I have a new 40 Ford replacement tank from "Tanks." It's even made in the USA. My only problem to resolve now is how to use my new (Macs) 6v - 6 hole sending unit. The new tank has a smaller sending unit outlet and only 5 threaded holes. I'm sure I'm not the first to face the situation. How do Barners dance to that tune? Thanks.
fuel sending unit
- Thread starter Kentf1003
- Start date
19Fordy
Well-known member
I drilled and retapped the "TANKS" tank to accomodate the original sending unit.
But you can also buy an adapter plate. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1935-1956-Ford-Fuel-Sender-Adapter,5865.html But you could also make your own.
But you can also buy an adapter plate. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1935-1956-Ford-Fuel-Sender-Adapter,5865.html But you could also make your own.
34flathead
Senior Member
i took my new sending unit with 6 holes and marked the plate with the 5 hole gasket, drilled it, after a few fitment adjustments it bolted down fine.
rich
rich
Lawson Cox
Well-known member
Don't you wish these folks who "reproduce" old parts would make them exact where everything would fit. P_ _ _ _ _ me off big time.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
Researching the Datcon sender that Yogi's sells calls out a 73-10 Ohm unit. According to the available information that is 73 Ohms empty and 10 Ohms full. I have never experimented with a Ford gauge to see how it would work with a resistance unit. In theory it will but what resistance level will bend the strip to different levels is an unknown to me. Accuracy would also be in question. Considering all else that's available, it might be worth a try.
Kerby
Kerby
19Fordy
Well-known member
Blown49 explains how sending unit works in this thread.49-51 Merc operate the same as the early Ford sending units using a bimetallic strip that heats up and cools off in conjunction with the stock gauge.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15262&highlight=gas+tank+sending+unit
rotorwrench
Well-known member
Rather than a variable resistance device that is more common now, they used a variable current device. It works more similar to a voltage regulator. It was a good reliable system but no one makes any reproductions of it so now we have to make due with what ever will work, if it will work.
Flat Ernie
Senior Member
A variable resistance unit WILL work with the original gauge. I don't remember the resistance range that works (70-140 springs to mind, but...). What you're doing is averaging the current through the circuit instead of full-on, full-off with the original chopper circuit.
All of my 12V converted cars have 6V CVRs running the gauges and all have modern sending units from Mac's (variable resistance) and all are very accurate and reliable. I'm too tired to explain it tonight, but there were several threads on the old barn where I explained how/why it worked...
19Fordy
Well-known member
Thanks Ernie,
When you get a chance please post the info on " where I explained how/why it worked" regarding the gas gauge and sending unit. Your tech stuff is always excellent and much appreciated by all. Your VOLT guage info is "golden."Thanks, JIM
FL&WVMIKE
Well-known member
Lawson Cox .......................
These vendors that are reproducing these parts are making them for the street rodders, who don't want to use the old original senders, etc. Perhaps, they buy more of the tanks than the restorers.
Of course, they will sell you an adapter plate.
MIKE
These vendors that are reproducing these parts are making them for the street rodders, who don't want to use the old original senders, etc. Perhaps, they buy more of the tanks than the restorers.
Of course, they will sell you an adapter plate.
MIKE
Flat Ernie
Senior Member
I did several searches of the archives, but no combination of search terms would produce the old threads...bummer.
I'll try to write it all down again...short version is the bi-metallic strips bend based on heat generated by current. The stock stuff "regulates" the current by going on-off-on-off with a full 6volts. The variable resistance units work by changing the resistance which changes the overall current. So instead of "averaging" 6V & 0V by opening/closing a specific number of times in a second, the variable resistance senders just lower the voltage.
I'll try to write it all down again...short version is the bi-metallic strips bend based on heat generated by current. The stock stuff "regulates" the current by going on-off-on-off with a full 6volts. The variable resistance units work by changing the resistance which changes the overall current. So instead of "averaging" 6V & 0V by opening/closing a specific number of times in a second, the variable resistance senders just lower the voltage.
The sendor for old Fords, advertised by YOGI (made in Budapest, Hungary) appears to swing from a round shaft at the bottom of the tank, instead of swinging from the top like the old Fords. (Their resistor sits at the bottom of the tank and the float/arm extends out and up.) You have to shorten the round shaft to fit the height of your tank, they say (ranges from 6-24 inches). They also say that since fuel tank senders only read resistance to ground, theirs work on all 6-24 volt systems, positive or negative. Their resistance is 73 ohms on empty and 10 ohms on full. For what it's worth.
Lawson Cox
Well-known member
Lawson Cox .......................
These vendors that are reproducing these parts are making them for the street rodders, who don't want to use the old original senders, etc. Perhaps, they buy more of the tanks than the restorers.
Of course, they will sell you an adapter plate.
MIKE
Then they should not advertise that it works with original style gauges.
Flat Ernie
Senior Member
But they can work with original gauges...if the resistance range is correct. I cannot remember that range and none of my senders are out of the tank available for me to test at the moment.
