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Bubsyouruncle

Senior Member
I have an older machine. 1947. Everything was built using "rubbers" that were designed for gasoline. Since I live in northern Illinois I am stuck with using 10% ethanol.

Up until a short time ago ( a month) things worked ok. Kinda sorta.

Now, although the gas tank is full and the glass bulb on the fuel pump is full, the carburetor tank is empty. I think. It looks dry on the inside of the carb.

Anyway, pumping does not produce spray. If I pour a little gas in the carb she starts right up and then quits.

My take on problems:

1) Diaphragm in the fuel pump has failed. Because it can't deal with ethanol.

2) "rubber" seat in the carb has swollen and seized the needle valve, preventing fuel flow from the pump to the carb. If it has a rubber seat. And can't deal with ethanol.

3) the ancient Whitehead fuel line from pipe to pump has swelled inside to block fuel flow. Because it can't deal with ethanol.

4) Tank to fuel pump ok.
 
they make ethanol safe fuel hose that will solve some of your problems. I also hear carb repair kits are available that are ethanol safe.
 
As Fordor41 mentioned, you need to replace all the soft lines and carb components that aren't compatible with current fuel realities. Dennis Carpenter, Napa, and others have what you need to get road worthy. A carb rebuild kit, a new / rebuilt fuel pump, and some hoses ought to do ya.
 
thankfully, these old Fords don't need much to eliminate all rubber bases parts in the fuel system.
New fuel hose (firewall line to pump) from Bob Shrewman (sp?)
New pump diaphragm ,Ken CT or equivalent
Leather accelerator pump cup (should have one already)
Steel needle valve like it had originally
You are done! that's it.
My opinion
 
Any ethonal mix gas are poison to rubber parts and absorb way more water too. Find a source for ethonal free. If can't find one do you have a small private airport around? Use their navgas 50/50 with garbage Ethonol gas will improve significantly.
 
Floyd said:
thankfully, these old Fords don't need much to eliminate all rubber bases parts in the fuel system.
New fuel hose (firewall line to pump) from Bob Shrewman (sp?)
New pump diaphragm ,Ken CT or equivalent
Leather accelerator pump cup (should have one already)
Steel needle valve like it had originally
You are done! that's it.
My opinion
Click to expand...


And don't forget the power valve if a Ford/Holley 94 type carb/ One from Charlie NY or Daytona in Florida is best.

Sal
 
Kruzn40 said:
I use Sta-Bil in the tanks of my two old cars that don't get driven much and in my 2 and 4 cycle small engines. Never had an ethanol related problem.

https://www.goldeagle.com/tips-tools/considering-ethanol-free-gas-try-ethanol-treatment-instead
Click to expand...

I have used fuel treatments for years and in the last 10, I still have had to replace or re-build 5 carburetors in my small outdoor equipment engines. Now I use only ethanol free gasoline in my old cars and small engines. This gasoline costs me more per gallon but to me it is well worth it.
 
I just filled the tank on my daily driver with non-ethanol regular - $2.35 a gal. That's about a .30 premium over corn gas. Mid grade non ethanol here is $2.55 and premium is $2.75 a gallon these days.
 
Beware of using aviation 100LL in flatheads. 100LL still has 4x more lead than the now almost unavailable 80 octane avgas. Even in low compression aircract engines (Lycoming O-360, 180HP) if one does not lean the carb mixture immediately after start, the lead will foul plugs right away. I thought that my '85 Vette would do well with AvGas 100LL, but NO ruined a very costly set of plugs. See:
http://members.localnet.com/~docsteve/av_files/fuel_2.htm
 
Wow!

What a wonderful response to my simple problem.

Pulled the car
b and the pump


today.

Pump is good.

Fuel line is good.

Carb, not so good.



When removed, the pin valve was stuck in the seat. The seat is brass (?), but the tip of the valve is rubber. It was not difficult to remove, but to open the valve would require the fuel pump to put psi on a rather small area.

Answer to my problem perhaps?

My tablet provides challenges
 
Maybe switch to Grosse type float valve. They are a direct replacement. Grosse uses a steel ball instead of a triangular shaft with a tip. Some claim they do not seal as well, particularly with vibration. I have had no such problems on the 3 97's on my flathead, but I keep the pressure under 2.5 lb.

Others recommend the viton tipped needle valves as being impervious to alcohol.
 
If you have older parts carbs around try cleaning up one of the older steel tipped valve assemblies. I don't use rubber tipped needles, the old steel jobs work fine.

Mart.
 
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