Fuel shut off valve

Lenny Bruce

Senior Member
Good morning all! So I noticed that even with my fuel valve turned in the off position gas still slowly fills my fuel sediment bowl. It will take days to actually fill it to the top but my concern is come winter storage I’d prefer this not to happen. It’s a ‘30 Tudor with the shut off valve under the dash. Do I need to drain the tank before replacing the valve or is their a easier route to take?
 
A grease is available for gasoline valves or any other moving part immersed in gasoline. It is called EZ Turn Lubricant, see link below. This will help seal the valve and prevent the slow leakage you describe. If the valve is severely worn it is best to replace it as it is difficult to lap the parts together to get a good seal. You do need to drain the tank.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/ezturnlube.php
 
if you can't get your original one to seal, be aware the reproduction fuel shut off are not very good. I picked a new reproduction one up at a swap meet and it leaked worse than the original one! I ended up polishing the seat of the stock one in a lathe. works great now.
 
Suppliers have rebuild kits for these. While your at it order a new pencil filter. It goes onto the valve inside the tank to keep junk from getting into the fuel system.
I was fortunate and bought a replacement that didn't leak. Think I got it from Mike's. Chap https://www.mikes-afordable.com/
 
Yes, you will unfortunately have to drain the tank and hope you can get out the old shut off valve. Alternatively, you can install a secondary shut off (modern) before the carb. While not original to the car, it adds some great safety. If you need, I can take and post some photos.
 
A grease is available for gasoline valves or any other moving part immersed in gasoline. It is called EZ Turn Lubricant, see link below. This will help seal the valve and prevent the slow leakage you describe. If the valve is severely worn it is best to replace it as it is difficult to lap the parts together to get a good seal. You do need to drain the tank.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/ezturnlube.php

Thanks nkaminar. This grease works great.

I also put a little on my carburetor throttle shafts to lubricate and prevent vacuum leaks. Especially helpful on Marvel Schebler carbs where replacement shafts are N/A.

It is a little on the expensive side but with the amount you use and the size of the tube, it should last you the rest on your life.

 
After you drain the tank jack up and block the RH side of the car about 6" so that the tiny bit of gas left in the tank will migrate to the other side. It wouldn't hurt to put a catch pan underneath the valve "just in case".
 
I must be losing it. I thought I posted a picture of my secondary shut off valve earlier. I used a valve from the hardware store.

51813372134_c5308c5be5_z.jpg


Bratton's sells a similar set up.
 
Good morning all! So I noticed that even with my fuel valve turned in the off position gas still slowly fills my fuel sediment bowl. It will take days to actually fill it to the top but my concern is come winter storage I’d prefer this not to happen. It’s a ‘30 Tudor with the shut off valve under the dash. Do I need to drain the tank before replacing the valve or is their a easier route to take?

The 30 Fordor I recently bought must have the same problem. There's a secondary shut off valve between the firewall and carb. Honestly I usually leave it open unless I'm not gonna drive her for a few days. I love running errands in her.
 
Hey that’s slick! Thank you I’m going to do just the same. I’d buy a replacement if it were leaking in the car and not just slowly letting gas through. Also if their were a “good “ reproduction. Unfortunately I don’t have to luck of buying a one in a 100 good repro so I’ll add the second shut off as you did. Thank you! You all are making my Model A experience 10 times more enjoyable.
 
I'm on my 3rd shut off valve under the dash in less than 2 years. I've had it with it. Everyone so far has not leaked on the floor but they don't fully close and gas gets through to the carb and leaks all over the garage floor and the fumes are unbearable. It doesn't matter what vendor I get them from either. The one that is on now I just put on back in the fall and the car sits for 6 or 7 months over the winter typical Pa. weather. The stupid gas valves are $25.00 a piece. It's not a hard job replacing the valve but it's the draining the tank that is a pain in the neck. Were these lousy valves this bad back in Henry's days?
 
I have a similar setup. It’s been six months and no more fuel in the carb. However it is getting a little gritty and harder to turn. Suspecting sediment is still getting into the valve.
 

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