Garage Heating and AC

John Walters

John Walters

Member
Has anyone built a heated/cooled garage for your Model A lately? If so, what heating and air conditioning system did you use? Any concern with potential gas fumes from the car and the fuel source for the htg. and air?

Thanks.
 
My garage is attached, built as a part of the house. No A/C in Alaska, but natural gas forced air heating in the winter. I keep it around 50 degrees unless I am going to be working out there for an extended time. No different that if it was a modern car. (The modern cars get to stay outside in the cold, while the Model A is tucked away nice and toasty.)
 
John Walters said:
Has anyone built a heated/cooled garage for your Model A lately? If so, what heating and air conditioning system did you use? Any concern with potential gas fumes from the car and the fuel source for the htg. and air?

Thanks.
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John, as a side-note to what you are asking, I don't know if you are aware of this but there is a "sister site" owned by Ryan, (the same gentleman that owns Fordbarn) called GarageJournal.com There is actually a specific section over there in their forum section that deals with HVAC entitled 'Heating and Air Conditioning'!;) Folks will likely need to join over there to be able to view it but you will find it is the same protocol as here. I have been a member over there for about 5 years now and have found it to be a great site with interesting content. You may also find some answers to your question over there.

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I have a heat pump here in Creston BC Canada for 5 years now .I am not afraid for open flames/ fumes etc.
Heat pump works like a charm in the winter and cool in the summer. Invested only 1350,-- once and I am pleased.
Have to admit back in the Netherlands then I had in floor heat that's the best an old slogan goes " you get what you pay for "
 
I heat my shop with a wood burner. When it's zero outside I have no problem getting it to 70 degrees. Of course it is insulated and drywalled thru out. The only problem with the wood burner is that I am reluctant to spray paint when I am using it. My solution is going to be to build a small addition on the back of it that will have a gas fired furnace in it. I will also insulate and dry wall this addition as well. I will duct the supply into the main garage but will pull the return back from the addition. No fumes going back to the flame. The thermostat will be in the main shop. As far as cooling you only need that if you are going to be painting when it's really hot & humid. With my approach I could always add a coil & condenser to the furnace but you actually can plan and work around that. At least that's how I do it now.
 
As far as the heater goes I have used the hanging heaters from Menards to heat my shop at home and one of my shops at work. They have worked well for me. I think that the main thing one has to keep in mind when putting any kind of furnace that burns fuel it must be elevated off of the floor. Gasoline fumes are heavy and tend to stay close to the floor. Elevating your heater gives a better margin of safety.
Dave
 
Forced air (natural gas heat) off the house system here. Old garage had an old hanging gas furnace like many shops have. Like someone said, make sure it is in the air so fumes or spilled items are less of a hazard. I have heard good things about radiant quartz also, but have not been impressed when using them at the golf or shooting range. Usually toast the top of your head only! (hopefully the garage ones do a better job!)
 
I have radiant floor hot water heat through out the barn and a sealed gas power vent furnace. In the summer the trees around the barn keeps the sun off the roof and it stays around 78 degrees inside.
 
If you are building new and can put styrofoam board under the floor it makes a big improvement even with out heat or air.
 
I use a window 18,000 Btu cool/heat air conditioner works great, will keep temperature at whatever you set it on. I think I paid around $600 for it. It is mounted in the wall on the back of garage. John
 
3-ton heat pump with 12 diffusers (vents) in the ceiling. I also have two ceiling fans to help circulate the air. I keep the garage 68 degrees in the winter and 74 in the summer. BTW, the garage is 1350 sq. ft. with 10 & 12 ft ceiling heights, no windows, well insulated walls and attic.

Jim
 
It gets really hot here in the summer, so cooling was my main concern. I put down a moisture barrier under the cement floor. I built my shop with twelve foot ceiling and insulated the walls and ceiling with R19 fiberglass insulation. I use a 23000 BTU window unit air conditioner and I can get the temps down to 68 degrees. I installed a 42 inch attic fan in the south facing wall with bi folding doors. The fan will cool reasonably well in the spring and is used for an exhaust fan when I am painting. I don't need any heat. On the rare ocaision that it gets too cold, I just don't go out there. Its just my home model A shop and I only work on mine and my daughters model A's . xxx
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In my shop up North, I used a radiant heater purchased from a Canadian Company. Because it heats items and not the air, it's like walking out in the sunlight. You feel the heat instantly and when you open the door you don't loose your heat. Very easy on the wallet and easy to install.
 
The last place I worked also had radiant heat, and as Gary said, it was excellent.

Also as eeyore said, styrofoam is a must as well as plastic under any garage or basement floor.
 
I ran lines from my house boiler here in Montana and use radiant hot water in the floor. seperate thermo keeps it whereever set. Wouldn't be any good for a/c, but the furnace can be in another building.
 
I heat mine with a natural gas F/A furnace and cool it with a 10,000 BTU window A/C. Garage is well insulated and overhead doors are foam filled. I just make sure the gas is shut off and carb is run dry on the A and the tractor w/snow blower on it.
 
We have 12ft walls insulated and drywalled with R40 fiberglass insulation. Ceiling is again drywall covered with R60 blown-in rock wool insulation. Heating is with a small boiler unit feeding a grid work of lined tubing. Cement slab poured over the heat tubing for the building, is insulated underground for approximatley 20" to retain heat whith-in the building preventing loss to the frozen ground around the outside of the slab. Thermostat controls inside shop temperature to 63F, which I find is a good working temperature year round. Keeps an even building temperature with no areas warmer than any other. I have had it as high as 72F, but find that somewhat too warm.
Cooling in the summer is with a small fan, but only when the humidity and temperature is high. A heated floor in the winter makes it a very comfortable to lay on when under the car, but also your feet are warm, making it not necessary to wear heavy winter footwear.
The next shop (if ever) will have a separate utility room for the boiler, air compressor, etc. Safety from exposed open flame would be the main benefit.
 
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