Gage problems

[Jimbo]

I've got a 50 F-1 and I'm trying to use the old gage's on 12 volt's.Tried the individual reducer's for each gage. They worked for a little while and then quit.Power to reducer, no pwer out. Then tried a new one Mac's advertised. Single reducer for all three gage's. Same thing happened, quit working after a while (couple months).Got power going in nothing coming out of reducer. What's up??? Any help would be great. I would really like to use the old gage's but may have to swich to a new set.

 

[bugsiegel]

punching in here so I can watch this thread. Might be doing the same conversion soon. Have the same truck.

 

[Dobie]

Ford used 6 volt gauges up into the 70's and beyond. you need an 8.5 ohm resistor( this I found was a resister wire in pickups and purple in color) you need all of it a foot or so, and the IVR. Instrument voltage regulator. This is a small item that plugs or has snaps on it on the circuit board of a Ford intrument panel. It pulsates and cuts the voltage to around 5 volts. I've used this set up for ten years now without a problem.

 

[toby]

I used a voltage reducer similar to the one sold by Powerstream for my gauges. www.powerstream.com. Go to DC/DC Converters, 12V input, first one in the list (PST-DC292). The supplied ends are cut off and used in-line. I got mine at Radioshack years ago. They used to have them. I used it in my 51 F1 for the gauges. They have been working since 2006 with no problems.

 

[Karl Wolf]

Check out May, 2001 Rod& Custom magazine article... About 78 series transisters, they come in a variety of voltages- #7806 regulates 12v to 6v... They're good for about 1 amp ea, I am going to use one for each gauge.... AND, they're cheap, I bought a bag of them for about a dollar each... (auction site)
Karl

 

[19Fordy]

I the 50 Ford truck gauge cluster operates on the same principles as the 1940 Ford gauge cluster this will help. To make the 1940 ford BATT gauge work you need to isolate the BATT gauge from all the other gauges and insert a resistor in the line to reduce the incoming 12V to 6V. Two wiring sketches are shown below. Both will work, but it is better to use the one with the fuse block so as not to have too many wires attached to your ignition switch. I bought the resistors on line very cheap. I think Ford used the same technology for their gauge clusters up until they changed to 12V in the 50's. I thank Flathead Ernie for this information. Go to the posting that follows to see this clearly.

 

[19Fordy]

OK, for a clearer presentation Go Here: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48622&highlight=gage+wiring and scroll down to 19Fordy posting. You will see how I did the gauges in my 1940 Ford. A CVR (Constant Voltage Reducer) was used to reduce the incoming 12V to 6 volts for the OIL, FUEL and TEMP gauges. But to make the BATT gauge work it is isolated from the other gauges as shown in the diagram. If this resistor is not used the BATT gauge needle just stays in the middle of the gauge dial and will not give you a true reading. A resistor is used to drop the incoming 12V to 6 V for just the BATT gauge alone. Then the BATT gauge will work fine. I thank Flathead Ernie for all this knowledge and help.

 

[Ed Pitts]

I put one of these together this morning. Will test it out tomorrow. About $5 for the parts at Radio Shack. Ed

http://chris66dad.tripod.com/id29.html

 

[Shadetree]

I have a `51 F1 with a flathead 6 that has been converted to 12 volts with an alternator. It has aftermarket gauges and the originals left in place. I am changing out the 6 with a flathead V-8. Until I get it up and running and the bugs worked out it, will remain 12 volts. Then I will convert it back to 6 volts. I have rebuilt the generator and starter. I am not a purist per se but I like originality.

My `35 is 6 volt and it starts and runs fine. The headlights could be brighter but I don't drive at night. Halogen 6 volt bulbs are now available.

Shadetree

 

[Richard in Florida]

I've got a 50 F-1 and I'm trying to use the old gage's on 12 volt's.

If you send me your e-mail address via a PM, I will send you lots of details on a solid state voltage regulator. It works great in my '53 and costs next to nothing.