Gas seepage at steering column

Benson said:
Originally gas tank brackets were Riveted and Soldered.

1. Gas tank brackets were never Brazed OR welded.

Brazing and welding destroys Anti-corrosion coating inside the tank called "Terne coating".
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Yes, very true. From our experience though, the rivet hole thru the tank and on the inside at the A-9062 reinforcing bracket develops cracks numerous radially from the rivet hole, ...especially in the tank. The only way this can be repaired is to weld the rivet hole solid and weld all of the radial cracks. Then redrill new holes to mount the tank bracket and re-rivet it all. The sealer will do a good job as long as vibration or movement of the parts does not happen.

I did not know which year model the O/P has, so below is a shot of both that shows the reinforcing bracket on the inside. The 30/31 tank is even more difficult because it has the splash shields interfering with the reinforcement bracket.
 

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I added the dash mounted steering column bracket but did not remove the gas tank to steering column bracket. Should I remove the bottom half of the bracket or leave it alone?
 
I left the bottom half of my bracket but removed the rubber insulator. Ensure it is not hitting the steering column.
 
I agree with Y B. So long as the steering column is not going to touch the original bracket, it is probably OK to leave it there but allow that things move while the car is being driven, especially over changes in cross fall of the ground. To be ultra safe, I remove mine so there is no way they can clash.
 
Aviation fuel sealant available from SkyGeek.com. PPG Areospace PR 1422. comes in a few drying time formulas. After drying it forms a flexible rubbery layer of protection. Difficult to remove after drying. Its a two part mixture. MEK for cleanup.

Mix and apply to clean dry areas. For sealing of intergal aircraft fuel tanks. Best if applied to seams during assembly but I have used in in situations like described. I had the same issues with my 31 Coupe and purchased the later steering support from Berts that eliminates the load on the fuel tank. My leak has stopped for now.
 
Aretino said:
Aviation fuel sealant available from SkyGeek.com. PPG Areospace PR 1422. comes in a few drying time formulas. After drying it forms a flexible rubbery layer of protection. Difficult to remove after drying. Its a two part mixture. MEK for cleanup.

Mix and apply to clean dry areas. For sealing of intergal aircraft fuel tanks. Best if applied to seams during assembly but I have used in in situations like described. I had the same issues with my 31 Coupe and purchased the later steering support from Berts that eliminates the load on the fuel tank. My leak has stopped for now.
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I have to thank you for this suggestion! I got the stuff and it's great. Like you said, it adheres like crazy, and it's a flexible rubber membrane. A little sloppy putting on, but I think this will do the trick for some time to come.
 
Right now, I'm reading a book about a young fellow who was part of a team crossing the north of Australia in 1919 in preparation for a forthcoming air race. In it, they mentioned that they carried cans of condensed milk for fuel tank, lines leaks. They soak a piece of cloth in the milk and plaster it over the leak. When the milk is dried and baked on, it seals the leak and petrol will not dissolve it.
I'd never heard of this old time repair but I'll remember it hoping all the time that I won't need it.
 
In 1966 I saw the results of a fire caused by a leaky fuel gauge in a Model A. It started when the driver turned off the ignition and a spark there started the fire. The Model A had pulled into a gas station and the gas station had gone up in flames too. It was an old-timey gas station, made out of wood, with one pump. It was in a rural part of California along 101.

Everyone should carry a fire extinguisher in their car where it can be easily grabbed in an emergency.
 
Synchro909 said:
Right now, I'm reading a book about a young fellow who was part of a team crossing the north of Australia in 1919 in preparation for a forthcoming air race. In it, they mentioned that they carried cans of condensed milk for fuel tank, lines leaks. They soak a piece of cloth in the milk and plaster it over the leak. When the milk is dried and baked on, it seals the leak and petrol will not dissolve it.
I'd never heard of this old time repair but I'll remember it hoping all the time that I won't need it.
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I remember my Dad used to put milk in his bicycle tires to stop leaks. Seemed to work. I guess milk was easier to come by than a patch back when... :rolleyes:
 
5851a said:
Wasn't there a video a short time back of an A involved in an accident and bursting into flames. Wouldn't want to drive it myself until fixed.
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I am not familiar with a current video but I know we there was an older couple killed in their car years ago. They hit a tree, car caught on fire and they panicked and could not get their seat belts unhooked. This was in WA state.
 
I have been working on fuel shut off valve and carburetor lines on my 28 for at least 2 weeks. New shut off valve, pencil filter, and new interior gas line and new carburetor line and finally no leaks. Gas leaks have always bothered me. I had a neighbor working under his car with a torch, near his gas tank when the tank blew. It literally blew up so hard that it lifted the car off the ground. I was around 30 foot away and that blast scared the crap out of me.
 
I would follow Ernie Vitucci's suggestion. Installing a 30-31 hanger will relieve the strain on the crack. Applying a clear epoxy (not JB Weld) to a clean metal surface will bond to the metal and seal the crack. Epoxy is compatible with gasoline and can be painted.
 
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