Full flow oil filter
- Thread starter qmdv
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Ronnie
Well-known member
What do you rely on for the bypass?
Is it in your housing as your filter only has a anti drain back and no bypass.
http://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/convert/REPCO/ROF3
R
While I'm not suggesting this be done due to many considerations I went through the trouble to go 100% by plugging the rear main passage in the block and drilling a new one up to the rear cam bearing so oil is fed to the rear main the same way as the front and center mains get fed. Fuel pump pushrod and bushing is removed and top of hole is plugged. Cam is a Schneider that does not have the slotted rear journal. The rest of it is the typical 95% method and I have the filter mounted upside down on the firewall.
59 block BTW. I had my reasons for doing this. Oil pressure is a bit lower due to the added loss past the rear cam bearing as it is now pressure fed.
Flat32
59 block BTW. I had my reasons for doing this. Oil pressure is a bit lower due to the added loss past the rear cam bearing as it is now pressure fed.
Flat32
1 Raggedy Ride
Senior Member
Greetings to all, I researched most of the above while trying to decide between the 95 % Ford system & the 100% Full Flow systems....using the Ford system, someone sells a oil dip stick tube Flange, with an added threaded connection, for a oil return line .....(no drilling & tapping of the block required)......I choose, as mentioned above, the 100% system by Flathead Speed & Machine......(no modifications to there new oil pump and the engine block are required) Besides that, I will only have to remove the oil pan, and drill one hole, in the pan, since my engine is still in the car.....
JSeery
Member Emeritus
I'm not following this, what "oil return line"? The Full Flow systems do not use an oil return line that I am aware of. I am assuming you were referring to the attached setup from Flathead Speed & Machine? The only connection to the oil pan is the pressure line out of the oil pump. That fitting then connects (through the filter) to the original oil pressure sender location at the rear of the block. Oil return to the oil pan is through the normal drain back internally through the block.
"using the Ford system, someone sells a oil dip stick tube Flange, with an added threaded connection, for a oil return line" Is this referring to the By-pass Oil Filter" setup?
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Ronnie
Well-known member
None of that would be required if you chose a filter with a internal bypass such as a fram ph8a. But I know you have the smarts to fabricate what you require.
I am sure your setup will work as you have the bypass in the system.You are known for your talents and tuning capabilities.For the average member here they need to know use the off the shelf remote adapter with 3/4x16 threads(the belly button adapter) and you then just grab any ford filter up into the 90's thread it on and you are good to go.The fail safe is that most early gm filters have 13/16" thread and won't fit the adapter.
Keep up the good posts and all the best to you and your family in the Christmas season.
R
Ol' Ron
Well-known member
I won't go into the filters or the difference in filter systems. What I'd like to do is just give those interested in the stock systems, so they get an idea what's involved in modifying the original system.
It works like this. Oil comes up from the pump body into a chamber that feeds the rear main and a tube that runs down the center of the block. From there in passes down through the cam, into the crank, were it apsses into the connecting rods. and that's it. There's a few sneeky lubrication designes the engineers thought of as well. The leakage from the gear eng of the oil pump feed the rear can bearing. on 8BA style they have a hole in the snout that gets oil from the front cam bearing.
Now Last but not least the original filter steals oil from the bearings and runs it through a filter and back into the pan. OH!! I forgot something the early engines got their water pumps oiled from oil thrown off the cam gear. These old guys didn't miss a trick, change oil every 1500 miles and they'll last forever.
It works like this. Oil comes up from the pump body into a chamber that feeds the rear main and a tube that runs down the center of the block. From there in passes down through the cam, into the crank, were it apsses into the connecting rods. and that's it. There's a few sneeky lubrication designes the engineers thought of as well. The leakage from the gear eng of the oil pump feed the rear can bearing. on 8BA style they have a hole in the snout that gets oil from the front cam bearing.
Now Last but not least the original filter steals oil from the bearings and runs it through a filter and back into the pan. OH!! I forgot something the early engines got their water pumps oiled from oil thrown off the cam gear. These old guys didn't miss a trick, change oil every 1500 miles and they'll last forever.
1 Raggedy Ride
Senior Member
I am sorry, I didn't be more clear in my reference to the 95% system, ( whatever % you want to call it), is the Ford Factory oil filter that was mounted on the drivers side, on top of the cylinder head, received oil from the rear of the engine, then leaving the filter, drained back into the oil pan, thru the engine oil dip stick tube Boss, p/n 59A-6751, which has an internal threaded connection, for the filter return line, besides the one for the dip stick tube.....Van Pelts, C & G Ford parts, are just a few, who sells them......I am using the Flathead Speed & Machine System, that you have photos of your post.....