Gas Gauge Installation secret?

rivcokid

rivcokid

Senior Member
Hi all - well, for about the 50th time, I tried to reinstall the gas gauge on my 31 town sedan. Is there a trick to it? I purchased the "special" tools (the star-shaped ones) and they don't fit but about 30% of the time, thus making the use of them rather tricky.

The issue is that I can't seem to get it tight enough to stop leaking gas into the cabin. If I really crank down on it, the inner part with the level line is crooked. Again, I try to use the star-shaped thing to hold it, but since it really doesn't fit well, invariably it ends up really crooked (I could settle for a little crooked, but not 30 - 45 degrees).

So, is there a secret to keeping it level and tightening it tight enough to not leak? This seems like such a simple thing to do and yet I think I'm going to have a life of only filling up the tank to half way so I don't smell like gas!

Thanks as always in advance.
 
I used grease on mine, the gaskets, threads, glass edges and slip rings, much easier to get it tight with less resistance.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
 
This may not be your problem, but I had a similar issue where I could not get the gauge to stop weeping. On a reproduction gauge that come on my car, I found that the inner nut did not have the correct threads and would never tighten properly. I ordered a correct nut from Bert's and that worked fine.
 
If I remember correctly, the inner star ring holds the glass. If that isn't tight enough, you won't be able to fully tighten the gauge with the outer ring, the star ring will move. And as others have said, the threads must be clean and lubricated so that effective sealing (while level) occurs before max toque is reached. And the tightness of the star ring will be one factor that determines max torque.
 
Escutcheon plate needs to be removed for the cheap tools to fit. Coat cork gaskets with vaseline or oil for better slippage and pliability. (I used Permatex #3 on the inner two gaskets to ensure seal.) The faceplate should be held in place by the tab at the bottom and should not rotate.

I get it now after seeing M. Moose's post - the whole assembly is rotating. The inner ring needs to be well tightened on the bench to be able to hold the assembly in place while tightening the outer nut.
 
Hi all - thanks for the tips and sorry for the delay. This software says I'm supposed to get an e-mail with each post but that ain't happenin'

Yes, the brass slip ring is present and doing nothing to keep the inner parts from moving. I've even tried starting the inner parts turned 180 degrees so they'd end up level but to no avail. I'm going to get the wrench set from Bratton's because I'm through with the crappy one I already have.

will keep you posted. In the meantime, half a tank!
 
Does your gauge have level face plate…..WITH TANG ?
Tang, properly located….helps hold plate in level position when you tighten assembly !

Also, the OUTER RING , after initial tightening… must be backed off slightly… so that you can readjust CENTER RING. THEN hold this adj/position…WITH CENTER NUT WRENCH, while tightening outer ring !

Did you adhere to this process sequence ?
 
@hardtimes - if by tang you mean the little tab that points down on the faceplate, yes, that's there. It doesn't help the situation, though. The entire unit seems to be moving when tightening the outer ring.

I got the inner assembly very tight - since I could have it out, no faceplate in my way, and could hold onto it with a variety of items. It's the final tightening of the outer ring that seems to be the issue. This did not happen when I purchased the car, but has developed since.
 
rivcokid said:
@hardtimes - if by tang you mean the little tab that points down on the faceplate, yes, that's there. It doesn't help the situation, though. The entire unit seems to be moving when tightening the outer ring.

I got the inner assembly very tight - since I could have it out, no faceplate in my way, and could hold onto it with a variety of items. It's the final tightening of the outer ring that seems to be the issue. This did not happen when I purchased the car, but has developed since.
Click to expand...

Hey kid,

TWO things. First NOTE that there is (should be) a-corresponding NOTCH that the tang MUST fit into… before any torque.

SECOND thing… reread my advice and follow exactly !
I repeat , first lightly torque inner ring. NOT PUTTING BEJESUS tight on it first !
Now install with out ring. LOOSEN INNER RING slightly and hold with inner wrench… while applying big torque to outer nut.
This way, you are holding inner nut , in place/ level… while you put sealing torque to outer nut.
 
@hardtimes. Thanks! I'm printing out your messages and when the new wrench set comes I'll put it and the instructions to the test!

@Tim Ayers - worth a try! Thanks
 
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