Gaskets and sealants

Baypac

Baypac

Member
I have reviewed almost everything I could find on the forum, and came up with the following thoughts regarding gasket sealants

Head Gasket--Grey composition gasket. Manufactured by the "Best" gasket company with Permatex Copper Coat spray. (2 or 3 coats)

Manifold gasket--1931 Copper with no sealant

water pump--paper gasket with Permatex High tack All Purpose

water outlet--paper gasket with Permatex High tack All Purpose

Some posts say no sealant on the water pump and outlet, but a little sealant makes me feel more confident.

Comments please. Thanks
 
I have had to use Permatex #2 on the cylinder head water outlet and pump gasket. I tries both dry but had leaks.
 
I agree with your list except for the paper water outlet. Either use the copper or just silicone. Paper is a good way to break the ears.
 
I personally like this recommendation. Clean all Surfaces, install new studs with anti seize on the threads, slip gasket over the studs, use a Q-tip to apply a tad of blue silicone sealant around the base of the studs, set head over studs and torque in three steps, 35, 45 and 55 foot pounds. Fill with coolant, oil, and warm engine and re-torque. Check torque a few time until there is no movement of nut or stud.
On the water neck apply a thin coat of silicone without a gasket. If you insist on a gasket use the old trick of a paper match just outside of the studs and torque evenly. We have done several like that with no ill effects.
 
Tom Endy, in his excellent articles, uses Indian Head on the diff with the gaskets.


I think we can get Indian Head from Lithuania via ebay ...
 
First make sure all surfaces are clean and flat.
Water outlet Ultra Black silicone - no gasket
Water inlet Ultra Black silicone - no gasket
Head gasket Best 573 - no sealant clean and dry. I use the same method as daveymc29, except Ultra Black at the base of the stud.
Main bearing caps small thin bead at the outer edges of rear main, ultra black on head of main bearing bolt and nuts that are exposed on outside of block.
Water pump Permatex high tack with a gasket.
Oil Pan cork with a dab of Ultra Black in the corners, Ultra Black under head of bolts that pass through block front and rear including some blocks that have flywheel housing threaded holes all the way through the casting.
Intake and exhaust manifolds copper clad gaskets no sealant.
Valve cover and oil pipe dry cork gasket on cover light blue gasket on oil return pipe no sealant.
 
denniskliesen said:
First make sure all surfaces are clean and flat.
Water outlet Ultra Black silicone - no gasket
Water inlet Ultra Black silicone - no gasket
Head gasket Best 573 - no sealant clean and dry. I use the same method as daveymc29, except Ultra Black at the base of the stud.
Main bearing caps small thin bead at the outer edges of rear main, ultra black on head of main bearing bolt and nuts that are exposed on outside of block.
Water pump Permatex high tack with a gasket.
Oil Pan cork with a dab of Ultra Black in the corners, Ultra Black under head of bolts that pass through block front and rear including some blocks that have flywheel housing threaded holes all the way through the casting.
Intake and exhaust manifolds copper clad gaskets no sealant.
Valve cover and oil pipe dry cork gasket on cover light blue gasket on oil return pipe no sealant.
Click to expand...

Hi Dennis,

What does the silicone at the base of the studs do?

Thanks,
 
Russ/40 said:
NO Paper gasket on the water outlet!!!!!!! Copper or RTV only
Click to expand...

I have only redone three engines, and always used a paper gasket and Permatex. Never broke an ear off, but based on what I read here, I was lucky. I will use RTV on the outlet and no gasket.
 
GPierce said:
Why does paper cause the ear to break?
Click to expand...

It allows the casting to flex on the outside of the head stud. Cast iron doesn't bend so the casting breaks at the bolt hole.

If you put a paper match at the end of the casting on each side, then it provides enough support so the casting doesn't flex and the ear doesn't break off.

Once the head is fully torqued, you can cut off the match with a razor blade.

This time, I am going to try silicone only. If it leaks, it will not be a big deal to take it off and install a gasket.

Jack
 
Baypac said:
Hi Dennis,

What does the silicone at the base of the studs do?

Thanks,
Click to expand...

It seals from water leaking up between the stud and head and also water from coming out from the threads between the stud and nut. If you don't believe water can leak between the stud and nut, you should have been at the repair tent at the MAFCA convention this year. I was watching it and another bystander named Les saw it. We both suggested sealing the stud to stop the leak. I always have a small can of Permatex High Tack and a tube of Ultra Black in my tool bag in my Model A. Seems like I never need it but others do.
 
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