Generator mount

Gooseloony

Gooseloony

Senior Member
Two questions:

1)Friend was over assisting me on installing and inline fuel filter to contain sediment ending up in the carb causing starting issues. After we got it running he noticed the fan belt loosening slightly, there is one mounting bolt location. Is this correct or are we missing something (don't see another area that would accommodate another mount location)? Seems the one mount doesn't hold the generator securely enough. See photo

2)Also is there suppose to be some type of screen material in the sediment bowl?

Thank you, Nick
 

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You seem to have the long generator (not powerhouse.) Original Ford design was for the single bolt to be (ahem) VERY tight and this would be enough to hold the generator belt sufficiently tight.

Real live driving has shown the weakness of the design and most of the Model A supply houses now carry an "auxiliary brace" which can be used on the timing gear bolts to hold the generator in position. I would venture to say that most "drivers" use this brace.

A10152-7099.jpg


As to the sediment bowl, you don't say if you have the glass bowl or the cast iron bowl.
The glass bowl has (usually) a fine brass screen up in the top of the glass bowl held by the glass.

A9155SC-9541.jpg


Likewise the cast iron - a cylindrical screen pinched between the lower screw cap and the interior passage at the top of the housing.

A9155RK-8900.jpg


Some parts houses sell aftermarket filters which fit the glass bowl. My repop glass bowl (back in the late 70s) came with a spongy ring inside (which has now deteriorated and I deleted it.) I have not seen anything aftermarket for the cast iron version but would not be surprised should they exist.

Joe K
 
Excellent Joe, exactly what I needed to know and appreciate the photos (makes things really to understand). I will be ordering the additional brace because the single bolt just doesn't seem like a good design. Oh and I do have the glass bowl but I assume over the years the screen disappeared so I will install another.

Thank you both for your replies. Take care, Nick
 
The long generator has two clamping surfaces, while my powerhouse has only one. My powerhouse stays tight enough with no bracket, and the long generator will also.

If I grab the belt midway from the generator to the water pump I can flex it 1 1/2", and that's tight enough. It only needs to be tight enough for the fan and generator to not slip when the lights are on, if you use a voltage regulator. If you don't use a voltage regulator the generator drag stays the same with or without the lights on, and is controled by the adjustment of the third brush, which sets the output to a fixed amount.
 
Great info again Tom. Tightened the belt the other day by moving the generator and retightening the bolt but started again yesterday, let it run and noticed too much play in the belt again. Think I'll just order the brace kit and be done with it, then on to the next fix (never ending it seems).
 
To add to this, if the belt is too tight you will wear out the bearings in the water pump quicker. Which belt are you using and how well does it fit in the grooves in the pulleys? If it's too wide it could be wearing itself into the groove instead of riding in it. Also, tight mean TIGHT for the bolt not snug.
 
As for the sediment bowl using a the glass you can also us a NAPA 3039 Gold Filter. Looks like a top hat and you install it "upside down " with the "brim" on top. Very fine paper filter.
 
I'm with Cape Codder. Use a filter in the bowl. An inline fuel filter on a model A is like a good lookin young thang with a stud in the side of her nose...imho
 
i also use the glass bowl filter in conjunction with the pencil filter in the tank...

as far as the belt its supossed to have some deflection in it and there shouldnt be a need for the bracket.. i see the bracket used on alternators as those belts need to be more snug.
make sure you have the lockwasher under the nut and tighten the bolt real good with a socket and extension hold the bolt head with a box wrench.
 
You can put the brace on if you want, but as mentioned, it's not needed. There's something not right, because the one jolt holds fine on a generator.
 
There is nothing wrong with Henry's design. If the Genny is mounted correctly and you do as Tom says, you will not have a problem. A generator belt with our water pumps should be more loose than we are used to seeing on modern cars with Alternators. The belt may also be an issue as REDMODELT states. Years ago I bought the bracket with the same assumption that it was needed and discovered otherwise.
Enjoy learning about your A from the Barn.
 
I am not much on piercings, but I don't mind those little studs in the nose if the girl is pretty enough. I think the in-line fuel filters look much worse. ;-)
 
Is the nut supposed to be castillated. The lock washer should work well with either nut, just remember no cotter required with the correct bolt.
Check for good alignment of the fan belt. flat washers can be used to reposition the generator to get the best alignment.
bob
 
ctlikon0712 said:
There is nothing wrong with Henry's design. If the Genny is mounted correctly and you do as Tom says, you will not have a problem. A generator belt with our water pumps should be more loose than we are used to seeing on modern cars with Alternators. The belt may also be an issue as REDMODELT states. Years ago I bought the bracket with the same assumption that it was needed and discovered otherwise.
Enjoy learning about your A from the Barn.
Click to expand...

Heh. I opined a need for the bracket - but have never bought the bracket myself.

Although there are differences in belt "tenacity" as REDMODELT indicates.

The belt that came with the motor were section "A" - small but sit quite low in the grooves - and seem to have a lot of grab. After the rebuild, I tried to get closer to design and bought a "B" section belt (which is what the Model A requires)

At this point from my auto parts store I had the choice of a solid belt or a "cogged" belt. Fearing issue with the relatively stiff solid B belt, I chose the non-original cogged belt. This worked pretty well (the cogs allow it to bend easily and seemingly get a good grip) but the cogs always hit me in the eye.

This where I stand now - and two non-cogged B belts from Tam's waiting for testing.

Joe Tambolello (Tam's) helped me pick out the belt required. He went through a litany of questions: Do you have a small diameter pulley on the generator? (no) Do you have a powerhouse? (no, not then) Do you have high output or halogen headlights? (50-30 so not really)

"This is the one you want" he says handing me a belt. "You'll need to play a game and remove the generator pulley to get it on but this one will work best - and be the right length."

This is where we stand - it fits great including his instruction - generator is about "mid-swivel." And the B section belt seems more flexible than the storebought solid B belt - but fits correctly in the groove.

I have yet to try this but I am confident it's the right belt - or Tam will make it right.

And no plans in my future to include the bracket.

Joe K
 
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