Gas And Spark Rods

johnr9q@yahoo.com

Senior Member
The Spark and Gas rods go thru the steering column upper bushing, As you can see in the photo, the bushing is pressed as far as it will go into the column but the levers are still 3/8" from contacting the groved section on the column head. I triple checked the part number (A3540 SSB)
 

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and if you stop the video at 14;27 you can see the rods have a tight bend as well they may have been filed or ground flatter on the inside curve.
 
Is it possible you have the wrong bushing? Snyders shows one for 1929-30 and one with counter sunk spark and throttle rod holes for 1930-31.
 

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Is it possible you have the wrong bushing? Snyders shows one for 1929-30 and one with counter sunk spark and throttle rod holes for 1930-31.

And that would make sense. Compare the top of the 28-29 column where the ratchet "keepers" are somewhat proud of the tube itself, both in the axis of turning AND their rotation.

Meanwhile the 30-31 column the keepers are "up hard" against the tube.

Joe K
 
The Spark and Gas rods go thru the steering column upper bushing, As you can see in the photo, the bushing is pressed as far as it will go into the column but the levers are still 3/8" from contacting the groved section on the column head. I triple checked the part number (A3540 SSB)


With so much space around the topside edge of the bushing, it almost looks like you have put the bushing in up-side-down?

Brad in Maryland



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I purchased a set of repro rods and had the same problem. I think you need to attach the inside of the bend in the rods with a file to make a sharper inside edge. Don't be tempted to open up the holes in the bushing, that will make the fit sloppy.
 
The “SSB” designation on the part number suggests these are stainless steel rods. It is very hard to make the bend at a sharp 90 degree angle on stainless.

You may need to follow a couple of the solutions given to make this work.

First, IS the bushing down as far as possible? If it was super hard to install, it may not be. You might have to remove the bushing to see if marks show that it was, indeed, down as far as possible. If you can see any part of the outer circumference where there are no interference marks, that says the bushing should go down further with some constructive grinding or filing of the outer circumference. My experience with these bushings is that they need that little bit of fitting to properly bottom into position.

Second, while drilling the holes in the bushing bigger is not advisable, it may help to chamfer the holes down about 1/8” with an oversized drill bit. That will afford some extra space where the bend is not crisp enough.

Third, yes you might be able to carefully create the needed space in the bend by carefully filing the inside edges sharper than they are.

Forth, if all else fails, you might do well to just order some chrome rods. Their bend is still not as sharp as originals but my be better than what you have.
 
It turns out that the bushings I bought from Mikes were incorrect (A3517B) The ones from Snyders are correct (A-3517-X). They have a countersink which allows the rod to go down further. You have to pound very hard with a sledge hammer to get the bushing to seat all the way down even after grinding a bit of the diameter off.
 
I rebuild a lot of column tubes as part of selling the F100 steering boxes.

I apply a thin film of grease to the inner part of the tube where the bushing goes to help drive the bushing all the way. You will be surprised what the grease does.

FYI - There are no 1928-28 rods available from any of the parts suppliers at this time and won't be for quite some time.
 
careful when you hammer down the bushing or the rods to set properly, use a block of wood so not bare metal-to-metal and always TAPPA TAPPA TAPPA, not a heavy WHACK!!
 
Could you not countersink the bushing that you have to make it like the one shown in Bob C's post #6?
 
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