Gas Gauge Dissasembly

Steve Plucker

Steve Plucker

BANNED
SUBJECT: Removal of the Gas Gauge Cover from the Frame…

I have two Gas Gauge Assemblies that were removed from Model A Gas tanks.

Both have the Gas Gauge Cover (A-9326) that is still screwed into the frame but very, very tightly to the point where trying to hold the assembly in trying to remove the cover is nearly impossible.

What technique have you used to remove such tight covers without ruining the assembly and the parts involved?

I just started to soak the assemblies in KROL but do not know if even that will do the job.

Thanks.

Pluck
 
I don't think I need to tell anyone that those cast aluminium tools sold by the vendors are next to useless. Well made, close fitting tools and a lot of oomph (with care) is about the only way, IMO.
 
I used a tool set (STEEL) made by Pete wrestler, at “AUTO CARE RESTORATIONS” Reading CA. Don’t know if they are still available at a dealer. Quality built and work well!
 
I have the aluminum set and have never had a problem. Snyder's sells both the aluminum and the steel sets in their catalog on page 145. The steel ones are more expensive but should get the job done.
Marty
 
Steve Plucker said:
SUBJECT: Removal of the Gas Gauge Cover from the Frame…

I have two Gas Gauge Assemblies that were removed from Model A Gas tanks.

Both have the Gas Gauge Cover (A-9326) that is still screwed into the frame but very, very tightly to the point where trying to hold the assembly in trying to remove the cover is nearly impossible.

What technique have you used to remove such tight covers without ruining the assembly and the parts involved?

I just started to soak the assemblies in KROL but do not know if even that will do the job.

Thanks.

Pluck
Click to expand...
It seems likely is that the cork gaskets have fused to the glass and the inner nut, possibly also with some corrosion between the inner nut (A-9326) and the body.

What I've done is drive out the float pivot pin and remove the gauge and float assembly. That gives you access to the horns of the body, which you can then carefully grasp in soft wooden jaws in the vise (parallel to the float pivot pin!). Soak thoroughly in Kroil or lacquer thinner to help dissolve the bond between the nut, gasket and glass - with Kroil, maybe overnight. Or you could immerse the whole thing in lacquer thinner overnight, that will definitely soften up the sticky crud that forms between the nut/gasket/glass. (Although lacquer thinner may horse up the black paint on the faceplate). Then use the steel tool to lean down into the nut and turn it. You can use an adjustable wrench on the tool to give you more leverage. I have not had to use heat, that might also be an option, but be careful because the body is pot metal, not steel, and will melt spectacularly. The secret is to make sure you keep the tool perpendicular to the glass or else you'll bugger up the nut.


As an aside - thanks for all the research you've done and documented!


JayJay
 
Well, the hot water trick did the trick...it loosened everything up and all disassembled except for one for which the glass is perty well stuck in there...OH well, the base is shot anyway so I will try to cut it out.

Pluck
 
Steve Plucker said:
Well, the hot water trick did the trick...it loosened everything up and all disassembled except for one for which the glass is perty well stuck in there...OH well, the base is shot anyway so I will try to cut it out.

Pluck
Click to expand...

I have removed stuck glass by heating it with a hot air gun.
It softens the sticky stuff in the gasket that is holding it in there and they usually push out very easy when hot.
 
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