Fuel type

Gene B.

Gene B.

Junior Member
Getting my first A. What fuel do I need to run. High/low octane? Does ethanol hurt? If going to set for a week or so, do I need to add gas stabilizer? Have you ever added a little diesel to the gas?
 
welcome to the barn and congrats on your A
a. cheapest stuff you can find
b. you can run ethanol most of us do, but if you have non ethanol available your better off with that
c. no stabilizer needed if sitting a week (same as your modern car)
d. some guys add MMO marvel mystery oil and some use nothing
 
I agree with Mitch. Run 87 octane fuel without ethanol. Ethanol screws up carburetors. It is a solvent, and any crud that has collected in your fuel tank will end up in your fuel filter. Avoid it at all costs. I'm thankful there's a gas station a couple of miles from me that sells fuel without ethanol. If I have no choice but to fill up with that garbage, I will add Marvel to the tank.
 
Mitch could not have put it clearer. I run gas with ethanol (I have not found any non-ethanol options for 100 miles). I have had no trouble with ethanol, except my gas gauge float went bad.

From what I have heard, the biggest risk from ethanol is if your gas tank was chemical lined back in the 70s. That lining can turn to goo.
 
Run the cheapest unleaded.

One of the reasons that Ford made the Model A such a low compression ratio, i.e., 4.22 to 1, is so the engine would run on the cheapest lowest octane fuel available back in the day. The lowest octane available today is by far greater than what was sold in 1928.
 
edmondclinton said:
Run the cheapest unleaded.

One of the reasons that Ford made the Model A such a low compression ratio, i.e., 4.22 to 1, is so the engine would run on the cheapest lowest octane fuel available back in the day. The lowest octane available today is by far greater than what was sold in 1928.
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68 Octane was 'hot'stuff' in the Model A era, low Octane gasoline today is 87..... a car today probably wouldn't even run on 68 gas. period:eek:

Today's fuel will do fine in a Model A Ford.
 
Thanks for the replies. Another quick question for a "green as a gord" Model A owner. Actually have not already taken delivery on the truck. Motor has a samll oil leak (drips underneath- probably back main seal) and so does differential. Dealer said he never had one that did not have a small leak of some kind.
 
Gene B. said:
Thanks for the replies. Another quick question for a "green as a gord" Model A owner. Actually have not already taken delivery on the truck. Motor has a samll oil leak (drips underneath- probably back main seal) and so does differential. Dealer said he never had one that did not have a small leak of some kind.
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Most do leak somewhat. Some do not. The old A is not a modern car, keep track of all her fluids and lubricants often and everything will be just fine.
 
Don't be too quick to take your Model A apart where it's dripping. You may wish to place a drip pan underneath the vehicle to see how much it's actually dripping. Shouldn't be a problem.
Rog
 
My 28 never left drips until a couple years ago. Now the rear leaks a few ounces over the 6 months of winter. Certainly not enough to tear it apart, so I just check it before the driving season, as a person should do with each oil and grease job.
 
Model As don't leak oil but they do mark their territory!!
Ignore a few drops and do as Tom says, check her fluid levels now and then. A little incontinence is expected at their age.
 
There is no rear main seal in a stock engine. Motor oil leaking out of the rear main while the engine is running is slung into drain in the rear bearing cap and gravity takes the oil back into the pan. Some of the motor oil overflows into the flywheel housing and goes out onto the ground through the radius rod ball socket.

Oil also leaks out of the transmission front main shaft bearing and it also goes out through the front radius rod socket.

The crankcase ventilates trough the breather tube on left side of the engine. If the tube is clogged or restricted, crankcase pressure will push more oil than usual out through the rear main bearing.

Look at some vintage pictures of roads and take notice of the dark stain down the middle of each lane. The stains are from motor and transmission oils leaking out of period automobiles.
 
Mitch//pa said:
welcome to the barn and congrats on your A
a. cheapest stuff you can find
b. you can run ethanol most of us do, but if you have non ethanol available your better off with that
c. no stabilizer needed if sitting a week (same as your modern car)
d. some guys add MMO marvel mystery oil and some use nothing
Click to expand...

That covers it.
 
Join a local club. Tell us where you live. Take lots of pix and post them here. Welcome to a great hobby!
 
Childress, Texas. Been trying to get truck delivered for over month. Suppose to be headed my way in couple of days. Worse than any kid waiting for Christmas.
I will let you guys rest for a couple of days, but sure will have multiple questions once it arrives.Enjoying this already!
 
whirlinwilly said:
They don't make "Depends" for Model "A's"
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They don't make depends for the model A but Snyders sells the next best thing. Snyders lists a rear main janator that slips over two of the bell housing bolts and one of the flywheel dust cover bolts. This handy device does a good job catching oil drips so that you no longer have to apologize for the model A marking its territory. This part lists for $19.95 , part # A-6768 and is on page A-127 of the Snyders catalog. Works very well.
 
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