Gauge question

Tudorp

Tudorp

Member
I am going to add an oil pressure gauge to my 53. I know oil pressure is a hot topic on the 239. My stock pressure gauge shows no pressure at all. I am confident I have at least some pressure because the flatty runs great and no "no oil pressure" type of noises. However, that said, have always been a gauge watcher on my cars, and like to "know" what is going on in there. I have a mechanical gauge I plan to put in. Anybody running a mechanical gauge on their V8? Are they accurate enough to at least read "some" pressure ya think? Where would the best place be to add the oil line to to get the best reading with a mechanical gauge?

That said, My 53 has all new wiring harness, and converted to 12V -ground. May be a reason the original gauge doesn't seem to work. It was converted and wired before I got it, but being a former aircraft electrician like things done right as far as that goes, and the electrical harness and wiring was done pretty nice, and much like I would have done myself. But just wondering if the original oil indication just don't like the updated electrical system, so want to go with a mechanical unit.
 
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Check to see if voltage drop units were wired into the harness between the gauges and the ignition switch. If not, the 6 volt gauges will not function properly.
 
I don't believe so. Which may very well be the issue. The only gauge that works is the amp gauge, but then again it operates on amperage not voltage so the change wouldn't effect that gauge. The temp gauge doesn't work either. So odds are either they wern't re-connected after the wiring upgrade, or the voltage drop resisters aren't installed. I have yet to pull the instrument cluster and pretty sure that is what I'll find when I do that this spring.

Oh.. The gas gauge works fine too. But again, I'll see more what was done back there when I pull the cluster.
 
Don't know if info about my 47 is relevant but, if it is, my gauge was reading so low I got a little worried so took the sender off and put a mechanical gauge in its place to check. Pressure was just fine. Have ordered a new sender so my stock gauge will work but will also keep the mechanical gauge hooked up (via a T under the stock sender) and in my glove box to check if I ever have doubts about the stock gauge. I'm only getting a couple of years out of those stock senders before they're done and have to replace them.

Here's how my cheap SunPro mechanical gauge is currently set up temporarily: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68156

When I get the new sender I'll remove the temporary mechanical fitting that's currently in its place, screw this nipple and T into that place in the block, screw the mechanical fitting into the side of it, and the new sender into the top. The fittings are brass 1/4" NPT fittings I picked up at Home Depot.

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If this isn't relevant let me know and I'll delete it.
 
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Old Henry said:
Don't know if info about my 47 is relevant but, if it is, my gauge was reading so low I got a little worried so took the sender off and put a mechanical gauge in its place to check. Pressure was just fine. Have ordered a new sender so my stock gauge will work but will also keep the mechanical gauge hooked up (via a T under the stock sender) and in my glove box to check if I ever have doubts about the stock gauge. I'm only getting a few years out of those stock senders before they're done and have to replace them.

Here's how my cheap SunPro mechanical gauge is currently set up temporarily: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68156

When I get the new sender I'll remove the temporary mechanical fitting that's currently in its place, screw this nipple and T into that place in the block, screw the mechanical fitting into the side of it, and the new sender into the top. The fittings are brass 1/4" NPT fittings I picked up at Home Depot.



If this isn't relevant let me know and I'll delete it.
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Sure it's relevant. I think I'm going to T them like that myself in hopes to get my original gauge working as well. I'll probably just keep both gauges since I do like to watch gauges. A redundant one woulnd't hurt for comparison sake. Thanks.
 
Tudorp said:
Sure it's relevant. I think I'm going to T them like that myself in hopes to get my original gauge working as well. I'll probably just keep both gauges since I do like to watch gauges. A redundant one woulnd't hurt for comparison sake. Thanks.
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I have done the same thing with my water temperature gauges - kept the original reading the right head and have a mechanical one in the glove box reading the left head. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=88541
 
The rear driver's side of the block has the stock oil filter line, plus it has a second hole next to that line with a plug in it. If you can get in there to remove the plug, it makes a good place to install a mechanical gauge line.
 
The gauges as they are in the dash, do the needles point up if so you change to the gauge units from 1958 up Ford trucks which are 12V and work very good. My 1948 is that way now, fuel and oil senders no problem now. ( they will look original) Laurie
 
First let's see what the real pressure is before you start a lot of wiring and plumbing changes. This is easy and will tell you if you have a gauge problem or pressure problem.
Remove the current sender and screw in a 5 or 6 inch pipe nipple and coupling and screw your mechanical gauge in the coupling. John

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If this is what you are saying as pointing up, these are this is the gauge cluster.
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My current electric sender is mounted on the fitting of the oil filter can. I'm assuming a better reading would be down on the block and would give a better reading at the mains?

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All pressure is the same on the pressure side. So, it wouldn't be any different down on the block at the other end of the filter tube as it is up by the filter.

Your oil sender up by the filter is sure a lot more accessible than mine is down on the block (spent 8 hours last weekend trying to get mine off and finally just tore it apart to get it off). Glad to see some improvement after '47.
 
Well. That would make sense.. ;). I was thinking less travel, less chance of loosing pressure, but I reckon that wouldn't matter if all the fittings were not leaking.. Where the current sender is, is on that port, just up the pipe and mounted on the filter can, so I guess that would be fine, and easier to get to.
I'll just put it there where the electric unit is at currently then. I might add a "T" and just replace the sending unit and use both the mechanical and the electric assuming the electric gauge is ok. I'll just put in the mechanical and then work out the issue with the electric. At least I will have something to look at while I mess with the original gauges.



Old Henry said:
All pressure is the same on the pressure side. So, it wouldn't be any different down on the block at the other end of the filter tube as it is up by the filter.
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Now I may well be venturing out where I don't belong because my car is '47 but that oil pressure sending unit on yours looks like the one for idiot light only, not for a gauge. Just looking at Mac's listing for such that's what it looks like to me. Looks like the gauge sending unit should be like mine, the bigger fatter round one. Take a look and see what you think: http://macsautoparts.com/search.asp...ake=Ford&ss=oil+pressure+sending+unit&x=0&y=0

Maybe if you put the right sender on the gauge would work fine. :)
 
Good point, and you may very well be right. I have no idea as that was on it when I bought the car. I bought the car just before winter and only drove it a couple hundred miles before putting it away for the winter (I live in Michigan). So I hadn't had time to do much with it on my own yet. But, that is a good observation, and you might be right, which would account for the gauge not working. I'm going to put the mechanical one on it for now, and look into that a little more, or better yet, just buy the correct one to start with so I'll take that out of the loop. Like I mentioned, I may just run both anyway for redundancy.

That said, I'll continue my inquiries here in lue of starting a new one since it also concerns gauges. Myself being new to flathead V8, I know the left and right bank are separate. Water temp gauges also isn't working. Would it be worth while to run two temp gauges, one for each bank? Or does the one just take the water temp that is circulating. Two separate gauges might show that both banks are close and better to see if one bank runs hotter than the other? Or would that just be over kill?

Old Henry said:
Now I may well be venturing out where I don't belong because my car is '47 but that oil pressure sending unit on yours looks like the one for idiot light only, not for a gauge. Just looking at Mac's listing for such that's what it looks like to me. Looks like the gauge sending unit should be like mine, the bigger fatter round one. Take a look and see what you think: http://macsautoparts.com/search.asp...ake=Ford&ss=oil+pressure+sending+unit&x=0&y=0

Maybe if you put the right sender on the gauge would work fine. :)
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Tudorp said:
Would it be worth while to run two temp gauges, one for each bank? Or does the one just take the water temp that is circulating. Two separate gauges might show that both banks are close and better to see if one bank runs hotter than the other? Or would that just be over kill?
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See my post # 6. That's what I did to monitor the temperature of both heads.
 
Good idea. I have used the glove box to hide all sorts of upgrades in my old cars over the years, including updated fuse blocks, modern stereos etc. never put any gauges in one yet, but was thinking I might add a bank of upgraded gauges in there. You just confirmed my thoughts on that ;). Thats where I was thinking on putting the mechanical oil pressure gauge. Might just put a 3 gauge mount in there with the oil pressure, and two matching temp gauges. Thanks again.


Old Henry said:
See my post # 6. That's what I did to monitor the temperature of both heads.
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On that note, are the water systems on each bank completely isolated? Or are they mixed using the same veins in the radiator? I assume the water is blended in the radiator tanks, so one bank running hot will effect the water temp on the other side to some degree. Am I correct in that assumption?
 
Tudorp said:
On that note, are the water systems on each bank completely isolated? Or are they mixed using the same veins in the radiator? I assume the water is blended in the radiator tanks, so one bank running hot will effect the water temp on the other side to some degree. Am I correct in that assumption?
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Yes. The water is combined in the radiator and leaves the radiator at the bottom and enters the engine at the same temperature on both sides. The temperature differences, if any, are at the top of the engine and heads where the water exits to return to the radiator.
 
I agree with Old Henry, it looks like the sender is not the right one. From the picture it looks like you are missing the restrictor for the oil filter. If the restrictor is missing it will rob oil from getting to the rest of the engine. The restrictor is a fitting with a .060 hole in it to slow the amount oil going to the filter and forcing more oil to the engine.
 
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