Gas Line Ferrule & Nut

Walt Ebie

Walt Ebie

Senior Member
Still working on my carburetor problem - seems to be a gas starvation thing - I noticed Les Andrews says the ferrule on the gas line into the carb should be 1/8" from the end of the line. My ferrule is flush with the end of the line. Andrews also says if the line is too far into the carb that could restrict the gas flow - which sounds like my problem. Question is: is the ferrule to be flush at the end of the line or does the 1/8" refer also to the width of the ferrule? It still leaks a little so I probably need a new ferrule anyway. Is there any particular technique to putting a new ferrule on an old line?
 
i always have the ferule on the line an 1/8th works for me..
you should be able to slide it off and install a new one if it didnt upset the line any
 
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When "sqeezing" down a NEW ferrule, smear the threads & the ferrule with Vaseline, helps reduce friction, so the ferrule will squeeze down on the tube, tightly.
Bill W.
 
Also a tube cutter will typically compress the end of the line. I open up the end by taking off the burr with a utility knife.
Bob
 
The tubing should stick out of the ferrule no more than 1/8", but flush is OK. Having the end of the tubing flush with the ferrule will not cause the fuel starvation problem that Les warns of. So, unless this connection at the carb is leaking gas, you do not need to put on a new ferrule to address the "gas starvation" problem.

If you have confirmed that gas flows freely out of the fuel line when you take it off of the carb (flow into clean jar for a time) then I'd look inside the carb for a clogged passage or jet.

How long does it have to run before it starts acting like it is running out of gas? Does opening the GAV seem to help at all? Does it make any difference if the fuel tank is full or down around 1/4 tank or below?

Try running with the gas cap loose or off the car for a bit; some vents get clogged. (I've seen it often.)

Fuel filter in there anywhere (besides the screen that came on the car originally)? You only have gravity feed here, no fuel pump, so you can't handle much restriction due to rust particles in your fuel before you notice it.

I am also reminded of some sage carb advice: "Most carburetor problems are electrical." That is, I'd look again at your entire ignition system, just to confirm that all is good there. Take nothing for granted. Check coil polarity, the wire connection from armored cable up to points, the ignition switch, the point gap and the spark plug gap.

After chasing a "carb problem" for a long time without success, it is good to look elsewhere.
 
A little 'poof' does help but only for a few seconds. Popping the choke will also keep it running, temporarily. Has a good gas flow....tried it with the gas cap off.....checked the side bowl filter....no help. I've tried about everything guys have suggested in hopes of avoiding buying a new carb but I think I'm about out of things to try. The electrical is good so nothing turned up there. My carb is one somebody "made' when they restored the car back in the 80's - has a 1930 Zenith bottom half and a '31 Zenith top with a side bowl. And having 3 or 4 filters (glass sediment bowl with filter under the dash.....the cast iron bowl on the firewall.....the side bowl filter at the carb...and maybe another one in the gas shut-off valve. I guess it's finally time to get all that stuff out and install a new carb, put the glass bowl on the firewall, and use 2 new gas lines.
 
Walt, with your last post info.. I would suggest getting the new tank to firewall line (Drop the filter in that line), if the carb is able to be rebuilt..do that before you buy another. Too many filters seem like a god idea, but in essence they restrict flow and with no pump to push that is a detriment to fuel flow.
I suppose you could have a float problem set too low, not allowing enough fuel capacity while running... that too could be reset during a rebuild.
You might want to check the pencil filter in the shut off valve while you are changing the hard line. Good luck.
 
By the way, do any of you use some sort of sealer or plumber's tape when installing a new gas line or is a new ferrule usually sufficient to stop any leaking/seeping?
 
At the castings, the thread condition and the fit to the seat by the ferrule will dictate if a sealer is needed. Teflon tape doesn't like the gas so it breaks down and will clog the internals of the carb. There is a yellow brush-on that is petroleum resistant. Use sparingly.
Bob
 
Walt Ebie said:
By the way, do any of you use some sort of sealer or plumber's tape when installing a new gas line or is a new ferrule usually sufficient to stop any leaking/seeping?
Click to expand...

I was always told NOT to use plumber's teflon tape on fuel line connections.

Use a dab of non-hardening sealer on the threads. This has worked for me.
 
You should not need any type of sealer unless the surface where the ferrule seats on the carburetor is in bad condition.
 
You say you have all these filters. But you don't say what your'e capturing in them. Probably a lot of rust. I assume you got the car that way. I'd drain the tank and remove and extra filters and see how it runs without them' Too many filters can slow the gas flow down to where it appears to be starving. Also I would take the carb apart (one bolt) and blow each jet out and make sure that some of what all those filters are for, didn't get through and clog a jet or two. Good Luck with it!
Terry
PS As long as the fuel line is not protruding in to the carb past 1/8 I wouldn't worry about it. Being flush with the end of the line won't hurt anything as long as it doesn't leak at the fitting.
 
Thanks for the tips.....actually the filters were capturing very little. But I have pulled out all the filters and gas lines and after their removal i found very little at all coming out of the tank and gas valve. So I have a new carb (a standard Zenith-1), gas lines and a new glass sediment bowl. I'll start installing all that tomorrow. In addition, a fellow club member (Dennis Kempthorne) discovered today that my manifold was looser than it should have been so I also have a new gasket for that as well. Hopefully all this will get the car back to where it should have been. And terry was right -I got the car that way. Somebody thought if one filter is good, three ought to be great. Not quite so.
 
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