Gas Tank Etch and Sealer

29Cabriolet

29Cabriolet

Senior Member
I ran across the Bill Hircsh brand gas tank etch and sealer offered at Tam's (and surely others as well). Wondering if anyone has used this and whether the results were satisfactory or less than satisfactory?

Thanks
 
Do a 'Search' on Ford Barn to find a mountain of information on this question. Trent in Ten-o-Sea has a lot of experience to share, You might start with him.

The real bug-a-boo about this etch/liner stuff is that you MUST remove your gas tank from your car. Not what I wanted or want to do to my already restored and painted car.

I did do this process at the time of restoration (1979-80) but fifteen years later - between the 'sealer' breaking down AND the degraded gasoline that California now mandates - the tank 'sludge' began plugging up my fuel lines, valves, carb, etc. I have since cleared out all of the 'sludge', but now have to deal with the minute rust dust that continues to haunt me. I have again installed a new 'in the tank bottom' line filter to prevent the fine rust particles from plugging up the fuel system. A band-aid I know, but I am not about to disassemble my car to put the new etch/sealer.
 
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DougVieyra said:
Do a 'Search' on Ford Barn to find a mountain of information on this question. Trent in Ten-o-Sea has a lot of experience to share, You might start with him.

The real bug-a-boo about this etch/liner stuff is that you MUST remove your gas tank from your car. Not what I wanted or want to do to my already restored and painted car.

I did do this process at the time of restoration (1979-80) but fifteen years later - between the 'sealer' breaking down AND the degraded gasoline that California now mandates - the tank 'sludge' began plugging up my fuel lines, valves, carb, etc. I have since cleared out all of the 'sludge', but now have to deal with the minute rust dust that continues to haunt me. I have again installed a new 'in the tank bottom' line filter to prevent the fine rust particles from plugging us the fuel system. A band-aid I know, but I am not about to disassemble my car to put the new etch/sealer.
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I've been using Bill's stuff since 1972. When they had 100% gasoline. In 74 when they changed the gasoline the sealer in the tank started to come off. By that time Bill had changed his sealer over to handle the alcohol. Where problems arises now with the sealer is people putting in additives to their gasoline thinking it will help the car run better. Some of these additives has chemicals in it that will attack the sealer.

I've had darn good luck with the new sealer since 75. Not only have I used it in the Model A's but in more modern cars from the 50's 60, and 70's. The hardest to do is the MGA's and MGB's. Where the baffles come all the way down inside the tank and the lowest holes are an inch off the bottom and from the top. Makes it hard to drain properly when coating the inside.

A new MGA gas tank runs around $200 and it cost me around a $100 for cleaning,sealing, and painting.
 
i' M GETTING READY TO USE THE BILL HEIRSH SEALER IN MY 31 ROADSTER. the tank is out of the car , I built an adapter on to my engine stand to rotate the tank 360 degrees . my plan is to have it boiled out dried out and then use the sealer. I heard all good reviews about it so here goes , wish me luck . THE HOOCH
 
In 1986 I sealed a tank with Bill Hirsh Gas Tank Sealer. My fuel bowl was getting clogged with rust, with a lot of it visible inside the tank.

It is a three step process which includes 1) cleaner and degreaser, 2) etching solution, and 3) alcohol resistant gas tank sealer.

NOTE: If rust is present you must use all three steps/chemicals. Of course the tank must be removed from the car and expect to re-paint the outside of the tank after completing the process. Follow the directions including the most important one: make sure the inside of the tank is completely dry before performing each of the three steps. I used an electric leaf blower attached to the filler neck with duct tape and left it on low speed for a few hours, then I left the tank outdoors in the sunshine for several days until i was sure it was completely dry inside before proceeding to each next step. I then waited a month before putting gas in the tank, while doing other repairs, like re-painting the whole car. After sealing the tank do not use any fuel additives (like Gumout) that contain the chemical MEK (Methyl Ethel Keytone) as it will soften and melt the sealer.
It has been thirty years since I installed the sealer and the once badly rusted tank has worked flawlessly without a speck of rust in the fuel bowl.
 
Had mine clean at radiator shop west of Levenworth Ks did not have to repaint he does a great job no more rust dust
 
sphooch,

Make sure you don't let any pooling in the tank. I will lightly coat the threads with a small amount of great so the sealer will not stick to them. If you having the tank boiled out you don't need to use the marine clean that Bill has in his kit. When you turning the tank over to coat the inside I suggest when you think you've got it coated you do it even more. Drain and keep the sealer when done. You won't believe what you can do with it on other things.

But what ever you do make sure the tank is completely dry.
 
This thread allows me to ask a question about the use of the Bill Hirsch gas tank sealer.

Around 2002 I used the Bill Hirsch sealer in my gas tank after having it chemically dipped to clean it out. After completing the restoration, around 2012, I decided to use ethanol free gasoline as I had read somewhere that the use of gas with ethanol could attack a sealer and cause it to come loose and clog things up. I don't believe a particular sealer was mentioned and I have no idea where I read this info.

The area that I live in has no ethanol free gas stations. The closest one being in Berlin Md, a considerable distance away. (I have used the internet site that lists the ethanol free stations in an attempt to find one). So in order to keep it ethanol free I have being using high octane racing fuel which is stated to be ethanol free. I have tested it to be sure that it is indeed ethanol free. This gas is very expesnive ($6.50 a gallon) and not always readily available.

So my question is --- for people that have the Bill Hirsch sealer from say the year 2000 forward, have you had any issues with gasoline with ethanol attacking the sealer. I hope not, as I want to start driving this car more and would really like to run gasoline with ethanol without fear of it attacking the sealer.

Thank you - Hunter
 
To me it would not be worth the risk of using the sealer, for one thing you would not be able to seal the tank around all the baffle's and another the gasoline that we have today, will most likely turn the sealer to messy goop. In my opinion it would be better to not seal the tank. If your tank is that crappy , find a better tank. Just my 2 cent's.;)
 
Update:
In the process of cleaning the tank, a rather large piece of previously applied sealer came loose as I was dumping a batch of vinegar after soaking an sloshing around. My Dad, the previous owner, had applied that many years ago but the tank was installed when it was applied. So I expect that the sealer was only on the bottom of the tank. Hopefully the vinegar will loosen it all so it can all be removed. I will have to beg, borrow or steal an inspection scope. Any suggestions are certainly welcome on how to
a) dissolve or loosen the material other than the vinegar or
b) how to be sure its all been removed before applying some new Bill Hirsch Sealer

Thanks

Stan
 
Stan,

When building a house you have to start with a good foundation. Where did you come up with the Vinegar? Take the tank to a radiator shop and have them boil it. You need to get all that crud and rust out of the inside of the tank. Including the old sealer. If you don't. You've wasted your time and money. May I suggest you give Bill a call. He'll put you on the correct path.

As for coating all of the inside. That's why I stated about when you think your done you keep on turning the tank around even more. Remember water is the enemy when coating the inside.

And stay away from the additives and other snake oil treatments. The chemicals in some of this stuff will do more harm then good to the sealer.
 
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