Fuel line check valve

Dick C

Dick C

Junior Member
Any one know where to get the fuel line with the check valve? I bought one years ago but can't remember where.
 
Dick....do you mean "stop-****" or tap that fits in the fuel line in order to turn the supply of fuel on and off ?
 
Thanks JM. Yes its the gas line that goes between the fuel pump and the main gas line that stops the fuel from running back into the tank.
 
Dick C said:
Any one know where to get the fuel line with the check valve? I bought one years ago but can't remember where.
Click to expand...
I've never quite grasped the need for one of these and classify them in the "snake oil" file.
If your fuel pump is operating correctly, the internal check valve will keep the pump primed.
This hose with the check valve will only keep fuel in the pump, not the line going back to the tank. Anything before the check valve is not effected.

The bottom line is - this check valve hose is a "band-aid" installed to correct a faulty fuel pump. My vote is to spend the time and monies to repair the root problem.
 
Cars are not all the same. Cold start and hot engine are not the same.
Fuel injection and carburation are not the same. Rochester and Holley are not the same. If one car does lose it's prime in certain conditions not a big issue.
Look at the dash and remember which car you are starting, if it is in the drive way most likely it will be a cold start. If in a parking lot, most likely warm engine.
Get to know your cars and starting will not be a problem.
Bruce
 
Guys I think it's Robert Shewman in PA. I bought the gas hose that goes from pump to carb and it does work. It's got some type of a check valve in it I think.

610-933-6637
 
mike42 said:
Guys I think it's Robert Shewman in PA. I bought the gas hose that goes from pump to carb and it does work. It's got some type of a check valve in it I think.

610-933-6637
Click to expand...
It goes TO the fuel pump and no doubt it works. Of course, as an "option" repairing your fuel pump "works" just as well.
 
There is a caution that comes with the valve, that the gas tanks must not have any debris or rust. Any debris or rust can clog the line faster than a stock line.

The fuel inlet of the fuel pump is above the fuel level, so gas cannot siphon back to the tank. Most problems with being hard to prime are due to vacuum leaks in the supply side of the fuel pump. These can be lines that the ferrule has not been soldered. flex lines that have small leaks or the gasket for the sediment bowl. These leaks will not leak gas, just air. The input valve in the fuel pump can also leak, and the pump will not hold enough vacuum to pull the fuel into the bowl when cranking with the starter. All of these will not affect the fuel delivery when the engine is running as the strokes are close enough together to overcome these small leaks.

I doubt that the check valve will help, except in the case where the fuel pump sediment bowl gasket or input valve is the problem. In these cases, it will work until the leaks get bad enough to fail when the engine is running. A new flex line will also fix many of these problems.
 
TomO said:
There is a caution that comes with the valve, that the gas tanks must not have any debris or rust. Any debris or rust can clog the line faster than a stock line.

The fuel inlet of the fuel pump is above the fuel level, so gas cannot siphon back to the tank. Most problems with being hard to prime are due to vacuum leaks in the supply side of the fuel pump. These can be lines that the ferrule has not been soldered. flex lines that have small leaks or the gasket for the sediment bowl. These leaks will not leak gas, just air. The input valve in the fuel pump can also leak, and the pump will not hold enough vacuum to pull the fuel into the bowl when cranking with the starter. All of these will not affect the fuel delivery when the engine is running as the strokes are close enough together to overcome these small leaks.

I doubt that the check valve will help, except in the case where the fuel pump sediment bowl gasket or input valve is the problem. In these cases, it will work until the leaks get bad enough to fail when the engine is running. A new flex line will also fix many of these problems.
Click to expand...

Yes sir! Very well stated...
 
Some folks have problems with leaky float bowls in the carburetor too. Leaks can be internal so that they are hard to detect. This makes the pump have to work a bit to get the bowl filled back up. A check valve won't help with this problem.
 
Dick C
Rotorwrench. Kube, and Tom O are giving you good advice.

Bruce
The best thing about old age is that it does not last long.
 
Selling a check valve hose to prevent "drain back" simply drains your wallet. As Mike, Tom, and others have pointed out, the oneway valves in a properly working fuel pump already do the job. Fuel pumps are often damaged by alcohol in gas if they are not using nitrile material for the diaphragm and internal valves.
 
If you want to stop "drain back" don't you have to put your valve at the end of the line ie in the tank?? If you want to keep the column of water in yr well pump, you make sure the foot valve isn't leaking!
 
How does the gas "drain back" out of the carb ?
as the gas gets pumped into the carb there is a check valve that the gas passes through then free falls if you will into the fuel bowl filling it. So there should be no way that the gas in the bowl should be able to get syphoned out because as soon as the gas drains back to the tank from the bowl and gets lower then the inlet of the carb the syphone action is lost and the bowl should still have enough gas in it for the engine to start.
If not and the bowl is empty then that gas is being lost else where.
So there may be more then one problem /unless some one can tell me that it takes more then a bowl full of gas to get the car started.
 
I believe Mr Shewman says his check valve aids in starting with this ethanol fuel...I bought one and it didnt seem to help....
 
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