fuse fuse fuse

DANA BIZZELL

DANA BIZZELL

Senior Member
Back on the road again thanks to Ford Barn guys. Complete rewiring, new light switch, terminal box, ammeter, pulled light switch rod which would turn
but could not pull out, installed new wire, and timed her. did not find short. Want run without fuse again. special thanks to TW.
Thanks
Dana
 
Still learning from you guys. Why don't you want to run a fuse in the system? Advantage or disadvantage? Seems it would be easier to change a fuse than a wiring circuit?:eek:
 
The original ammeter was a 20 amp 'fusible link'. That is the way they were designed. So often the system gets "fixed" by hobbyists who rewire the ignition switch, they install a 30-0-30 ammeter and/or an alternator without any cutout.

FWIW, I can tell of three instances where customers have spent large sums of money having a vehicle professionally transported to/from us due to engine running issues that were traced back to faulty fuse set-ups mounted on the starter. Those are absolute junk! To put things into perspective, imagine spending $750 for transport each way to a shop that charged $25 to repair an electrical issue that local mechanics could not find. My point is it usually is the added reproduction junk that we install to make our cars better that causes reliability issues with our cars.
 
The only semi-serious electrical problem I've had in 53 years of Model Aing was due to a fuse block on the starter on a car I had recently bought. I was stuck about 5 miles from home. I removed the fuse block and threw it into a nearby dumpster, wired the car as it should have been wired, and drove home. I never found what blew the fuse, but I never had any trouble with the car after that, for over four years before I sold it. I've never run fuses on any kind on my cars. But I make certain they are all wired correctly and safely, and check regularly for possible shorted areas. Just my personal experience. Your mileage may vary. But I like 'em stock, and I run 'em as close to that as I can. (Except for the whitewalls on my coupe. But I bought the car like that, and the tread is good, and at almost $700 for new rubber I'll run these till Nellie comes home. Then I'll get some blackwalls!)
 
1930 coupe said:
I am looking at a original ammeter and I cannot find the fusible link. I see a thick heavy piece of brass. Are you saying the brass bar will melt before the wires, or am I missing something?
Click to expand...

Yep.



Mitch//pa said:
someone needs to get their head examined if they would transport a car for 1500.00 to fix something like that.
Click to expand...

Maybe to you, ...but we see vehicles shipped from all areas where the freight is as much as the repair bill. It is all about what is important to an owner.




700rpm said:
The only semi-serious electrical problem I've had in 53 years of Model Aing was due to a fuse block on the starter on a car I had recently bought. I was stuck about 5 miles from home. I removed the fuse block and threw it into a nearby dumpster, wired the car as it should have been wired, and drove home. I never found what blew the fuse, but I never had any trouble with the car after that, for over four years before I sold it. I've never run fuses on any kind on my cars. But I make certain they are all wired correctly and safely, and check regularly for possible shorted areas. Just my personal experience. Your mileage may vary. But I like 'em stock, and I run 'em as close to that as I can. (Except for the whitewalls on my coupe. But I bought the car like that, and the tread is good, and at almost $700 for new rubber I'll run these till Nellie comes home. Then I'll get some blackwalls!)
Click to expand...

And evidence of yet another one! :eek: :p
 
www.funprojects.com/products/AFK-1.aspx

You need a sealed fuse holder since the mounting is right where water and dirt can enter the car as you drive or wash the car. The ammeter does not contain a fuse and may or may not burn up before the wiring does. Systems are fused at 25% more than the normal "carry" current which on a Model A is 20 amps. Thus the correct size fuse should be a 25 amp fuse. If you use a smaller fuse you may experience "nuisance blowing" of the fuse caused by repeated excursions of operating current that is near the fuse rating. Having a fuse that is open to the elements is kinda asking for it to become an intermittent fuse holder and you soon hear snorting and backfiring if the fuse holder gets dirty. The earlier fuse holder also used the wrong type of wire connectors on it that also get loose. My company makes the Voltage Regulators for T, A, V8, and N tractors so I end up being on the phone with lots of folks who have had issues with the fuse holder that is not sealed to the weather. The fuse holder at that location is a good idea but the wrong type of fuse holder and connections were chosen for the implementation. Get a sealed fuse of 25 amps and SOLDER it into the main heavy yellow wire feed and you should never have the problem again of it being intermittent.
 
Brent,
Even if that is true why do you want to risk destroying original ammeters instead of installing a quality fuse somewhere?
 
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