FYI-U-joint clam....Did you know.....
- Thread starter oldrelics
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DICK SPADARO
Well-known member
If you try and fill the trans thru the clam shell fill you are going to be in for a long time job. Yes the over flow of the clamshell will filter into the trans but the trans should be filled thru the shift lever hole or thru the inspection port on the side of the trans. You cannot rely on the rear main shaft bearing to be an open bearing, newer style bearings are shielded and may have been installed thus not allowing any fluid to travel between the trans case and the joint.. Clam shell takes around 4 1/2 oz of liquid lube to fill. NO grease!
Talkwrench
Well-known member
I'd like to know more about this mysterious part, mine has grease nipples on each clam? Many have said low melting point grease. Is there supposed to be a small amount of oil that comes into the clams from the trans? mine seems to leak oil from the area. I have seen it where the clams meet the torque tube, the cork seal area. In fact I tightened it up a little yesterday. I have the cork and the gasket to replace, just building up too it, and in a weird way inspecting the uni 
Fibber Mcgee
Well-known member
I went thru this a while back. There is a slinger on the rear trans bearing and if you overfill the u joint with low melt grease it will force its way into the transmission by bending the slinger. The problem is it will then go the other way to. A little will go back and forth even when working right but you need to fill the transmission from the side
Yea, I'm not trying to fill the trans through the clam, it just happened a little. I put two tubes of slurry in the empty clam and it just started to ooze in, nothing bent. I made my own slurry of grease blended with 600W until it just flows on its own, then repacked some empty tubes and got my 5YO son to pump it in. He had a great time!
, it just happened a little. I put two tubes of slurry in the empty clam and it just started to ooze in, nothing bent. I made my own slurry of grease blended with 600W until it just flows on its own, then repacked some empty tubes and got my 5YO son to pump it in. He had a great time!
David J
Well-known member
This is Ford spec for 1934 . Same for others . NOT HARD TO UNDERSTAND in my opinion .
Attachments
4oz for rountine maintenance, it doesn't say capacity for that one. Mine was completely empty from being rebuilt, 2 tubes was recommended here for empty....
4oz wouldn't do anything in an empty clam!
David J
Well-known member
Before you call factory info BS do this test . Take a ****** with u-joint attached and bolt the clams to it . Set it up at the approximate angle as in the car . Put 4 oz of fluid in the clams . AFTER you do this come back here and tell us again 4 oz does nothing in an empty clam .
rotorwrench
Well-known member
Oil & Soda Soap are not so easy to conjure up now days. John Deere "Corn Head" grease or other semi fluid greases will work OK for the torque tube type U-joint. This stuff will be fluid while movement is going on but lightly gelate when motion stops.
FlatheadTed
Well-known member
This has been discussed lots in the past .I filled a clam up to check its capacity ,it takes just one pint, but you do not want it completely full .If your seals are bad in the rear and axles you will get the level increasing .in the rear , These Uni joints lasted a long time in the past but were abused particly when high melt greases came along . When the mechanic did the 6 monthly grease up he put a few shots of grease in the Un zerk/Nipple this tended to seal the inside and reduced dripping from the claim ,then he topped up the tranz fluid .You will notice the tranz and motor slope back on a flathead so you got some spill over into the Uni joint this all mixed to gether and got the thing lubricated .I think the closest to Ford Soda soap Un grease now days is CV joint grease from a modern front wheel drive car some use Corn head, I used a home brew mix .Don't forget the front drive shaft bearing ,very important to have that lubed.
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