Gas Tank Leak

reek29

reek29

Member
Merry Christmas, everyone!
I have a problem I was hoping I cold get some help with. On my '29, I have a very small gas leak at the steering column bracket. Not enough yet to be wet, but there is staining on the bottom of the tank and when I rub it with my fingers, I can smell gas. I know that there is sealer on the market, but I don't know if I should use it or not. Anybody have any thoughts on what I need to do?
Thanks for your help,
Rick
 
Rick, what have you got to lose by using the sealer? I have heard of folks using a vacuum cleaner to create a vacuum on the tank and then paint the sealer on the outside of the leak which the vacuum sucks the sealer into the void. My fear is if the gasoline vapors where to be ignited by the vacuum cleaner motor, things may get warm for a few seconds.

.
 
Thanks, Brent. can you recommend a sealer? I use gas from any nearby gas stations and use MMO. Just don't know what the ethanol will do.
So you think just smear or brush the sealer around the bracket? By the way, there is no visible crack....very small seep.
Thanks,
Rick
 
I experienced much the same situation that you have described.

First, I installed the support bracket that mounts under the dash of the car, thus relieving the vibration and stress from the original bracket.

I then cleaned the bracket area down to bare metal using a dremal with wire brush and sandpaper.

This was followed by a layer of Marine Tex - Gray epoxy applied around the edge of the bracket and over the rivits or face of the bracket.

This procedure has worked well so far although I do keep an eye on it.

I know that this is not the correct method of fixing this problem. I am not recommending anyone use this method. It is a shortcut method that fortunately has worked well for me until I can have it fixed in a more substantial manner.
 
Re: Gas Tank Leak/ wet application

Try Seal-All, available at Auto-Zone, Advance Auto Parts, Pep Boys.
This can be applied to a wet, leaking surface.
> It is packaged in a bright yellow tube with red lettering.
Let us know what works for you.

Doug
 
Re: Gas Tank Leak--be careful with using a vacuum cleaner for your vacuum source

I wonder what happens when the gas fumes that you are sucking out of the gas tank to create a vacuum get near the brushes or commutator on the vacuum cleaner motor?

BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM

Dennis L Oberer
 
Buck Edwards of Bellingham, WA was using a Kenmore cannister vacuum on his model A gas tank to get the last bit of dirt out of the tank. It sounded like a good idea until the vacuum blew up and launched its self across the street like a rocket. I learn quickly by watching my friends.
 
I also have a 29. I was in luck in that I found out the tank was leaking before I had everything assembled. I pulled the tank out again, used one of the kits available from the vendors which had cleaner, neutralizer and the sealer that you put inside the tank. Mine did not leak at the steering column but rather someone years ago had shot a hole in the side of the tank about an inch below the bottom of the tank. I tried to patch this hole (which leaked gas) by brazing, soldering and welding but nothing worked completely. So I used the sealer kit inside with the tank out of the rig. So far, it has not leaked.

I also put in a 31 bracket to attach the column to the dash. This works great.

Good luck with whatever you do. It sounds like some of the suggestions above may work for your situation at least for a time. But it may come to the time when you need to pull the tank and either solder it or put a sealer inside.
 
Re: Gas Tank Leak -Safe way to pull a vacume

I sure don't like the idea of using a electric powered anything on a gas tank. Why not drain all of the gas that you can then jack up the drivers side. This will get the left over gas away from the problem area. Next tape up the vent holes in the gas tank,then use a hand vacume pump to draw the sealer of choice into the cracks.
Kinda long winded but might work
Tom in IL
 
Gary/IA said:
I experienced much the same situation that you have described.

First, I installed the support bracket that mounts under the dash of the car, thus relieving the vibration and stress from the original bracket.

I then cleaned the bracket area down to bare metal using a dremal with wire brush and sandpaper.

This was followed by a layer of Marine Tex - Gray epoxy applied around the edge of the bracket and over the rivits or face of the bracket.

This procedure has worked well so far although I do keep an eye on it.

I know that this is not the correct method of fixing this problem. I am not recommending anyone use this method. It is a shortcut method that fortunately has worked well for me until I can have it fixed in a more substantial manner.
Click to expand...

This is exactly what I did EXCEPT I only hand sanded. Marine Tex works great but I would be concerned about sparks from any electric tool around gas. As Gary noted, use Marine Tex Gray if you decide to go this route
 
all the above methods will work, especially using the 31 steering coloum bracket, it transfers the strain from the tank to the dash, do not reuse the 29 support bracket, i know its a lot of work, but pull the tank and have it cleaned and welded, brazed or soldered from the out side, if after its clean and you find the leak, and if its a crack, drill a 1/64" hole at each end of the crack then fix it, the hole at the end of the crack will stop it from traveling any farther on the tank
 
The vacuum method is a great idea that I had never heard of, though I agree that an electric vacuum cleaner is too risky. So why not use the parts cleaner attachment that attaches to your air hose. It creates a low-pressure area near the discharge nozzle and the low pressure port has a smaller hose that vacuums up liquid cleaner solution from a bucket. You could seal this hose to the tank at the shut-off valve where adaptation would be easy. This tool is sold at most parts stores, however, I got one last year that didn't work. Just make sure that it makes a good vacuum before hooking it up to your tank.
 
DONT USE A VACCUUM CLEANER! The electric sparks in the motor will cause an explosion even if the tank is empty. DON'T PUT YOUR MODEL A AND YOURSELF AT RISK. Remove the tank and have repaired.
 
I just finished fixing the same problem, and after fiberglassing didn't work and mighty mender useless, i cleaned the area with acetone, i could see a hairline crack, and JB "welded" it. I sealed it, and have used Marine-tex before and it's great stuff too.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top