Gas line filter install

W

wrndln

Well-known member
I know I have some rust and rust particles in the gas tank of my 29 phaeton. I bought a "cleanable" fuel filter shown in the attached picture I want to install. I am temporarily using gasoline resistant rubber hose in place of the steel or copper line from the sediment bowl to the carb. The filter came with some plastic fittings also shown in the picture attached. My question is do the fitting need some kind of sealer like Teflon tape or do they seal well by just tightening them in the filter, sediment bowl and carb? Lastly, is white Teflon tape resistant to gasoline if it is used?
Thanks for any helpful input.
Rusty Nelson
 

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i don't like plastic fittings, i use brass. i cant comment on the use of teflon tape on plastic, i don't know.

model A fuel line is 1/4" that fitting may be to big anyway??? unless you are putting it inside the car.

i think if it were me i would use brass fittings and teflon tape them but do not get the tape past the treads it may enter the fuel line.
 
I would not recommend using the glass "take apart" inline filter. They have been well known to leak and start fires. If I needed to, I would use a metal cased inline filter. Yes, you can't see through the case but you can take them off to check them and they don't start fires.
 
wrndln said:
I know I have some rust and rust particles in the gas tank of my 29 phaeton. I bought a "cleanable" fuel filter shown in the attached picture I want to install. I am temporarily using gasoline resistant rubber hose in place of the steel or copper line from the sediment bowl to the carb. The filter came with some plastic fittings also shown in the picture attached. My question is do the fitting need some kind of sealer like Teflon tape or do they seal well by just tightening them in the filter, sediment bowl and carb? Lastly, is white Teflon tape resistant to gasoline if it is used?
Thanks for any helpful input.
Rusty Nelson
Click to expand...
Yellow tape is suppose to be fuel resistant versus white
 
Put a 1948 cadillac filter in the bowl. Takes about 15 minutes, is as leakproof as the original bowl, and you can see when its getting time to change. And it actually looks good.
 
I used a filter in the glass bown from a 54 Studebaker.I suspect it's just an AC filter like used on the cadillac and dozens of other cars.I did have to take out the fine bowl screen to do it though.Personally,I feel that between a finger screen in the tank,screen or filter in the bowl,and the screen in the carb adding another filter is like using a belt,suspenders,and a couple of bungee cords to hold your pants up.Put more filters in the A gravity system and watch how some of them turn the gas flow into a dribble.
 
I have done MANY tens of thousands of miles with a plastic in line filter. I cut a piece out of the original fuel line, make a brass annulus which I solder the to line to seal the fuel resistant hose and as a double measure, a small hose clip on each end. I have never seen a drip from one so I can't see any risk of fire. What I like about the semi transparent filters (which I mount vertically) is that I can see the fuel level in it and know how much crud is already in there so that I know how much longer before I replace it.
I have only seen one Model A here with a glass filter on the firewall and it was non functional. Most of our Model As are 1928-9 models so they have the cast iron filters and I have never seen one of those that is not solid inside with crud set like concrete. Are replacement filters even available for those?
 
keith true said:
i used a filter in the glass bown from a 54 studebaker.i suspect it's just an ac filter like used on the cadillac and dozens of other cars.i did have to take out the fine bowl screen to do it though.personally,i feel that between a finger screen in the tank,screen or filter in the bowl,and the screen in the carb adding another filter is like using a belt,suspenders,and a couple of bungee cords to hold your pants up.put more filters in the a gravity system and watch how some of them turn the gas flow into a dribble.
Click to expand...

x- two
 
Both our cars have the glass bowls. I added the WIX filters to them and haven't had any problems. When I bought our Coupe it had one of those glass inline filters - it was leaking. I replaced it with a new standard fuel line and no extra filter.
 

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PIPE THREADS

The way pipe threads seal is by tightening the components until the tapered threads interfere with each other creating a seal.

To get them to interfere and seal we use a thread lubricant.

Pipe thread dope and tapes contain PTFE and Teflon these are lubricants.

Their number 1 purpose is lubrication of the threads so they can tighten against each other.

Each type has an intended application and recommended use.

The label should indicate what they rated for.

In most cases it really doesn't matter if it's gas proof or not because the sealant isn't what's doing the sealing, it's the threads.

If you are counting on these slippery lubricants to actually stop the leak then you have a problem with your threads.... they are either made incorrectly or are worn out.

I prefer liquid sealers used sparingly in most pipe thread applications.


STRAIGHT THREADS

Straight threads require an O-ring, a gasket or taper and seat separate from the threads to do the sealing.

Even though people put thread sealer on straight threads, it's just a Band-Aid that under pressure will fail.

David

RENNER'S CORNER
EARLY FORD PARTS
 
I use Gasoila E-Seal thread sealant, specifically blended to withstand ethanol laced fuel. Works great, doesn’t dissolve like white Teflon tape.
 
The A-FILTER that Synders sells looks interesting to me. Has anyone used this type of filter? Pictures are nice too. John
 
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