Gas shut off valve options

petew said:
Yeah I've looked at the compression in line valves and that is an option.
I really want to get a valve with male / female threads so I can pull the fuel line off at the sediment bowl and just screw a valve in there and screw the fuel line onto that.
That's why I was wondering if anyone know what the thread size is for the outlet side of the sediment bowl is.
Restoration Supply has some nice period correct valves .
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The outlet of the sediment bowl is a ferrel fitting just like the carburetor inlet. Not sure if you can just screw in a fitting and get it to seal. Not sure. Definitely not pipe thread.
 
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The inline valves seem like a good option for someone who is tired of replacing original style valves.
I thought I saw an old post saying a specific brand hardware store type valve works as a replacement as well, but I can't find that post again.
 
I don't know what the condition is of the OP's fuel tank but if a tank gets corroded the little bits of iron oxide are hard enough to scratch up a valve seat over time. There are likely a few folks with rusty tanks. They aren't easy to repair but there aren't a lot of options since there isn't much in the way of new ones out there.
 
Ace Hardware 1/4” compression
Tractor supply has a similar one as well
 

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Rather than mess around under the tank, I added an in-line valve under the hood and never touch the valve under the tank. No leaks. Not the prettiest, but neither is leaking gas.
 

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I have 4 or 5 of those leaky, hard to turn valves in my junk collection. The handle on the "no leak" one that I bought from Snyder's around 3 years ago is still easy to turn and it doesn't leak. I don't know if this has anything to do with it but I only store my T's and A's with e-free gas.
 
My shut off valves leak, drips at the shut off valve. I replaced the old reprop valves with the new “leakless” valves sold at the A vendors and it now also leaks at the valve dripping into the car. I tried to remove the valve from the gas tank and the new valves are two piece. As you un thread the valve, the stem that screws into the gas tank stays in the gas tank. You have to use a pair of vice grips to get it out which ruins it and you buy another valve. I was going to buy the valve and tubing from Mikes A parts but it threads on to the old gas valve which does not solve the dripping valve problem. If there was a fitting with the 1/4 inch pipe thread and the fitting that matches the tubing that goes to the firewall on my 30 A that would be a good option. Without a fitting to replace the gas valve I don’t see how that would work?
 
These slides are not a fix for a leaky valve, but it should help if you take one apart.
 

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I've got two of my A's fixed like Y-Block's and the parts to fix the other two. This fix has worked for three years for me and I recommend it till someone makes a valve setup that fits in the bottom of the tank where the original valve is that is ball type.
 
C1Nelson, it looks like the inlet to the valve that is stuck in the tank has a hex opening, can you get an Allen wrench in there
to get it out?
 

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Bob C said:
C1Nelson, it looks like the inlet to the valve that is stuck in the tank has a hex opening, can you get an Allen wrench in there
to get it out?
Click to expand...

Bob, I am not sure why it looks like that. I just looked at my spare from Snyder's and it is only hex shaped at the very opening.

The new ball valve also takes a different pencil filer than the old type shut off valve.
 
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