Gasket sealer on 292 timing cover question.

[37 Coupe]

Should a sealer like Permatex be used on timing cover itself but not on block surface where it could interfere with the factory groove. Do you need to use a certain type of sealer since a lot of surface and time could be a factor, like oil pan front and cover itself so maybe one of the hi tack Permatex would be troublesome? I always liked the black Form -A -Gasket in a tube but think it is brush on now. Any suggestions?

 

[KULTULZ]

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[KULTULZ]

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... is the blue rtv also what you use on the threads to seal the holes that go into coolant?

 

[paul2748]

I use RTV on both sides of the gasket for the front cover. . The same with the pan gasket (or the partial pan gasket). Very thin coat

 

[37 Coupe]

If you removed the front cover just for a timing set change, this will be the correct repair. There used to be a partial pan gasket in the timing cover seal kit but BLACK GLUE is the modern way to go about it. Put a bead(s) where the cover will meet the oil pan (bottom) and then a continuous bead around the front of the pan rail.

Put them together, torque and let setup for a while.

It might be wise to use the balancer to center the front seal on the crank snout before final torque. Is this the same OP that was asking about the oil slinger?

Did that make sense?

Yes, I got the correct oil slinger and almost ready to go. Also yes I have the partial oil pan cork gasket.Guess I could use the damper to align I was actually gonna turn and bore a guide piece like Ford used to align .

 

[paul2748]

If the pan is still attached, there shouldn't be problem with alignment ??? Assuming the gasket is the same thickness.

Yes, I got the correct oil slinger and almost ready to go. Also yes I have the partial oil pan cork gasket.Guess I could use the damper to align I was actually gonna turn and bore a guide piece like Ford used to align .

 

[KULTULZ]

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[KULTULZ]

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[KULTULZ]

Yes, I got the correct oil slinger ...

Did you get the proper answer on THE OTHER FORUM as to using a slinger on a pre-1956 engine?

 

[37 Coupe]

Did you get the proper answer on THE OTHER FORUM as to using a slinger on a pre-1956 engine?

Yes.thank you .

 

[KULTULZ]

yes.thank you.

thanx!

 

[37 Coupe]

And I assume it was OK to use? Any info why it was left out?

According to my info from Ted Eaton mine was probably like a lot of engines where it was mistakingly left out by a rebuilder after factory assembly and they were installed on 1955 292 engines. Still could never find it in my NOV 1954 parts book though.

 

[Daves55Sedan]

I use RTV on both sides of the gasket for the front cover. . The same with the pan gasket (or the partial pan gasket). Very thin coat

I have always done the same (Blue RTV). The timing cover paper gasket is very thin anyway.
I would access a clean flat work surface and lay the paper gasket on it. Squirt some RTV out of the tube on the gasket and smear it on with my finger. Pick it up and stick the gasket on the engine block (there are alignment pins that will hold it in place, so it wont slide out of alignment). Then, coat the gasket surface on the back of the timing cover and smear it on flat. I use a small piece of cardboard to scrape away any excess I don't want.
Same for pan gasket but I use a lot more Blue RTV. I snug the bolts down evenly till the excess RTV starts getting squeezed out, then let the RTV dry overnight. Next morning I go out and tighten down all the pan bolts, then cut off the RTV that got squeezed out with a box-cutter blade.
Never any leaks.

 

[KULTULZ]

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[37 Coupe]

I have always done the same (Blue RTV). The timing cover paper gasket is very thin anyway.
I would access a clean flat work surface and lay the paper gasket on it. Squirt some RTV out of the tube on the gasket and smear it on with my finger. Pick it up and stick the gasket on the engine block (there are alignment pins that will hold it in place, so it wont slide out of alignment). Then, coat the gasket surface on the back of the timing cover and smear it on flat. I use a small piece of cardboard to scrape away any excess I don't want.
Same for pan gasket but I use a lot more Blue RTV. I snug the bolts down evenly till the excess RTV starts getting squeezed out, then let the RTV dry overnight. Next morning I go out and tighten down all the pan bolts, then cut off the RTV that got squeezed out with a box-cutter blade.
Never any leaks.

Is the blue RTV also what you use on the threads to seal the holes that go into coolant? So it sounds like the blue RTV gives you more time to snug everything down moreso than the HiTack and Formagasket. Another question if you wait overnight to snug or torque down bolts does water pump need to be mounted for those four bolts within that time frame or anytime after that?

 

[5851a]

Kind of like asking about oil. Everyone uses what seems to work the best for them. I'm not a fan of the silicone type stuff. Couple dabs of contact cement on a hard to hold gasket, and a tiny line of the rtv where specified on later model engines. Old school I know, Permatex makes a thread sealant for bolts that pass into water jackets. They do some amazing things with new sealants now. Most gasket set come with do's and don'ts.

 

[paul2748]

I use the high temp,orange rtv. As I mentioned use very sparingly as you don't want any to get inside the engine when tightened down.

 

[Daves55Sedan]

As far as the bolt threads that protrude into the water jacket, I have always dabbed a bit of pipe dope on the threads. When you screw the bolt in, the dope turns around and covers the thread all around and seals from leaking. No need to get crazy with it.
The orange Hi-temp RTV is good too for mounting of the timing cover, but not necessary if you can get the cheaper Blue RTV. I have used the orange stuff only on intake manifold heat riser passages on both side of gasket (again just smearing a little on since you don't want a bunch squeezing into the passage).
I have always mounted water pump at same time as the timing cover, installing all the bolts for both, snugging them down, but not real tight at first. After the RTV gets hardened, I tighten all the bolts down including water pump bolts. Never a water leak or oil seepage.

 

[dmsfrr]

... the threads to seal the holes that go into coolant? ...

Photo example. There are two timing cover bolt holes open into the water jacket, if the three Y-blocks I have are a good indication. .. ('55 292, '57 312 and '58 312)