fueling a 1935 ford
- Thread starter jack99
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Mike in Mass
Well-known member
my brothers 35 ,5 window is the same way .You have to fill it really slow , or it burps back at you 
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
The '35 gas tank has a vent tube on top of the hydrostatic sending unit that's mounted on top of the tank. There is an access door in the rear section of the floorpan directly over the gas tank.
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Neal
Senior Member
Park it so the left side is high when filling. It helps.
I don't have the hydrostatic sending unit on mine and I have not seen a vent tube on the top of my tank. My sending unit is with a float and resistance; aftermarket and doesn't work that well but that is for another time.
I don't have the hydrostatic sending unit on mine and I have not seen a vent tube on the top of my tank. My sending unit is with a float and resistance; aftermarket and doesn't work that well but that is for another time.
richard crow
Well-known member
if some one converted it to a elect gauge you no longer have a vent , get a 36 filler pipe it fits with no mod & is vented
flatheadfan
Well-known member
This a common problem especially with '35s. To get around this
I came up with two easy solutions. Note the pictures.
The simplest type is simply welding a 1/4" o.d. tube (brake line tube
is o.k.), inside the existing neck and intruding beyond the neck itself.
This will prevent about 90% of any back-ups.
The second type is a little more complicated but prevents 100% of
back-ups and you can fill the tank as fast as possible.
You will need to drill an extra hole in the tank near the fuel
sender outlet. I used a 3/8" bit . I then used a brass 90 degree elbow
with a short 1/2" piece of copper tubing on one end. It is a good idea
to make a small piece of gasket material for a seal or use a good
liquid sealer. Insert the threaded part of the elbow into the hole and
attach the brass female cap (with copper tube attach) on the inside of
the tank. I know this sounds difficult but if the drilled hole is
close to the fuel sender hole you can get the cap on with a minimum of
difficulty. Tighten the cap/elbow. On the top side of the tank connect
another 1/4" copper or steel tubing (about two inches long) to the
brass elbow. I added a brass bushing to the tube on the end to make
for a tight hose fit. You are now finished with the tank. Next drill a
1/4" hole in the fuel neck just below the fuel tank opening cap. Add a
6-8 inch piece of 1/4" steel tubing. Insert one end of the tubing in
the previously drilled hole. Weld this tube at the top and bottom. I
also added a 1/4" bushing to the end of the tube. Finally, just
connect the two tubes with a piece of fuel resistant hose with some
clamps and you are done!
Oh yes, one more thing. To get the neck off the tank (these things can
be troublesome), you will need a spanner wrench (note picture) and a
couple of days of an oil penetrative such as Kroil. Putting it back you
will need a new lead seal ring.
Hope this helps.
Tom
I came up with two easy solutions. Note the pictures.
The simplest type is simply welding a 1/4" o.d. tube (brake line tube
is o.k.), inside the existing neck and intruding beyond the neck itself.
This will prevent about 90% of any back-ups.
The second type is a little more complicated but prevents 100% of
back-ups and you can fill the tank as fast as possible.
You will need to drill an extra hole in the tank near the fuel
sender outlet. I used a 3/8" bit . I then used a brass 90 degree elbow
with a short 1/2" piece of copper tubing on one end. It is a good idea
to make a small piece of gasket material for a seal or use a good
liquid sealer. Insert the threaded part of the elbow into the hole and
attach the brass female cap (with copper tube attach) on the inside of
the tank. I know this sounds difficult but if the drilled hole is
close to the fuel sender hole you can get the cap on with a minimum of
difficulty. Tighten the cap/elbow. On the top side of the tank connect
another 1/4" copper or steel tubing (about two inches long) to the
brass elbow. I added a brass bushing to the tube on the end to make
for a tight hose fit. You are now finished with the tank. Next drill a
1/4" hole in the fuel neck just below the fuel tank opening cap. Add a
6-8 inch piece of 1/4" steel tubing. Insert one end of the tubing in
the previously drilled hole. Weld this tube at the top and bottom. I
also added a 1/4" bushing to the end of the tube. Finally, just
connect the two tubes with a piece of fuel resistant hose with some
clamps and you are done!
Oh yes, one more thing. To get the neck off the tank (these things can
be troublesome), you will need a spanner wrench (note picture) and a
couple of days of an oil penetrative such as Kroil. Putting it back you
will need a new lead seal ring.
Hope this helps.
Tom
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VeryTangled
Well-known member
Hi Everyone, Jack99, it sounds like your buddy has a clogged vent, but since you asked for any info here it comes...
I agree with GM. Here's what I try with my '36. Snapped this morning while prepping for the AACA meet.
I go about half way OR LESS on the flow, not full bore like is the routine on my modern cars.
I also don't typically fill more than 3/4 full because I've seen six or eight cars that have been filled to full, only to have the fuel expand and overflow while the car is parked in the sun which does ugly things to the paint.
When you look at the next '35-36 look around the filler and tail light. Few (non-trailer-queen) vehicles are pristine in that area!
I even saw a '36 in the car corral this year, parked on a slight right-to-left angle, that puked fuel and ruined the paint, I think a Folkstone Grey car. They had a bumper jack nearby where they had tried to scramble to raise the driver's rear corner to avoid more damage.
Saw a maroon Phaeton two years ago in the Green field on level ground with a FOR SALE sign on it, just sitting there with a puddle under it, paint looking like a fried egg. I even tried to call the owner just to be a nice guy.
Let's not talk about the fire hazard.
BTW, who sells a car with a full tank of fuel???? Seen it on '36's two of the last three years I've attended Hershey.
I usually fill by the gallons. Often just seven gallons. I don't ever rely on the pump to sense the vapors and cut off. Of course that won't work because of the way I hold the nozzle out of the filler.
If I know I'm going on a long drive I'll do more. But you still have to watch out for hard right turns (often as you leave the fueling station) which will puke it out onto the fender too!
I agree with GM. Here's what I try with my '36. Snapped this morning while prepping for the AACA meet.
I go about half way OR LESS on the flow, not full bore like is the routine on my modern cars.
I also don't typically fill more than 3/4 full because I've seen six or eight cars that have been filled to full, only to have the fuel expand and overflow while the car is parked in the sun which does ugly things to the paint.
When you look at the next '35-36 look around the filler and tail light. Few (non-trailer-queen) vehicles are pristine in that area!
I even saw a '36 in the car corral this year, parked on a slight right-to-left angle, that puked fuel and ruined the paint, I think a Folkstone Grey car. They had a bumper jack nearby where they had tried to scramble to raise the driver's rear corner to avoid more damage.
Saw a maroon Phaeton two years ago in the Green field on level ground with a FOR SALE sign on it, just sitting there with a puddle under it, paint looking like a fried egg. I even tried to call the owner just to be a nice guy.
Let's not talk about the fire hazard.
BTW, who sells a car with a full tank of fuel???? Seen it on '36's two of the last three years I've attended Hershey.
I usually fill by the gallons. Often just seven gallons. I don't ever rely on the pump to sense the vapors and cut off. Of course that won't work because of the way I hold the nozzle out of the filler.
If I know I'm going on a long drive I'll do more. But you still have to watch out for hard right turns (often as you leave the fueling station) which will puke it out onto the fender too!
Attachments
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