Gaskets

If your not building for fine point the use of a quality sealant with off the shelf gaskets works well,permatex ultra gray,threebond,ect.
 
I use late '31 2 piece copper gaskets, no sealant. And manifold glands when the manifold isn't drooping. I torque the nuts to 30 ft/lb and recheck after a couple of heat cycles.

Edit; Like the ones redmodelt links to.
 
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I've seen folks recommend copper gaskets in general as being (a) more forgiving, in the sense that the copper will adapt to surface imperfections better, and (b) more re-usable, in the sense that you can put the piece on and off multiple times without wearing out the gasket. I use the early 2-piece copper gaskets.
 
Had problems with an inexpensive gasket kit. The exhaust gasket was made out of something stiff, hard, almost brittle, was tan/light brown. Only lasted 25 miles before it blew a hole through it . Replaced with copper and OK. Took a picture, sorry can not find it
 
My engine builder used the one piece steel gasket. Seems to work well, that's what was on the old engine for years, not problems. Only gaskets I've heard people have trouble with are the ones 30 closed cab is talking about I think although I've always seen them in green.
 
Jerry in Shasta,
Thanks for the heads up on the Remflex gaskets. We use them on all the small block Ford
Stroker motors we build and send out.
Since we've been using them we've had no header leaks....
Summit racing has the 3040 gaskets for $29.11

Thanks again.
 
redmodelt said:
Along with gland rings.
Click to expand...


Gland rings are very important to keep the gaskets from failing.


Do a trial fit first with just the gland rings to be sure the manifold will seat up to the block.


Some times, the gland rings need to be made a little thinner so the manifold will fit up to the block.


My experience,


Chris W.
 
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