gas tank resto question

L

lodown2003

Member
removed my gas tank out of my 36 coupe. looks to be in great shape.bottom of tank was undercoated pretty heavy. have the outside of tank stripped to bare metal.seems like a lot of loose sedement in bottom of tank. anyone out there know of a good way to remove it. i see eastwood has some products .i would like to put some sort of sealer coating on the inside. would like to keep the origional tank instead of an after market one
 
Try the fuel tank repair kit from POR-15:

http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/FTRK/

It is a multi-step process that starts with a tank cleaner which is then repeated in the second step. The third step is an acid etch to prep the metal for coating. The final step is the coating step.

I've used the kit on three tanks with good results. It takes about a day to do a tank, and the kit costs about $70.

Tom
 
I have also done 3 tanks with POR15 & have had good results. I probably don't need to say this, but follow the directions very closely.
Gary.
 
Insert a length of chain and/or some sharp wood screws and agitate the tank thoroughly in order for the stuff to scrape the inside surface to clean it. Some strong detergent may help also. Flush thoroughly. Repeat as needed. Coat or paint the outside only. Reinstall. John
 
Use Marine Clean on the inside, the longer you leave it in, the cleaner the inside gets. Then use pool acid to clean the rust out ....then do the POR-15 process. MOST IMPORTANT...this is not a quick process. Several days are needed for each chemical to work properly. Allowing the tank to dry out... COMPLETELY.... before you put the POR-15 sealer. Leave it in the hot sun for at least 3 days (bring it in at night). Once the sealer in leave it in the sun for a few days for it to dry.
 
Found out that if you close off the tank opening after pouring the chemicals, place the tank in a old tire it's a easier to roll the tank round rather than trying to shake it.
 
I doubt if you can get a good coating on the inside because of the two baffles going from top to btm and all the way across,..I cut mine In to at the seam,on top ,had it blasted then coated before welding back,after welding I poured some sealer in I and let sealer cover welded seam on one side next day did te same for 4days,then let set for a few days,did a test and no leaks, have done two this wAy.
 
lodown2003 said:
removed my gas tank out of my 36 coupe. looks to be in great shape.bottom of tank was undercoated pretty heavy. have the outside of tank stripped to bare metal.seems like a lot of loose sedement in bottom of tank. anyone out there know of a good way to remove it. i see eastwood has some products .i would like to put some sort of sealer coating on the inside. would like to keep the origional tank instead of an after market one
Click to expand...

Since you live in Oregon you might consider having it re-tinned by these guy's.... look under services, they do gas tanks also, I know of people having this done with excelent results, I do not know the cost. here is the link..

http://www.retinners.com/
 
I did my 33 tank recently, but I got a bit mediaevil on it's ***. I cut the top right out of it, scraped it clean inside, and welded the top back on.

It worked for me.

Mart.
 
I used my lathe to make a shaker.
About a 1" or 2" stroke crankpin, some tubafors, bungee cords.
Start out at slow speed and go from there.
I put gravel in it for abrasive. Rinse well with water.
Works like a charm.
 
32phil said:
MOST IMPORTANT...this is not a quick process. Several days are needed for each chemical to work properly. Allowing the tank to dry out... COMPLETELY.... before you put the POR-15 sealer.
Click to expand...

Yes, getting the inside totally dry is very important.

What I do is stand the tank up on end with the filler spout pointing down. I then thread a shop vacuum hose in through the sender hole with the hose going up towards the top (end opposite the filler hole). I lash a heat gun to the filler tube and turn the heat gun and shop vacuum on.

That sends hot air into the bottom where it flows up to the top and out through the shop vacuum hose.

Once it looks dry inside, I let it run for the same time again just to make sure. Two to three hours seems typical for the total time for the drying cycle.

Tom
 
I have no intention of starting a fight here, so no insult intended. I don't see the need to cut a tank open. If given enough time* the proper chemicals will do the job. As far as coating the inside, the POR-15 sealer is thin enough to splash around and coat the whole inside area. Again...time* ...is the most important investment you can make. Give the chemicals enough time* ....let it dry out sufficiently(more *) and slosh the sealer around ...a lot(more time*). Then give it enough time* to dry before you put gas in it. Did I mention take your time* ?
 
john worden said:
Insert a length of chain and/or some sharp wood screws and agitate the tank thoroughly in order for the stuff to scrape the inside surface to clean it. Some strong detergent may help also. Flush thoroughly. Repeat as needed. Coat or paint the outside only. Reinstall. John
Click to expand...

above what the local radiator shop guy does and then he hot tanks them for 2 days .....i'vd had good results with-out replacing tanks---gump:)
 
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