gas shutoff

S

Scott Foldenauer

Junior Member
My 80 year old shut-off no longer shuts off. Can anyone tell me if they have success in using the original style replacement or should I go to a modern type ball valve. I am hearing the original style replacements still allow gas through to the carburetor. (I know that this wouldn't be a problem if I had my float and float valve set correctly - I am also taking steps to resolve). Gosh this is fun!
 
I took my original valve apart and polished the taper using toothpaste. It now shuts off completely. I also seated the carb needle and seat with toothpaste, and that now fully shuts off also.
 
I had success by stripping the valve apart and lapping the edges with lapping compound then tooth paste. Reinstall the packing/nut. Bench test with air till you get a decent seal, then test it with gas.
My 2cents, But if you want to try the repop valve, you may have to do this anyway (as I did on another car) the tolerances just aren't there with out work.
Good luck Scott, and keep having fun!
 
I would try the lapping first. I bought a new one from Mike's affordable 4 years ago and it works fine. A new one is around $30
 
New one here. So far so good. Also did the filter in the top of it to keep some of the junk out.
 
Scott, I was in such a hurry 2 summer's ago to get my '31 "A" up and running, I too, had an old , worn valve, sent off for a "re-pop" from Snyder's, drove car for a year, had good luck with the new valve. This past summer I had to remove engine, Have 3/4 full tank gas, Not one drop of fuel has leaked past my filter bowl opening for months now. ( by the way, I've kept my old valve for future winter-time rebuild project for a spare).
 
No problems with mine, late 31 indented BUT to avoid any problems and the inconvenience of opening/closing both the hood and the valve I opted to install the electric shut-of.
Paul in CT
 
I purchased a aftermarket and installed about 2 years ago. It leaks through to the carb. So guess I would suggest the rebuild of your old one like mentioned above. If I remember, I think you can buy kits to rebuild them.
 
Be sure to clean the gas tank as well as you can, then install the fine brass screen in the valve to help keep any junk from damaging the new valve. I haven't seen any problems with the repro valves, if you need to buy one rather than lap your leaking original valve.
 
Fred K-OR said:
I purchased a aftermarket and installed about 2 years ago. It leaks through to the carb. So guess I would suggest the rebuild of your old one like mentioned above. If I remember, I think you can buy kits to rebuild them.
Click to expand...

The kit I bought works fine.
 
Mine was leaking thru. the carb. I disconnected the gas line at the carb. and opened and closed the shut off valve and flushed about a pint of gas out, their must have been a small piece of rust or dirt, but it works great now, not a drop.
 
There is a product called fuel lube that is used in aircraft fuel systems. It resembles grease and seals and lubricates petcock tapered parts.No fuel or solvent will dissolve it. I used it when I worked on WW2 vintage radial engines.

I think most new petcocks come lubed with this. If you put some on the gas cap gasket,it will turn on and off easy. Model T guys use it. Langs model T parts sell it. The trouble is one tube is a lifetime supply. Be good for a club to have for members.

John
 
john in illinois said:
There is a product called fuel lube that is used in aircraft fuel systems. It resembles grease and seals and lubricates petcock tapered parts.No fuel or solvent will dissolve it. I used it when I worked on WW2 vintage radial engines.

I think most new petcocks come lubed with this. If you put some on the gas cap gasket,it will turn on and off easy. Model T guys use it. Langs model T parts sell it. The trouble is one tube is a lifetime supply. Be good for a club to have for members.

John
Click to expand...
I got a small "pill bottle" half full of fuel lube from an A&P friend. Works like a charm!
 
I rebuilt mine and haven't had any problems with it, but I've also istalled at least a dozen of the new valves sold by snyders labeled to be leakproof guaranteed and haven't had problems with them
 
My shutoff valve gets very hard to turn when I use regular (ethanol mix) gas. When I use strictly premium (no ethanol) the valve is smooth as butter. Guess the ethanol swells the o'ring in the valve. Have since sworn off the regular stuff.

Leadpot,
 
I ordered one of the electric shut offs for my girlfriends model a. when it shows up and I install it I will report how it works.
 
Update: I thought that I should let you know that the advise that I received here paid off. A little bit of lapping compound and toothpaste did the trick. I also used the shut-off rebuild kit. Now I am one week into the next eighty years of leak-free service (I hope). Thanks everyone for your help.
 
Having gone through a couple of shut off valves I ended the situation with an inline ball **** valve from Lowe's and after 4 years it has been flawless.
 
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