Fuel pump question

roadstar

Member
Can I use the later style fuel pump with the sediment bowl on my 21 stud engine.

I had some debris in the tank when I got the truck and want to monitor what's coming out. I have an after market inline filter on just before the pump now but it looks like crap with the stock engine.

Thanks.
 
Yes i have them in stock rebuilt. Only the original "AC" ones can be rebuilt. Aftermarket ones cannot. And mine contain a pleatted filter in them. Ceramic stones are not availible any more. These filters can be changed when dirty locally availible.ken ct PM or EMAIL/
 
Yes you can use the latter pump with the glass bowl on the early engine. The screws on the top can be removed and the top oriented to where you want it. Put a paper filter and a spring to hold it in place in it. I don't have the parts number of the filter. The spring looks like the one in a flash light for the batteries. Airtex makes a good reliable pump for about $50.00 available from Napa and other parts stores. Change the screws in the top with the old pump, the new pumps have hex heads. I buy new SS filister head screws from McMaster-Carr. G.M.
 
And your going to get a $50 pump that can never be rebuilt,a throwaway. Buy only "AC" marked pumps.They can be rebuilt. ken ct.
 
You can buy parts from Airtex. Better than some untested rebuild. If you don't want to rebuild it buy 2 and carry a spare they are cheap enough. I have Airtex pumps running for 5 years or more with no problems. G.M.
 
Thanks for the input guys.

Ken I think its time to get with you for a correct carb anyway as well, and we can talk about my fuel pump options as well. My engine isn't 100 point correct but I would like it to look like it may have came that way to most people that don't know the difference.
 

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I gather Ken has rebuilt many, many pumps. Given that, plus the fact I haven't read any complaints here or elsewhere, suggest that his pumps are at least proven.
 
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Be aware that the later style fuel pump with the glass sediment bowl usually has an interference problem between the glass bowl and the driver's side spark plug wiring loom. I have seen a lot of early looms with the back cut short to clear a later fuel pump.
 
You can buy parts from Airtex. Better than some untested rebuild. If you don't want to rebuild it buy 2 and carry a spare they are cheap enough. I have Airtex pumps running for 5 years or more with no problems. G.M.

$50 cheap enough? Not all of us live in your world.
 
Be aware that the later style fuel pump with the glass sediment bowl usually has an interference problem between the glass bowl and the driver's side spark plug wiring loom. I have seen a lot of early looms with the back cut short to clear a later fuel pump.
I use a glass bowl on my 36 an have no problem with the wire loom.And inlet and outlet are positioned in the stock2 an 4 o'clock position.You can always turn the top to any position you want. Ive got hundreds of pumps out there and very few come backs. Everybody has a come back once in a while i dont care who or what it is but it happens to everybody into rebuilding. OMO ken ct.
 
I also use the later '47-'48 glass bowl fuel pumps on my '35's with original 21 stud engines. I rebuilt maybe six or eight of these pumps in '05-'06 with new parts as necessary and some good help/advice from Ken ct on correct diaphragm material to use, how to pick correct springs to use under the diaphragm, what type of gasket material to use at the glass bowl, where to get filters for the bowls, plus some of his "trade tips" on to make them reliable etc., etc. I was determined (hell bent) to build my own pumps just because it was something I was annal enough about doing myself just to prove to myself that I could do it. Did the some thing with about 12 Stromberg carburetors with help from Ken ct and Uncle Max. Again, just because I wanted to understand all or most of the ins and outs of how they function and to prove to myself that I could do it successfully and correct. After, I had all these pumps and carbs completed, and the smoke cleared, it probably wound up costing me more to build these myself than it would would to have just sent my cores to these guys and let them do the rebuilding, If I ever need more done that's more than likely the road I will take. My thinking now is to let the pros do the rebuilding of components they are most familiar with, while I do something else on my projects. Ken showed us the special diaphragms at Rhinebeck that he puts together to make these pumps work reliably for many years. So, long story short, let the guys here who specialize in rebuilding these components do their thing while you concentrate on something else needed to get your projects completed. While I am thinking about this, here are some recommendations for folks here in the Fordbarn community who can do you good...IMO

Fuel pumps = Ken ct
Carburetors = Ken ct, Uncle Max, Charlie ny, and 1952 Henry (not necessarily in any special order of preference)
Distributors = Bubba, Ken ct, Charlie ny, Skip H. (ditto on preference note above)
Water Pumps = Skip H.
Coils = Skip H.
Shocks = Bill Wzorek
Engine rebuild = Ole Ron (if you could get him), Walt Dupont, Mark Moriarty (sp) not sure he posts here, JWL he posts here but not sure he would offer his services to everyone
Transmissions = Mac VanPelt, Charlie ny
Rear Differentials = Charlie, ny, Mac VanPelt?
Steering boxes = Charlie, ny, Mac VanPelt?
Brakes = Richard Lacy
New/Repro/NOS Parts & Services = Dick Spadaro, Roy Nacewicz, C&G, Bob Drake, Dennis Carpenter*, Joblot*, Joe's Antique Auto Parts*, Speedway Motors*, MAC's*
New/NOS Parts & Services = Mac Van Pelt, Charlie ny

* not active Fordbarn members (to my knowledge)

I'm sure in my haste to post this info I have missed someone/somewhere who is a great FB member and provider of good service to this community and should be on this list. Please feel free to correct/update my info on this post in any way you think appropriate.
 
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