Generator or alternator ?

One reason for the alternator is when using an electric fan as these require some 40 or so amperes.

Stay with the generator after a 12v conversion if you have no need for extra juice.

That's my uneducated opinion. As my engine is still on it's way with a chrome alternator installed. We shall see what we shall see once it's in the car.
 
i agree Paul. the whitney alternators are not a real high out put either, but for my car its adequate as the only "modern" thing is sealed beam headlights, which i like very much, and i do drive at night frequently.
 
I've put 20000 miles on my PowerGen, everything ok by far. I just can't stand the looks of standard GM alternator atop of my flatheads..
PeterC , man , your engine is NICE , love that air cleaner . Great work!
 
Here is the latest on mine. Got a call yesterday afternoon from "Ed" at Powergen saying they had thoroughly checked my unit top to bottom and found absolutely nothing wrong and were shipping it back. Said it was performing just as it should and said make sure there is no free play in the belt as well as a really good ground ! I should probably have it back by coming wed. and once installed, we will let y'all know . Fingers crossed on this one.
 
OK, returning back like a bad penny. Alternator came home today. I reinstalled as per instructions. Said tighten belt so if you put a socket on the nut you should be able to turn the engine. Does this not put a lot of extra strain on the water pump bearings ? Anyway, fully connected and start up, amp meter shows no charge but turn signal lever clicks discharge when pulled. Powergen sent results of their testing and seems fine. Where to go from here ? sure could use a hand from an electric guru about now.
 
Sure you probably checked it, but do you have a really good ground between the PowerGen and the engine block?
 
I do, I ran a good solid wire from the case bolt to an existing ground ******** the firewall that in turn is hooked right onto the block at the rear.
 
Bob NH said:
I do, I ran a good solid wire from the case bolt to an existing ground ******** the firewall that in turn is hooked right onto the block at the rear.
Click to expand...

Looks like you nailed the ground issue, Bob. I didn't see where you mentioned whether you're 6 volts or 12, but you need a volt meter to check the PowerGen output. If you have a multimeter, set it to DC Voltage and if you are negative ground, put the red lead on the post on the top of the alt. and the black lead to a good ground. You should see output voltage of either 6 or 12 volts, depending, if the "damn thing" is working!! :)
 
Actually, I misspoke above. If you are 12 volts, the output should be in the neighborhood of 14.5 or so volts. Sorry.
 
Maybe the power wire to the alternator does not go through your ammeter but direct to the battery side of the starter solenoid so does not show on the meter even though the alternator is charging. Check with a test light that there is actually battery power at the alternator with the engine not running. As stated all testing should be done with a voltmeter. A 6 volt alternator should read 7.5 volts at the alternator with the engine revs up, and like wise a 12 volt alt should have about 14 volts. These one wire alternators need some revs up to start them charging and may not charge at idle speed. Regards, Kevin.
 
Thank you Kevin. It is starting to get a bit clearer. I am 6V positive ground. When you say check for power at alt,are you saying with Ignition switch on or off ? Not very hard to confuse this "fossil dude" ! A neighbor looked it over today and suggested I just run it a bit on the road ,then come back and check the battery voltage to see if it still shows good. If so it must be charging but not showing on the amp gauge ? Make sense ? Thank you so far,appreciate it.
 
alternators will whine when charging, usually you can hear it if the battery is down at all. alternators need power to make power. so your wire at the alternator should show battery voltage with the key on. if no power there, it wont start to charge
 
Bob, The main battery power wire connected to your generator/alternator should have power on it all the time and is NOT controlled by the ignition switch. Maybe this wire was the one used for the original Ford generator and is still connected to the original voltage regulator on the firewall, is that the case? Would you be able to follow that wire along from the alternator and tell me where it connects to in the car. Possibilities are to the ammeter or under the dash somewhere. To the battery side of the starter solenoid ,a new wire not original Ford. To the voltage regulator on the firewall,original Ford wiring which terminal is it connected to on the regulator. ? Test at the alternator with your voltmeter set on DC VOLTS to see if you have power there. without ignition on or engine running. I suspect you have a wiring issue . Report back. Regards, Kevin.
 
Good evening , I thought I sent you a note this AM but apparently it did not go according to my "sent messages" so I'll try again. If I get your email address I could send pictures. The former owners did use the original wiring and just cut off the smaller wires that would go on the generator. If I am understanding you correctly, I should remove the present wire and run a new good size wire from the output post of the alternator right to the solenoid right hand side as I face it from the front ? That is the negative side of the battery,(I think I mentioned it is 6V positive ground) There are wires still connected to the voltage regulator and I assume they give me a reading on the ammeter? Am I in danger of damaging the alternator messing with these wires ? I very much appreciate your patience,Regards, Bob
 
Bob, think you are totally confused on how the wiring works. At least for now remove all the wires to the voltage regulator, they should not be connected to anything anyway. To be on the safe side, tape them up.

You need one wire 8 or 10 gauge from the alternator to the "hot" side of the circuit breaker panel under the dash. If the car is wired correctly there should be a wire for the starter solenoid battery side connected to the same post.

If you want to skip all of that, run the wire from the alternator directly to the "hot" terminal on the starter solenoid.

None of the car wiring should connect to the voltage regulator except the original wire from the battery that connected to the BAT terminal on the voltage regulator. There should be two other wires, the field wire from the original generator marked FLD and a wire from the armature marked ARM. There is also a ground wire to the case. These wires were required for the original generator to work and are no longer needed. If anything else is connected to the voltage regulator then there is some funny business going on. Anyway, disconnect all of the wires to the old voltage regulator and get a clean, one-wire connection to the new alternator either directly to the starter solenoid or to the circuit breaker panel.

Not sure what the time frame is for Kevin, but fairly sure he will tell you the same thing. It is possible to connect you new alternator to the original voltage regulator BAT post just using it as a terminal point to retain the original appearance, be it would be totally non-functional. However, think that is just a point of additional confusion at the moment and it is much similar to trouble shot this if it is just disconnected and bypassed.

If you have photos you would like posted several of us here on the Barn can post them for you. If you want me to, just email them to me: jseery@ymail.com
 
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JSeery, Thanks for your input, it is beginning to be a bit clearer the more questions I put forth if I don't drive everyone on here crazy first ! Will tackle it in the AM and hope for a good outcome , Thanks again guys
 
Bob, I betting you PowerGen is putting out 7.5 volts when running and that you are or will be charging your battery when you get your connections done as Jerry described above. Bear in mind that your "loop" amp meter is not the same as a volt meter. If the needle is in the center and doesn't move much, except when you turn something on like your turn signals, it may mean your battery is fully charged.

You didn't mention it, but have ever experienced a "dead" battery?
 
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