Fuel leak

palmaceae

palmaceae

Member
Hello all,
I am about at my wits end, I have a fuel leak inside the car where the fuel line connects to the sediment bulb (re-manufactured). When I bought the car there was a slight leak so I bought a new sediment bulb and new fuel line inside. When I installed the new one, it leaked so while tightening it up to stop the leak, it stripped the threads. I used teflon tape, I used the gasket sealer that Synders sells, still leaks. I put the old one back in (that was stripped also), still leaks. The new sediment bulb stripped so easily, definitely not well made. The shutoff valve does not leak, just the sediment bulb side.
Anyone have any ideas what I can do? Maybe an original sediment bulb would work? If so where can I get an original or a better made one?
Thank you,
 
I have been there with the same problem. You will now probably have to buy another sediment bulb as you suggested, but also a new fuel line to be safe.
You may also have to lap the flared end of the fuel line to the sediment bulb using very fine lapping compound, even down to tooth paste used on stained dentures.
Sometimes the tubing flare nut has been improperly machined, where the fitting threads are just not long enough to seal the tubing flare to the sediment bowl.
If there is an actual problem with either the fuel line fitting, or sediment bowl, let your supplier know so that he can get on the manufacturer's case to see that the problem is corrected.
 
If the fuel line has a soldered on Flare be sure to check that the solder job is not leakig.I had that problem and it was leaking at the solder joint.RAY
 
Make sure the cast iron sediment bowl is clean on the inside, and buy the insert filter for that style of bowl.
 
When trying to align the inside fuel line to the sediment bowl remember that there is a slight downward angle from the shutoff valve to the sediment bowl. You have to take this into consideration when lining everything up. I am a newbie and it took three new sediment bowls before I got it lined up without stripping the threads. The other thing I learned (slow learner) was not to tighten the nut at the shutoff valve until everything at the sediment bowl was tight. Also, be sure the battery is disconnected when working on the fuel line.
 
MBI Houston said:
When trying to align the inside fuel line to the sediment bowl remember that there is a slight downward angle from the shutoff valve to the sediment bowl. You have to take this into consideration when lining everything up. I am a newbie and it took three new sediment bowls before I got it lined up without stripping the threads. The other thing I learned (slow learner) was not to tighten the nut at the shutoff valve until everything at the sediment bowl was tight. Also, be sure the battery is disconnected when working on the fuel line.
Click to expand...

VERY GOOD ADVICE!!!!!!

Been working on this old stuff for more then 50 years and this is how you do it.

Chris
 
The shade-tree way:

This old-timer sometimes uses string and Ivory soap. Strip the string across the soap a couple times, then take a few turns around the end of the line (behind the ferrule but in front of the nut), then tighten firmly but don't reef on it. If your threads aren't completely mangled this might work for you.

If you have to replace everything, remember you have a pipe thread there; get both ends started before you tighten things up, and then work evenly back and forth until things are snug. Turn on the gas; if it leaks, snug it up some more until the leak stops.

I've used teflon tape in both instances, and I've found the string method to be just as effective either way.
 
Start the sediment bowl first, then the valve. The sediment end is at at angle with not much room to push the line to the right oriantation while the valve side is a relativly straight shot and much easier to align. Just my experience. Yours may vary? Good Luck!
 
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