gas question

Well, this question should bring forth a lot of opinions, whether fact-based or not! Your car didn't NEED any additives in 1939, so it doesn't need any now, either. But a little Marvel Mystery Oil and the like won't hurt. You do not need any kind of octane boost, unless you have super high compression heads. Octane of regular gas today is a lot more than in 1939.
 
For my 34’ Roadster, I use nonethanol (since ethanol destroys gaskets if it sits up for a while, turns to gonk) and lead substitute (18ml per 1 gallon of gas) and the car runs well.

I normally use 87 regular or mid grade 89. Haven’t noticed a difference.

I’ve heard if you don’t use lead you have to modify the ignition timing. Lead does help as a lubricant though and hotter burn if I remember. Someone else can chime in and correct me on the advantages to using lead.


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Yes......I use STABIL when I put E-10 in my "collector" cars. Mainly due to the short "shelf life" of E-10 in my area. It separates out after a month or so......turns "pee-yellow", but still burns OK for a short while, then water in the tank becomes an issue.
 
I have been noticing that the stations with non ethanol fuel have now been posting may contain a trace of ethanol. I questioned the guy at the station and he said may have less then 1%. I am thinking due to the fact that there may a little fuel in the tanker that had ethanol fuel from a previous load before it was reloaded with non ethanol fuel. Probably won't effect much during the driving season but I plan on using a stabilizer just prior to parking for the winter.
 
I’ve always been told that lead substitute acts as a stabilizer for fuel, just don’t put in modern cars or boats of course.


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How come in over thirty years of 10 % and never using something like Stabil I have never had a fuel system related problem? Stabil use just a myth?


Only Stabil related thing I know about is when it screwed up my sons (later) carb
 
How come in over thirty years of 10 % and never using something like Stabil I have never had a fuel system related problem? Stabil use just a myth?


Only Stabil related thing I know about is when it screwed up my sons (later) carb

Do you drive your car often enough that you need to buy gas fairly often? Problems most often arise when a car sits for a few months with a partially empty gas tank. Your tank "breathes" with each temperature swing. After a warm humid day, as the tank cools, it draws in warm humid air (typical NJ air). As the air cools the moisture condenses on the top and sides of the tank interior. These water drops end up at the bottom of the tank. As the tank warms up the next day, the air in the tank expands and is pushed out, but the moisture stays. With straight gasoline, the water sits on the bottom of the tank but with the 10% ethanol mix, the water is absorbed by the ethanol and forms a corrosive mix.
So I would guess that you drive your car regularly, or else only park it with a full tank.
 
How come in over thirty years of 10 % and never using something like Stabil I have never had a fuel system related problem? Stabil use just a myth?


Only Stabil related thing I know about is when it screwed up my sons (later) carb


I always thought it was hard on older rubber components, line and gaskets (like fuel pump check valves). At least it hasn't been great for a lot of weed whippers, boats, and others. If you use it, burn it fairly quickly.
 
“At least it hasn't been great for a lot of weed whippers, boats, and others. If you use it, burn it fairly quickly.”
I can attest to that having had to replace carburetors on a chain saw and a roto tiller, both of which get limited use. I now go to the local marina and buy non ethanol gas for all my gas powered tools and what doesn’t get used at the end of the season goes in the tank of the suburban.
 
For non-eth... a little bit of MMO won't hurt anything or might help. I use it anyway.


Non-eth, I will use stabil or Startron when I winterize my stuff. Everything has started quite quickly in the spring (might be a lot of good other things too, carbs,pump,electric). Probably have at least 5-8 gallons in the tank. Might try a fill up this yr, but it gets super cold here and getting some new gas in it early spring has worked.
 
We're fortunate here in Idaho to have pure gas (non-ethanol) readily available! Many stations have non-ethanol regular and several also have non-ethanol premium. Regular is usually $.20/gallon more. I also use it in my Honda CR-V and get roughly 3-4 miles per gallon more. I see a steady stream of late model Mustangs, Camaros, Chargers and motorcycles at the non-ethanol premium pumps.
 
Been using ethanol pump gas since it came out both in the 49 and the 69 Big block Camaro w/10.5 to 1 cr. No snake oil and No issues as long as both are driven on a regular basis at least once a month at operating temperature.

Stock Iron valves in the 49 and Stainless in the Camaro. The 49 has 20k miles [mostly highway] and the Camaro about 15K, most of them pretty hard (410" 65 Vette 396)
 
Most equipment available now will tolerate 10% ethanol, but non-ethanol is available most places and well worth the advantages IMO. Ethanol attracts moisture and just not the best option in a lot of cases. But if you like it, run it. :)
 
It's not a question if it will screw up lawn mowers,chain saws,weed eaters or your carburetor and fuel lines. It's when. I have rebuilt about 6 carbs. for friends in the last year that have been screwed up by ethanol gas. I am a firm believer that if an engine is going to sit for over one month to use non ethanol fuel and Startron stabilizer.
 
When I put my cars away for the winter, I always fill them up right before I put them in storage. After they are tucked away, I go around and fill the tanks to the brim with fresh gas from a 2 gallon can. Most of the problems can be traced to oxidation, so I leave as little air (therefore oxygen) in the tank as possible. I have never had a fuel-related problem. Of course it probably helps a little that in Minnesota, non-ethanol gas is available almost everywhere.
 
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