not a fan of it, but changing to 12v fields is commonly done.
 
Third brush generators are not voltage regulated. They are current regulated. The battery does the voltage regulation. That is why the circuit for the battery, including a good ground, has to be in top condition.
 
An unregulated generator should put out a good bit more voltage than 6-volts on a two brush generator. One of the tests is to run it unregulated and see what the Amperage output climbs to. It should get right up to it's max capacity. I'm not sure what a 3-brush will do since I've not tried it. The circuit is different with them. The model As have several different generator types in the 4-year run. The power house would put out more than the Autolite types but they were a bit more expensive to produce. Autolites were around 15 to 18 amp capable and the powerhouse could go over 20 amps.
 
Wanted to provide an update in case anyone runs into this. It turned out that my field coils were 12V units. I have no clue how this got in the car under the previous owner. I'm now getting 8V and roughly 3A out of the generator.

Thanks for all the help here.
 
@99sh, Thanks for following up and sharing the solution to the issue. That is why these forums are so useful!

I sell an Electronic Voltage Regulator for Model A Generators. So, my bias here is therefore declared ��.

Like ndnchf, I have tested a bunch of generators and found that they typically put out over 9V until the load matches the output setting of the third brush. After that, as load increases, generator output voltage drops.

The maximum charge voltage for a 6V battery is 7.1volts. Above 7.1V the battery electrolyte starts to gas off. If the electrolyte drops below the level of the battery plates, the battery life will be compromised. The gassing off can also cause battery terminal corrosion. Minimum 6V battery charge voltage is 6.45V so if the generator is putting out less than that, the battery is being drained.

This is why the owner’s manual said to adjust the third brush depending on day or night driving conditions = headlamps on or off. The owners manual also said to regularly check the battery electrolyte.

As electrical loads increased in the mid to late '30s Ford caught up to other manufactures and introduced a voltage regulator. The electromechanical voltage regulator at the time adjusted the current to the field coils to maintain the generator output below 7.2V. It also restricted the maximum current output of the generator to protect wiring and the battery.

Tom Wesenberg designed an electronic voltage regulator (EVR) for the Model A generators (Long-style and Powerhouse) that fit within the generator case. James Petersen also had a similar circuit design that attached to the cover band. James passed a couple years ago. The EVR does the same thing as the electromechanical voltage regulator – regulates current to the field coils to limit voltage output to 7.1V. It works up to the maximum output of the stock Model generator which is around 10 to 12 amps. Tom sold his EVRs for over 20 years until he sadly passed.

I had an alternator on my car and I didn’t like the fact that it required a high RPM to kick in (that is why it has such a small pulley for the Model A). I didn’t like the look of a modern device on my car which I went out of the way to try and keep authentic (but not to be judged (;-). …and I didn’t need over 60A of output as I don’t have a fridge, cigarette lighter, flood lights or run Christmas decorations. I tracked down Tom in 2008, got one of his EVRs, and as everybody that owns one will attest, it has worked flawlessly since. So… I don’t agree that the answer to everybody’s generator problems is an alternator. The Model A generator is dependable, easy to maintain and fix, and as the above conversation testifies, there are a lot of people on the Forums willing to help and gentlemen like Steve (ndnchf) and others who can fix’m for you.

I now sell an EVR based on the same design as Tom’s, with some improvements. I am retired and do this to help the hobby so sometimes I have them available and sometimes I don’t until I build another batch. The EVR circuit design is well known, however, I spent over a year figuring out the components Tom used – which were obsolete anyway. I had a lot of great help from the Model A community along the way – thank you.

Additional details are on the recent “voltage regulator” post on this Forum if you are interested.

Thanks for reading. And as we say in Canada – “sorry”... particularly if I offended anybody.
 
Urgh. Hindsight is 20/20.

Would have been good to know if the car had been converted to 12V before you invested in a new battery. Check bulbs and horn for 6/12V. Bulbs are easily replaced (recommend LEDs). Horn may have a series resistor, easily removed. If it has been rewound, though, you will have to replace it.
 
Bob, I hear the alternators always drain the battery during off periods... Therefore, I have never considered one.
 
Original generators seem to be plentiful at swap meets here in UK and more so in USA $ 5 to $ 20 or maybe I have just been lucky . Many been replaced by alternators .Put another one on ,lube the bearings check the brushes and do the motoring check also the " sniff test " Luckily I have never bought a duff one . I dont need anymore but I cant resist a bargain !!!

John in cold wet 90 MPH gales to come in Scotland and windy here Suffolk County England
 
The alternator is a good choice for a car that gets driven frequently. For a show car, keep the original generator. The new voltage regulator that is mounted inside the generator is a good compromise.
 
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