Full flow oil filter

Lawrie

Lawrie

Well-known member
I have just finished another full flow setup on my spare engine,
this time I made my own bulkhead fitting through the side of the oil pan as I was to cheap to go out and buy one as I usually do,plus we are not supposed to go out, it turned out way nicer .
Any one interested in a drawing of it.
Lawrie
 
Ya, I want to do a full flow on my ‘51 F1. Anxious to see your drawing. Thanks for offering to show it and thanks in advance.
 
Lawrie, I'm always impressed with the things you come up with and accomplish in your shop. So I'm always interested in seeing things you do on these old Ford's.
I need to get a '36 LB engine together this summer for one of my cars, and I'm trying to determine if I'm even going to go with a filter, but if I do, would I go for a full flow system.
 
Got the inside stuff done and assembled today, I have a dummy assy of the oil pan and will make the outside filter mount tomorrow and pipe work, I allready have a set of the tubes pre bent .
First you have to block off the outlet port of the pump,I do this by tapping the outlet port thats between the two gears 12x1.75, then loctiteing in a grab screw, then drill a new outlet port 1/2 in) through the bottom plate of the pump, then I make a 3/8 thick plate to cover this with a 1/2 hole to match and a viton O ring to seal it, then make and silver solder on the right angled fitting for the outlet,make the bulkhead fitting and hose and thats the inside done,
There a couple of spanner(wrench) flats on the outside of the fitting that protrudes through the oil pan, the reason for this is when you put the hose onto the bottom of the oil pump and then around onto the bulkhead fitting you obviously have to tighten it before the oil pan goes on, you then tighten the nut on the outside, you need the flats and a 3/4 spanner to stop the fitting turning and winding up the hose inside the pan,
The hose and fittings are aero quip high temp ones ,
I have these on both my old fords and have put them on about 10 other customer engines.
the filter is a stock ford falcon one.
Lawrie
 

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Lawrie


A friend here in town has been doing a "True" "FULL FLOW" oiling system for flatheads for several years........mostly on the 8BA's (and a few 59AB's i think).
 
I did one of these back in the 60's when it was posted in one of the Magazines . I know it's better than the 95% but simpler. Now I found out that the Fram filter is a piece of Cr**. At one time considered the best, now I use Wicks, until someone cheepens that one.
 
Filter and tube work done
I forgot how long it takes to make all this stuff up and fitted nice.
I get my filters from the local ford dealer,motorcraft ones,,Looked at the box today ,made in China, damm.
Lawrie
 

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Another thing I found today when pre lubing the oil system and checking the pressure.( I use a remote pump and filter driven by my electric drill)
I find there are two styles of relief 01A-6663, one has one flat to lube the cam gears and the other has two flats.
Using the same 01A-6654 spring the twin flat will drop the oil pressure by 10 psi and sure will lube the cam gears as you want to see it pour out.
I also have a pile of 01A-6654 springs and these are two different ratings, one sets the press at 55psi and the others at 40 psi,
My thinking is maybe the twin flat came into service at the time the oil pump displacement was increased, same as the spring rate change.
I,m using an 8ba style with the relief on the pump,this seems set at around 75 psi.
My plan is to use the two flat relief and adjust the pressure on it to 45-50 psi, and adjust the pump relief to 60 psi.
Just a bit more useless info.
Lawrie
 
I think Ford mad a big mistake when they moved the relief from the end of the supplyline to the pump in 49. At least the pressure on the gauge represented the pressure in the system, snd not just what comes out of the pump.
<ost engine failures occur on the 1/5 crank throe.
 
Lawrie said:
Another thing I found today when pre lubing the oil system and checking the pressure.( I use a remote pump and filter driven by my electric drill)
I find there are two styles of relief 01A-6663, one has one flat to lube the cam gears and the other has two flats.
Using the same 01A-6654 spring the twin flat will drop the oil pressure by 10 psi and sure will lube the cam gears as you want to see it pour out.
I also have a pile of 01A-6654 springs and these are two different ratings, one sets the press at 55psi and the others at 40 psi,
My thinking is maybe the twin flat came into service at the time the oil pump displacement was increased, same as the spring rate change.
I,m using an 8ba style with the relief on the pump,this seems set at around 75 psi.
My plan is to use the two flat relief and adjust the pressure on it to 45-50 psi, and adjust the pump relief to 60 psi.
Just a bit more useless info.
Lawrie
Click to expand...


My take on that relief valve.
When ever I rebuild an early block I close that front relief thus eliminating the reduced oil supply going to the front bearings. In all of the many engines i have built for others as well as the flatheads I run in my daily drivers closing that forward relief location has had no detrimental effect ever. The idea the front gears need oil is not really valid however what is valid is that additional oil splashing around will find its way to the very small holes that allowed splashing oil to get into the bushings in the water pumps pre 1949. If your still running the old bushing water pumps the additional oil splashing around is needed if you have the newer reproduction pre 1949 design water pumps they now come with sealed bearings this design is similar to the 1949 and latter water pumps which have bearings. Bottom line oil needs to go to the engine bearings especially the ones located at the very end of the oil supply line. And as an example of the reliability of a pre 49 block with the above mentioned modification the 59A block used to power my roadster has traveled across America two times and back plus an additional many thousands of miles with no timing gear wear plus that cam gear is turning the additional load of the ARDUN overhead valve conversion you be the judge.
Ronnieroadster
 
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Ronnie,
I had never run the external pre lube pump on my engines before with the oil pan off,( I had just pre lubed them with the 5ltrs for the oil pan)
I used a couple of clean tins under the pump and up the front,so I could see where the oil exited when the relieve valve opens, with the 8ba style pump.
I had a play around this morning using two different r/v springs and the two or one flat relieve valves itself,
Also the one on the pump.
I ended up leaving the one on the pump at 60psi and used a single flat one in the front relief valve, this one I set at 50 psi .
I ran probably about 5 gals of oil through the engine doing this.

Lawrie
 
Lawrei
I appreciate all the effort you're doing here with the oiling system. I don't think anyone has done an extensive test on the system. I found in track racing that the #1 and #5 rod bearings were the first to fail in the 8ba style blocks. Si I inlarged the hole in the feed line to the bearings. Not sure if thast helped but food for thought. Keep us informed.
 
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