Gas gauge leaking !

Special Coupe Frank

Special Coupe Frank

Well-known member
I had the gas-gauge out of my '28 this week to replace the float with a neoprene unit.

I got the "good" wrench set from Bratton.

My gauge appears to be all original, nuts and all.

This morning, I filled the tank up to 3/4, and as I was driving to work, I kept noticing a strong odor of gas, and at a stoplight, noticed a trickle of gasoline running down the face of the instrument panel. :eek:

When I put everything back together, I reused the cork gaskets, and tightened things up "tight", but not wanting to risk damaging anything.

I am ordering new gaskets; any suggestions whether to go with neoprene or stay with cork ?

Also, what is the proper order of the gasket / washer and gasket / faceplate / lens stack for both the gauge body and the lens ?

AND, lastly, how tight - just enough so it doesn't leak ?


Thanks !

SC Frank
 
Damn, Frank....mine started leaking two weeks ago after a fill up! Couldn't figure out where that gasoline smell was coming from...then I saw the front face of the instrument panel with just a film of gas running down it under the guage. I keep a couple of handtowels in the car just for little wipe-ups like this.

I replaced all the gaskets in mine with neoprene when I rebuilt it last year...figured they would stand up to the ethanol a little better. I also replaced the float with a neoprene one for the same reason. Dunno why mine is leaking...I'm hoping it just needs tightening a little. I had thought maybe I didn't put the gaskets back in the proper order...but it hasn't leaked since I rebuilt it over a year ago. I'm thinking all the vibration just caused it to loosen up a tad...a little bump with the inner wrench should tell the tale...

I'd suggest the neoprene gasket set...but I'll be watching this thread to see what others recommend and have used.

Good Luck....!
 
I always use cork gaskets and don't have leaks. Pages 1-174 and 1-175 in Les Andrews' Mechanics Handbook shows the assembly pictures. I like to use 2 brass rings under the outer large nut.

I make the nuts good and tight. It's a good idea to let them take a set and retighten them the next day, then fill the tank.
 
Tom,

Thanks for the reply; I have to get Les's books.

So, I'm guessing the gauge-body goes into the tank first, followed by the cork ring, then the brass washer, then the big nut ? ( Believe that's how mine came apart.)

How about the inner stack: cork ring, then glass, then faceplate, then cork ring, then smaller nut ?
 
I assemble the inner parts first then install the assembled guage into the tank.

Into the housing goes a gasket, then the glass, another gasket, the tin indicator plate, then the small inner nut. Then install a cork gasket into the tank, then the assembled guage, two brass rings, then the large outer nut.

Let the cork gaskets take a set for a day or so, then retighten them, then you should be fine to fill the tank. I use cork with no gasket cement.
 
While we're on the subject...how low does the tank have to be before you can safely take the guage out? I think I read about it in Les' book....was it lower than a half tank...what's that five gallons...? Mine's a '29...
 
Personal experience:

(1) Neoprene gaskets: I had a set fail over one winter from just sitting in the fumes of E5.

(2) Cork gaskets... still the best. 4 years now with no problems, even with E10.

(3) Cork gasket caveat... always replace; never re-use.

(4) Neoprene float... no problem with E5 or E10.

(5) Personal conclusion... neoprene float / cork gaskets.

Thoughts, anyone?
 
I'm with John. Ethanol is a really good solvent and can cause elastomers to swell. I've always used cork gaskets but replaced my float with a neoprene one several years ago; so far no problems. $0.02.
 
Hint. Save yourself a little aggravation when re-installing guage. Coat the brass washers with a thin film of oil before assembly. When you go to tighten-up the guage, it won't turn in the housing and the face/scale will stay vertical. Good luck.
 
I always use cork gaskets. The neoprene tends to squish out and leak. The cork float will sink when the alcohol in the gas melts the shellack. I use cork gaskets and neoprene floats. I assemble the guage inner parts in the vice, then install as a unit. I oil the threads in the tank, and the brass washers so to minimize friction, so the gaskets are tight. A dry fit can make you think it is tight, but only sticking in the threads.
 
Tip of the week Use a small amount of maple syrup (we use Golden Syrup but I'm not sure if you have this in the States) on the threads when you assemble the guage . Reacts with any gas leakage and seals it up completely. Works really well -Karl :)
 
Also be careful of repro fuel guage nuts. I got one that was so poorly cut that it would hardly start and would lock after only a thread of two.
 
Just like to add one more thing, clean the threads i used a pick and i tighten the hell out of it .worst i found the the float is slow to come up but never had one to leak yet knocking on wood as i type
 
Yes Karl is onto it, use the cork gaskets with a thin smear of maple syrup, done dozens this way & never a leak, Derek from a mild temp in NZ.
 
John, Beleive it or not yes we do have maple syrup here, ( no oil leaks in the sea) Normally use golden syrup which is made from sugar cane & that works well, Pretty dam clever these kiwis, Porrige, cream, touch of golden syrup now thats a real breakfast.
 
Thanks all, for your responses !

I did pull out my Judging Standards, per Don Turley's suggestion, and there is a very clear dissected view of the gas-gauge assembly.


I had the "stack" out of order for the inner assembly. :o

Correct order, from the inside-out should be:

cork ring, glass, cork ring, faceplate, nut.

Initially, I had put the faceplate next to the outside face of the glass, followed by the outer cork. This allowed gasoline to slosh-up between the glass and faceplate, then run down the face of the instrument panel.

It's all buttoned-up now, and nice and dry ! :)


Sounds like "Golden Syrup" is probably akin to our Corn or Karo syrups, here in the US... if you need really thick & sticky, then there's always King Syrup... makes 600w look like water ! :D
( Dad loves it on his scrapple, though...)

Now onto the next thing...

Regards,

SC Frank
:cool:
 
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