Fuel pump

RCM

Senior Member
Hi there guys.
1956 223 six
My double action fuel pump started leaking bad from at least one of the (~8) bolts securing the pumps lower body to the top portion and also housing the diaphragm I believe. I can see gas coming thru the threads of the bolt. I'm gonna rip it apart and replace the gasket.
3 questions:
- In what position will the actuating arm/lever be when I remove the pump from the block and what should I be concerned about when throwing it back on?
- What will happen when I remove the bolts and open the housing? Will a hoard of springs and the diaphragm jump to the floor?
- If I come to need an electric or alternate fuel pump, what will be the desired pressure for my holley 1904 1 bbl carb?
Thanks for helping.
Regards
 
Anyone?
Maybe this pic will help. That bolt leaks when the car is running.
Thanks
 

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Ok I'm going out on a limb here since I haven't opened up a fuel-pump since I can't remember when....
I'm pretty sure that the leaking 'gasket' is the outside edge of the fuel pump diaphragm. :(

The actuating arm/lever is spring-loaded and the pump will come off the block with the arm all the way up, or down, depending on how it's built. Pay attention to which way the arm/lever spring pushes the pump housing as you're undoing the mounting bolts (up or down) and put it back in the same way. Or, with a flashlight look inside the timing cover before you put it back in and put the 'wear surface' of the lever against the outside of the eccentric ring/disc. You'll probably have to align the pump to it's mounting holes by pushing the lever against it's spring

There could be a medium sized spring inside the pump against the fuel diaphragm but it won't go far unless it rolls off your work bench.

Someone may make rebuild kits or maybe the parts or pump are the same as in another car (v8?)
I don't know. The only fuel pump rebuild kits I've seen cost more than a replacement pump.
Hopefully someone else knows where to find what you need.
.
 
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RCM ! If I were you, I would NOT replace that pump with a new pump. The new pumps are only available in 5-7 lbs PSI output pressure. That is waaaaay too much pressure for the Holley to take. The pressure will overcome the fuel inlet needle and submerge the float causing flooding immediately. So to correct that, you will want to install a fuel pressure regulator, and set the pressure at 1.5 to maybe 2 lbs PSI. The diaphragm in the regulator will not be able to withstand the backpressure very long and it will become permanently stretched, rendering it useless.
Try removing the bottom housing retaining screws and install a lockwasher on them and tighten well to see if that fixes the leak. Run the engine and check for leaks.
The most likely place where leaks occur with these pumps is at the brass fuel inlet adaptor fitting. Do not ever remove and re-install a used fitting like this. The threads are tapered and become crushed when tightening into the inlet housing.
If it does become necessary to replace the pump, cannibalize your old pump for its actuator and springs, but use the new diaphragm and actuator pin. That should allow you to retain your current output pressure.
 
BTW, if you do need to remove and re-install the pump, make it easy on yourself. Loosen, but do not remove pump mounting bolts, then rotate the engine crankshaft until the eccentric on the camshaft is at it low contact point with the pump actuator. This will remove the tension between the actuator and camshaft allowing you to re-install more easily and without messing up your mounting gasket
 
BTW, if you do need to remove and re-install the pump, make it easy on yourself. Loosen, but do not remove pump mounting bolts, then rotate the engine crankshaft until the eccentric on the camshaft is at it low contact point with the pump actuator. This will remove the tension between the actuator and camshaft allowing you to re-install more easily and without messing up your mounting gasket
Am I asleep or what?

RCM

Unless you've had your engine apart, here's a photo of what the eccentric ring on the front of the camshaft gear looks like.
This one's on a y-block but they have the same function, to operate the fuel pump lever.
 

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Rui while you are at it pull oil dip stick check for gas smell by rubbing your dip stick between fingers if it smells of gas or seems very thin. I would not run engine as diaphram may have ruptured and be dumping fuel into engine.if it is ruptured after re and re of pump drain oil.another thing in regards to kit make sure it is compatible with gasahol if your gas is diluted with the new 10-15 E fuel we have.
 
Guys, I appreciate the insight, pics and help, I really do.
The possibility of tearing the pump apart scares me a bit, since I dont have a diaphragm at hand. That is probably the issue since it leaks through the bolts so maybe the gasket (diaphragm) is cracked, like dmsfrr said. Its not the brass fuel inlet Dave55, that one keeps dry.
On the other hand there are the issues Dave55 mentioned regarding fuel pressure. There's not a clear way to go around it I see. The replacements Rockauto offers let ou fuel at 3,5-4,5 lbs.. Too much, right?

I'm still gonna try using sealant on the bolt's thread, but that wont do any good if things are going the way 54 vicky is saying (oil getting diluted).

I dont require a OE solution and am only concerned about getting her runnin right and steady, so I'm also thinking about and electrical inline fuel pump.
Who runs them and how are they?
Thank you.
Regards.
 
The replacements Rockauto offers let ou fuel at 3,5-4,5 lbs.. Too much, right?

From Pg 10 of the shop manual.
"The static pressure should be 3.5 - 5.5 psi at 500 RPM."

Also, it is easier to install if the eccentric is at the top. I don't remember which cylinder should be at TDC to place it there.
 
OK Jimz, thanks, 54Vicky already tipped me on bumping the car (like you do to get the points to open and feel them with the gauge I believe) to get the eccentric to move so that the arm of the pump via its spring doesnt move the body up or down much, and also so that putting the pump back in and aligning the gasket with sealant comes out an easier and more perfect task.
I appreciate the input.
Regards.
 
Rui,

All in all, I agree with Brodie that it is less expensive and much less trouble to go with the mechanical replacement.
The eBay link you gave though is for a single action. That will, of course, pump fuel but will not boost the wipers. If you use one of those just don't floor it to pass someone when it is raining, especially when going uphill.:)
As a side note. I grew up in Lisbon although it was Lisbon, Ohio not Portugal. I had a 56 Customline in the 60's with the single action and we got a lot of rain. It was tricky to drive in the rolling hills of SE Ohio in the rain.
 
Rui,

All in all, I agree with Brodie that it is less expensive and much less trouble to go with the mechanical replacement.
The eBay link you gave though is for a single action. That will, of course, pump fuel but will not boost the wipers. If you use one of those just don't floor it to pass someone when it is raining, especially when going uphill.:)
As a side note. I grew up in Lisbon although it was Lisbon, Ohio not Portugal. I had a 56 Customline in the 60's with the single action and we got a lot of rain. It was tricky to drive in the rolling hills of SE Ohio in the rain.
Jimz he has or will be installing electric wipers.that was a good tip you guys are all giving good info.you forgot to mention needing a change of underware if you drove in rain for any length of time on those hilly road LOL
 
:) Heck I was like, oh man, finnaly a connection. Someone knows Portugal, but then again no.. You should come here when you have the time. Its very pleasant. Good food, wheather and lots to see, but you wont find much detoit steel..

I'm converting a VW wiper motor to use on the Ford. I'll create a thread on it so other people can have an option.
Shipment and custom fees are outrageous for the Newports. It would end up over 300€!

I thank you all for the input as usual and will keep you updated.

Regards
 
Replaced the OE fuel pump with the airtex 4208. Runs great, no carb flooding. Left if runnin with no issues for some 20 min, so I guess i'm out of the woods.
I'm draining the oil right now so I can drop the pan and replace the freezed plug.
Check out my redneck solution. It takes quite a bit to suck it all out (a whole afternoon) but this way I can solve the issue at home. Just create and maintain vacuum in the system.
Thanks for helping.
Regards
 

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looking good if things are like they are over here stick a old looking label that say's vintage liquid set out in open.I do not think you will find it anymore:)
 
Yes, same thing here. That one and many other old things were found at our house when we bought it. Its an old house that we rebuilt (coins from were also found). It was a 1 1/2 year very rewarding and hard journey. At a point we only had the limestone walls and a gigantic pile of debris. It wasnt fun at all at that point but we stood by each other and got it done.
Tomorrow I'm gonna drop the pan. Haven't driven her for a month or so, but its almost there.
Thanks for helping.
Regards
 
Yes, same thing here. That one and many other old things were found at our house when we bought it. Its an old house that we rebuilt (coins from were also found). It was a 1 1/2 year very rewarding and hard journey. At a point we only had the limestone walls and a gigantic pile of debris. It wasnt fun at all at that point but we stood by each other and got it done.
Tomorrow I'm gonna drop the pan. Haven't driven her for a month or so, but its almost there.
Thanks for helping.
Regards
I washed mine yesterday today started waxing and polishing it.my old knees and back said enough for today I will finish it tomorrow.I will then take her for a drive after her long rest over winter.I do not feel to bad about you not driving for a month:D we are not as lucky with our weather as I told you about.:D
 
Replaced the OE fuel pump with the airtex 4208. Runs great, no carb flooding. Left if runnin with no issues for some 20 min, so I guess i'm out of the woods.
I'm draining the oil right now so I can drop the pan and replace the freezed plug.
Check out my redneck solution.

Good to hear.
I enjoy following your successes.
So they have "rednecks" in Portugal also.
Well, from a real redneck in VA to another in Portugal we would say;
"You done good boy." :D
 
RCM, the fuel pressure problem I described only applies if the carburetor has had the fuel inlet fitting replaced with a modern part from one of the rebuild kits. I believe I mentioned it in more detail in one of our private message correspondences.
Glad to hear you don't have that problem.
 
Thanks for helping out guys, I appreciate it.
You're correct Dave, the carb has been rebuilt with the modern rebuilt kits available, but neither the fuel inlet fitting, nor the needle valve could withstand the pressure on the old ac fuel pump and flooded the carb, So i'm using the old much better ones.
Now I'm dealing with another issue =)
Check out the pic attached.
The oil pan is free and pretty much empty. Redneck solution worked out fine.
I have only but two center bolts holding it AND TWO DARN HIDDEN BOLTS ON THE FRONT END of the pan (See green arrows)
From where I stand there is only one way to get them out so I can drop the pan, and that is to remove this tubular support / bracket (Red arrows).
Now's the dilema: isnt that part of the engine's support? Wont it tilt forward?
The bracket also is used for radiator shell.
I can unscrew the two bots holding the pan but I dont have clearance to remove them.
Help much appreciated as usual.
Thank you.
 

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