Fuel pump

Rui I am afraid you will have to raise engine using a hoist if you have one.as the rest is the only support for front of engine.besides the 4 bolts 2 each side of block.I am pretty sure the 2 horizontal bolt at bottom of rad support where it attaches to rad support will allow you to remove the support.manual calls for removing rad hoses.I have done it (50) years ago with out draining rad and undoing rad hoses if you can hoist motor only high enough to relieve weight of motor on steady rest allowing you to remove steady rest(motor mount)as in any short cut watch the strain on hoses.if you do not feel you can do this without putting too much strain on hoses then I would take the hoses off.this adds to time to do but may save you from doing damage.BUT a hoist will be required to lift motor.so much for a simple job:mad:another thing on list of can do have done.think of it as a job you may never have to do again.
 
Barry, thank you for keeping up with me. I answered also on the hamb but will duplicate here so other people can find what I did if in need.

I have already managed to remove the pan.
As you had proposed, I rebolted most of the pan and used another jack to support the engine on the front. Then I removed that rest and took the time to wire brush it clean along with the silent blocks (with petrocleaner). Then I very slowly started relieving the jack to see if the engine moved. It didnt, not even a mm. Then I removed the pan not before I had to rotate the cranckshaft a bit with a wrench to get the pan to clear the n.º6 piston's rod.
Covered the engines guts with a piece of plastic so nothing would enter there, lowered the car and used the jack again to support the front part of the engine, just in case.
Pics attached are the remaining oil on pan (redneck solution works great), the engines crankcase, the 51 shades of gray on the pans oil muck (about 2 inches thick).
Cant thank you and the other guys enough.
Tonight is cleaning time and hopefully, tomorrow, the machinist will solve my plug's problem.
Regards
 

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glad to see you got it off funny when see that it looks like it looked coming out of the ground.as for cleaning those kinds of things is to use diesel fuel I find it works excellent for that.the new diesel here at least does not smell like the old days I think less sulphur?I did not take 54 for drive today in sympathy for you.to be truthful we had 3 nice days I cleaned and waxed woke up today temperature dropped and a strong wind said to hell with it pulled back in garage shut it off.I was going to watch the Bristol race wouldn't you know raining
 
Hehe, thanks for the thought Barry, I appreciate it.
I am in fact anxious to drive her and test the new shocks and so..
The pan is clean and at the machinist to remove the plug.
As to diesel, doesnt it leave "fat" deposits? At least I sense that.
My main concern now is to clean the underside of the block to get the sealant to stick. Lacquer thinner?
I did notice what you said previously concerning straightening the pans rim ONLY on the slightly risen areas around where the bolts go. Somebody overtightened the bolts leading to slight warping on those areas. Ok with the cork gasket, not ok with the sealant.
I have already carved a wooden kind of cilindrical rod dolly (wood but hard as steel - exotic wood) to flatten those areas straight with the rest of the pan. Will give it a shot tomorrow ("Redneck" diy rules, right Jimz?)
But tonight I'll clean the engine's bottom.
Regards
 

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Rui those raised area would have caused problem with the cork gasket also.rain here for today and tomorrow.as to the fat residue I have never had that here.possibly your diesel is different.I know they claim people run their diesel's on old cooking oil.lacquer will work I also use alcohol(not vodka:D).the pan looks good and clean.let the sealant set for a day to let it set up as I said I prefer a gasket for the pan with the trouble to remove if it does not set up.just do not over tighten pushing the sealant out.
 
OK Barry, I'll use it on the outer half of the rail, trying no to push it inside the pan at torque.
Lets see how it goes.
Lots of cleaning to do tonite.
I'll report back later.
Regards.
 
like I said let it set up you should be good to go.the reason is once you put it back on and bolt up no or very little air to cure so longer the better.if not cured the oil will seep out leaving no bond.once cured the oil will not affect it.also make sure to fill the indents to help hold it.you mentioned making your own cork gasket that is what I would do.
 
My thoughts also. I'm looking for a sheet or sheets large enough for a one or 2 piece gasket.
Lets see how it goes.
Thanks barry.
 
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