Gas Shut Off

Fillinjc said:
Hi,

I am installing a down draft Stromberg in my 1930 coupe. I am going to try gravity feed to start. I am replacing my leaking fuel shut off valve with a new one that I bought from Snyder's. After reading posts here I know that I want to be sure of a positive shut off. Is there any advantage to the additional valve in the Bratton's catalog?

https://www.brattons.com/30-31gas-line-with-shut-off-valve.html

Thanks,
Jerry
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Gravity feed worked great for my Stromberg until I went over 55mph.
 
holy crap! $61!

Hopefully you put the pencil filter in the valve/tank as tiny rust flakes are what usually kills the shutoff valves in the first place.
 
Not so sure copper tubing is an acceptable type of tubing for gas lines. And that ball valve, not sure the innerds will live with todays gas.
 
one can buy a 1/8" ball valve at local hardware stores with viton or similar seats for fuels for about $10 or so. Get compression/ adapter fittings, cut a small section from the existing model A gas line either inside or under hood for indented '31 and install valve where line section removed.
 
Fillinjc said:
Hi,

I am installing a down draft Stromberg in my 1930 coupe. I am going to try gravity feed to start. I am replacing my leaking fuel shut off valve with a new one that I bought from Snyder's. After reading posts here I know that I want to be sure of a positive shut off. Is there any advantage to the additional valve in the Bratton's catalog?

https://www.brattons.com/30-31gas-line-with-shut-off-valve.html

Thanks,
Jerry
Click to expand...

I think you will end up installing a pump.
 
SeaSlugs said:
holy crap! $61!

Hopefully you put the pencil filter in the valve/tank as tiny rust flakes are what usually kills the shutoff valves in the first place.
Click to expand...

This is the pencil filter?
 

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I just installed the fuel valve kit from Brattons, the one with the ball valve and copper tubing. I only did this as a temporary measure, after loosing a full tank of gas over winter in the storage unit where I keep my car. The fuel shut off valve, an original type from Brattons, along with the pencil filter, were installed a few years ago, must have been seeping, unknown to me, for a while. I checked the screens in the fire wall and carb filters finding no trace of rust. The tank looks clean.
I can only figure the fuel shut off must have been seeping for quite a while and the float seat had some debris on it and started leaking. My usual practice, after driving the car, is to turn off the shut off and allow the car to die from fuel starvation, before leaving the car. (I keep a large plastic pan under the engine area and check it for any fluid leaks regularly.)
I can only figure that the crap gas that I use has left its usual deposits on the float seat and possibly the shut off fit. I added a good slug of SeaFoam to the tank before adding gas. The needle seat has stopped leaking, for now, thanks to the SeaFoam. The plan is to replace the shut off and needle seat in the carb. Any good recommendations from the group on a needle & seat that will hold up to the crap gas? (That is all that is available in this part of the country.)
 
Copper can work harden over time and crack. That's also the reason it isn't legal for brake lines, even though my friend has a 29 Stutz with copper brake lines, and says the factory used copper.

In the late 70's I bought some brass tube and brass plate to make a funnel to fill the ****** on my motorcycle. I hung the brass funnel on the wall of the granary, and come spring I found the brass tube had a crack. I never could figure that one out. Why would the 1/4" brass tube crack while hanging on the wall for 6 months?
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
In the late 70's I bought some brass tube and brass plate to make a funnel to fill the ****** on my motorcycle. I hung the brass funnel on the wall of the granary, and come spring I found the brass tube had a crack. I never could figure that one out. Why would the 1/4" brass tube crack while hanging on the wall for 6 months?
Click to expand...

Age hardening? Medium difficulty technical write up of age hardening mechanism here http://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=9623

The process is accelerated at low temperatures (precipitation of two phase mix.)

Joe K
 
I just have a regular ball valve on mine, ( for several years, with no problems)with adopers down the standard gas line. Then I go to the auto parts store and buy steel brake line, and cut it to the size I want.
 
Tom Wesenberg; In the late 70's I bought some brass tube and brass plate to make a funnel to fill the ****** on my motorcycle. I hung the brass funnel on the wall of the granary said:
With my pre-'16 antique cars, I get a lot exposure to brass and its problems. The best fix to prevent brass from cracking is to anneal it. You anneal brass by bringing it up to about 500 degrees F. and then by either letting it air cool or by quenching it in water. With it in its soft annealed state, there isn't the problem of it cracking apart like a piece that has been work hardened. I bought a reproduction pair of brass Rushmore headlights for $950 in 2001. Both of the headlight doors now have ugly splits in them from having been work hardened when they were made. Work hardening puts stress into the brass that eventually in time, blows it apart.
Click to expand...
 
Why not? In the past 80+ years I'm sure just about every type of metal or rubber gas hose has been used, either as a final fix or a temporary fix. JMO
Paul in CT
 
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