Gear Shift Lever

[Phred]

The attached gearshift lever was on a Model B Ford transmission that I am installing in my '28 Phaeton. At first I thought I would like the swoopiness of the lever, but after installation it hits the seat cushion in first and third gear and is a bit tall for my preference. I now would like a straighter and shorter lever.

1) What body style and year(s) is the current lever from?

2) What style/year levers might meet my shorter/straighter desires? I'd rather not try to rework the existing swoopy lever.

Thanks in advance for any input.
Peace, Phred

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

That looks like a stock '35 Ford pass car/light commercial Swan neck shift lever to me

 

[Lawson Cox]

I agree with John.

 

[cas3]

33-34 lever is what you want

 

[svm99]

As others have said, yours is a '35..................you might try a '33/'34 which is straight. Not sure about clearance though.

 

[Tinker]

I'd hate to say that you can cold bend that, it's pretty cool. I'd look at something different, as mentioned, to bend up or cut and weld. It's just metal.


.

 

[PeteVS]

There are two designs of the shift lever innards. The older (and I'm not sure of the years but Bruce would have known) was used with the shorter "leaning back" top casting and the newer design was used with the taller "straight up" top casting. The pivot on the shift lever was moved up with the later design resulting in a shorter travel of the shift lever. Might this be a part of your problem?

 

[Tinker]

I don't think levers were ever cast. Forged. I could be wrong.

Yes Bruce did/does know.
.

 

[DavidG]

The pre-'36 shift levers won't function in a post-'35 shift lever housing and post-'35 shift lever won't fit in a pre-'36 shift lever housing.

 

[cas3]

i would...determine how far forward you want it by measuring from the dash in 2nd or reverse, then clamp it in the vise , lay a carpenters square on top of the vise and mark with tape at the edge of the vise when the square is at the point where the lever needs to go, then heat the lever at the bottom just above the ball so as not to change the swoop, and bend it until it is at your square. done. i would have a straight one too if you wish

 

[DavidG]

With respect, I believe he indicated that his issue is in 1st and 3rd, not 2nd and reverse.

 

[cas3]

correct, 1&3 hit the seat, so my thought is to measure clearance to the dash so as to get it off the seat. since its in a non stock use, the swoopy lever may not work period, however i would start by measuring clearance with R&2

 

[Phred]

Thanks to all.
I'm going to find a 32 - 34 straight lever as a starting point.

Summary of what I've learned: 32 - 35 shift towers "leaned back, later towers were "upright". 32 - 34 levers were straight, 35 levers were swan shaped. Levers do not interchange between 32-35 towers and later towers.

Peace, Phred

 

[DavidG]

Phred,

One further refinement is that only early '32 shift levers are straight (with an elbow near the bottom); most '32 levers have a gentle curve to them before becoming straight as shown in the photo below..

 

[PeteVS]

I think that later pick ups with floor shift had "straight" shift levers that worked in the later straight up shift towers. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

I think that later pick ups with floor shift had "straight" shift levers that worked in the later straight up shift towers. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Yes they did. The levers at top on first and fourth picture are from pu trucks.....

 

[PeteVS]

It appears that the difference between the early and late designs is that the shorter (internals) required a large angular motion to move the first / reverse sliding gear full travel. The longer internals required less angular motion with a shorter throw and the handle.