Fuse in headlight harness

[1955cj5]

I've been thinking about this for a while, I like the idea, but........

The fuse block works perfectly..you just need to move the jumper wire to the large terminal, and the harness fits onto the small terminal...

Looks a little busy in there though....I'm not sure if I like it....

I may have to hide it somewhere.....

 

[Y-Blockhead]

I have a sealed 20a circuit breaker for my lighting circuit hidden in the LF frame rail (red circle). I used the hood latch screws to mount it. The arrow points to the wire leading to the circuit breaker.

 

[Art Newland]

I still like the idea of splitting the circuit for the headlights instead of having it in series with the rest of the cars electrical system. Not quite sure how to implement it however.

 

[Y-Blockhead]

I still like the idea of splitting the circuit for the headlights instead of having it in series with the rest of the cars electrical system. Not quite sure how to implement it however.

Art, Just put a fuse/circuit breaker in the yellow wire from the generator cutout/alternator to the light switch as I did in post #2. That will put a fuse in the lighting circuits (headlight, tail light, etc.) I have a 30a circuit breaker for the main and 20a for the lighting.

 

[Bruce Adams]

Might an IN LINE FUSE work as well and not be so obvious?

 

[Art Newland]

Art, Just put a fuse/circuit breaker in the yellow wire from the generator cutout/alternator to the light switch as I did in post #2. That will put a fuse in the lighting circuits (headlight, tail light, etc.) I have a 30a circuit breaker for the main and 20a for the lighting.

That's not a bad setup, but what I don't like is the ignition system (and maybe a dome light) being fused for 30 amps. Say you had a circuit, shorted to ground, in your instrument panel. But was only drawing 29 amps.The poor little wiring would not last long. An energized coil pulls about 4 amps, so the Model A's electrical doesn't need to be fused for 30 amps... until you turn on the lights. Certainly adding a fuse at the starter switch is a good start. I know I'm overthinking this, Model A's have done fine for 80+ years, but I bet there has been a few go up in smoke.

 

[Jim/GA]

I've been thinking about this for a while, I like the idea, but........

The fuse block works perfectly..you just need to move the jumper wire to the large terminal, and the harness fits onto the small terminal...

Looks a little busy in there though....I'm not sure if I like it....

I may have to hide it somewhere.....

Those open style fuse holders with the spring clips are notorious for eventually having a poor connection and causing electrical problems.

As mentioned above, much better off to use a sealed, weatherproof inline fuse in the wire that feeds the headlight switch off of the generator. Hiding in the frame rail seems smart. If you have a short (repro brake light switch on a '28'/29 is common problem) it will kill the lights but not the ignition.

 

[C26Pinelake]

Those open style fuse holders with the spring clips are notorious for eventually having a poor connection and causing electrical problems.

As mentioned above, much better off to use a sealed, weatherproof inline fuse in the wire that feeds the headlight switch off of the generator. Hiding in the frame rail seems smart. If you have a short (repro brake light switch on a '28'/29 is common problem) it will kill the lights but not the ignition.

What Jim says makes a lot of sense. Wayne

 

[katy]

I put an inline 30A fuse coming off the starter stud and also inline 20A fuses in both the headlight wire and the horn wire coming off the generator.