Gas in oil?

qstott

qstott

Senior Member
Is this an uncommon thing? I attempted to drive it to work the other morning, as was not successful. Only a mile from home it died, after a back fire or two.

I think the points were the problem, as when I got it home they were oxidized. I plan to set the timing this weekend, replace points and condenser and also replace a leaking fuel shut off valve and needle and seat.

I noticed it had leaked some oil on the garage floor, more than I gave been seeing. When I checked the oil it was over full and looked clean. Having just recently got the car, I was almost certain I had checked the oil earlier and the level seemed to be correct. The dipstick smelled of gas.

The last time I drove it, it acted like I had to advance the spark a lot to keep it from back firing.

Could it gave been running too rich?

The car was said to be in great shape, I just want to drive it some without having to spend more time working on it than driving it. I freely admit that I am without experience and some of the problems are self induced.

You know they say experience is what you gain just after you needed it. 😊
 
Do you have an original style updraft manifold on it or a downdraft? Downdraft carb/manifold will allow a leaky shutoff/float valve to fill your engine with gas. I don't see any other way though. Would have to be running SERIOUSLY rich to do anything like that ...
 
I'm making some progress. It's running again. I think corroded points were the problem. It was a good day today. The new gas valve and fuel lines got installed, as well as a needle and seat. I put in a set of modern points and condenser with new point plates. Set the timing and it fired right up. I just ran it for a second. I will do an oil change tomorrow.

The guy I bought it from came over and " supervised" the timing procedure. He has been very helpful. I found out the engine he has in it has the rear ( Chrysler) seal modification done. He says the mains are pressurized.

I'm not sure the oil has gas in it, but I'll change it to to be safe. Sure was nice to hear it fire right up.
 
About the new points:

The points (original or "modern" will wear rapidly the first 200 miles or so ... good idea to check and reset them a couple of times like at 200 and 400 miles. After that they settle down and wear very little.

Symptoms are back firing and running rough when the gap gets closer than it should be.


QUOTE=qstott;1269264]I'm making some progress. It's running again. I think corroded points were the problem. It was a good day today. The new gas valve and fuel lines got installed, as well as a needle and seat. I put in a set of modern points and condenser with new point plates. Set the timing and it fired right up. I just ran it for a second. I will do an oil change tomorrow.

The guy I bought it from came over and " supervised" the timing procedure. He has been very helpful. I found out the engine he has in it has the rear ( Chrysler) seal modification done. He says the mains are pressurized.

I'm not sure the oil has gas in it, but I'll change it to to be safe. Sure was nice to hear it fire right up.[/QUOTE]
 
One thing that causes backfire is a small hole in the muffler. This will happen on deceleration when air gets sucked into muffler and mixes with gas vapor. Exhaust manifold gaskets that leak might do it also.


qstott said:
Is this an uncommon thing? I attempted to drive it to work the other morning, as was not successful. Only a mile from home it died, after a back fire or two.

I think the points were the problem, as when I got it home they were oxidized. I plan to set the timing this weekend, replace points and condenser and also replace a leaking fuel shut off valve and needle and seat.

I noticed it had leaked some oil on the garage floor, more than I gave been seeing. When I checked the oil it was over full and looked clean. Having just recently got the car, I was almost certain I had checked the oil earlier and the level seemed to be correct. The dipstick smelled of gas.

The last time I drove it, it acted like I had to advance the spark a lot to keep it from back firing.

Could it gave been running too rich?

The car was said to be in great shape, I just want to drive it some without having to spend more time working on it than driving it. I freely admit that I am without experience and some of the problems are self induced.

You know they say experience is what you gain just after you needed it. ��
Click to expand...
 
About gas in the oil. THis might be from using too much choke when starting.

Also many cold starts and short run times will allow gas to collect in oil pan if not run long enough to "boil" out the gas and water vapor.

After changing oil make sure that the proper procedure is being used with respect to the choke and GAV,

Here is a recent post that might help:

Benson
Senior Member

Join Date: May 2010
Location: Central Highlands, Cen~Col
Posts: 1,015


icon1.gif
Re: 1930 surging at high speeds-Starting and use of CHOKE and GAV

GAV usage:

GAV will turn ABOUT 6 or 7 turns then you can remove the needle. He asked how far the GAV needle could be turned.

1. GAV 3/4 to 1 turn for startup when COLD, leave it rich while warming up. Reduce to 1/4 turn as engine warms up.

Pull choke for about a Second max , any more will flood engine. It should be noted that pulling the choke when the engine is NOT cranking will have NO EFFECT. If no start give it another one second shot

1a. If the engine starts and promptly dies that is your clue to turn the GAV a little more in CCW direction to make the mixture a little richer. Some engines might need 1 1/2 to 2 turns especially if it is really cold.

If too rich you will hear it "Burble" while running. Blub Blub Blub.

2. GAV 1/4 turn while running on flat after warm up.

Ford made the mixture a little lean so when you go to higher altitudes you can lean it out a little.

3. When climbing a long steep hill an additional 1/8th or 1/4 turn will give some extra power while climbing.

Note on a HOT or COLD start it helps to open the throttle slightly before choking.

I do not know why but some rebuilt carbs will start when HOT with no choke and no extra throttle.

Others require a short shot of choke and extra throttle when hot.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top