fuel pump push rod

dewert

dewert

Member
I have a 40 and I want to change the fuel pump push rod. Is it difficult and is there a secret to it? Thanks for any help.
 
NO ,you can remove the FP and stand as a unit,its sitting right there just pull up. Use a new gasket on the stand when you put back. ken ct.
 
Once you remove the fuel pump stand the push rod will be sticking right up, the baffel tube will pull up with it, some times the tube sticks, you might have to pry it up a little with a screw driver under gasket. Walt
 
Does the push rod normally need changing? Reason I ask is, Mine doesn't seem to be actuating the fuel pump at all. The rod itself does bump up and down when the engine is cranked. I'm puzzled. The motor runs great for a few seconds when I use a squeeze bulb to fill the carb.
 
Wonder if someone installed the wrong pushrod. According to the "Green Bible" there were 2 different fuel pump push rods. Part # 48 9400-A is fuel pump push rod which is 8.872" long and is used with cast iron valve chamber cover That is for Pass-90HP (8cyl.) 1932-48 and for Comm,Trucks -90HP (8cyl) 1932-47. There is also fuel pump push rod #48 9400-B which is 7.872" long and used with aluminum valve chamber cover. That was used on Pass-90 and 100HP (8cyl) 1932-48 and Comm, trucks- 90 &100 HP (8cyl) 1932-47. (Valve chamber cover refers to intake manifold.)
The 60 HP engine used still another length push rod. The one with the alum. valve chamber cover is 5.625 " long and the one with the cast iron intake manifold is 6.375 " long. Source: Page 420 You may also want to remove the fuel pump stand with fuel pump and see that the fuel pump actuating lever is not broken in some way. Also be sure you are using the correct fuel pump stand - part# 48-9415. It's called Adapter (fuel pump mounting.) There may be a part # cast into it. I doubt very much that your cam lobe for the push rod is worn down.
 
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While you have it off check the fuel pump stand base to see if it is warped. If it is warped it will reduce your fuel pump rod stroke more than a worn rod will. There is not all that much travel to begin with.

Here is a photo of a fuel pump stand with a flat base bolted back to back to a warped one. Ford made the base of these stands way to thin. Never buy a used fuel pump stand without first checking the base for warpage.
 

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I had this problem with my 40 PU back in '95--It started being hard to start-I took out rod installed a 6v elec pump in gas line at rear--left old fuel pump on for looks(I was told it acted like a pressure regulater)--no matter how long the truck sat I turn on the fuel pump(used seperate switch)waited till it stopped & the old flat head started right up--just a thought-worked great for me:)-Ken
 
Good info!

So, when I set the stand on the engine, is there a good amount of preload that holds the stand off the bolts? Mine sits flat and if I crank the engine with the nuts left off the mount, the stand just sits there. I would think it would jump a bit... I did verify that the lobe on the cam does move the rod. Rod just doesn't seem to actuate the pump.

If I use a squeeze bulb to feed the carb the motor does run nicely, even seems to idle. I just did rings, rod bearings, and lapped valves.
 
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The real test for this is with the nuts of ,crank it over till the oil filler lifts just over 1/4 about 5 1/16 .a old trick was to put a bit of lead in the arm cup .but this often is needed because the elbow on the actuator arm is warn.You can lengthen your rod a little with weld but with a new pump kit it shouldn't need it .All the Gaskets need to be in spec including the manifold one ,
 
I got everything to fit in after I had enough brains to look down and see the hole where the rod is supposed to fit. Put on the rebuilt fuel pump, hooked everything up and NOTHING!!!. No fuel is pumping out. Not sure if I need to prime it some way or if I did something wrong when I rebuilt it. I made a gasket because I did not have one. Maybe it is to thick? I realized the arm does not move much so maybe something is out of wack. Any help again will be appreciated. Thanks for all of your help.
 
46ford said:
Good info!

So, when I set the stand on the engine, is there a good amount of preload that holds the stand off the bolts? Mine sits flat and if I crank the engine with the nuts left off the mount, the stand just sits there. I would think it would jump a bit... I did verify that the lobe on the cam does move the rod. Rod just doesn't seem to actuate the pump.

If I use a squeeze bulb to feed the carb the motor does run nicely, even seems to idle. I just did rings, rod bearings, and lapped valves.
Click to expand...

The pump is spring loaded and should jump up and down if loose. The push rod is too short or some part is wrong. Is the lever on the pump hard to actuate? It should be pretty stiff to move.
I check pumps by putting my finger over the discharge and cycling. You should get pressurized air at the discharge.
 
Dewert .With the nuts of on the oil filler ,When you turn the moter the pump and oil filler should lift up of the manifold ,you hold your hand lightly on the top to take up the spring tension ,as you wind itL go up and down if you don't end up with a gap of about 1/4 at the gasket line then lengthen the rod.At this stage You can also push up and down on it and it should start pumping (for priming ) with carb line removed ,
 
I have made my push rod adjustable.
here's how.
The central part is tubular. Cut through it and file the ends square. Tap both parts 5/16" UNF. Cut the threaded part off a long bolt and use it to join the two parts together. In between the two parts insert one or two 5/16" washers. Once inserted, the washers may want grinding down slightly to clear the tube inside the oil filler tube.

By altering the number of washers you can fine tune the length of the rod to your particular setup.

Mart.
 
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