Fuel Gauge Restoration

johnr9q@yahoo.com

johnr9q@yahoo.com

Senior Member
Trying to clean my fuel tank out so I removed the fuel gauge. Like someone suggested, I bought the Les Andrews Mechanics Guide (which is very helpful) and it says to soak the glass in lacquer thinner to loosen it. I did but it still wouldn't come out. I banged a punch on the backside and still no luck. I'm sure someone has previously posted the answer and I used the search option to find it, but no luck. Can someone tell me how to use search effectively?
 
What are you trying to accomplish, clean the glass? Very old gas lead-stained the glass after years of use, but modern gas will remove that stain with use. It may take a few months, but it will clean the glass to like new.
 
Did you remove the small star nut from the front of the gas gauge to reveal the black metal bezel? After removing that nut, I have had the glass and bezel just pop right out in my hand when pushed from the back side.

The bezel has a small tab that sits down in a hole in the gauge body, so the other side of the bezel needs to come out first.

Previous owner, wanting to ensure no gas leak at the gauge, may have glued the glass and gasket in with a serious sealer that lacquer thinner does not touch... in which case maybe you just leave it?
 
I pulled it out to clean the tank and I figured when I put it back in I would need new gaskets. The kit came with new glass and the Bezel. My bezel is messed up so I want to replace the glass and bezel.
 
Just to be sure I understand you do have the inner nut removed?
 

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This is what Bob C is asking about.....have you got one in your hand?
 

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It is super important that the fuel gauge glass does not leak. A leak and a spark from the ignition switch or other source and things can get ugly.
 
Hello , recently repaired my gas gauge, I found that the stamped metal sight gauge did need filing at the area were the tab meets the outer diameter as it didn’t fit into the slot on gas gauge, also added a extra brass ring on assembly, was a post on the repro outer nut not being able to tighten done on gauge, might want to do a search on ford barn for that.
 
a little oil or a tiny smear of light grease on the mating surface will let a little slippage when you assemble the gauge. if not the gauge will want to rotate as you tighten and it's hard to hold the unit horizontal in the opening.
OU
 
I recently discovered the issue with the key on the reproduction ring not fitting deep enough in the notch in the mating part. I used a dremel tool with a small burr to deepen the notch so the ring would fit flat. Took a few tries to get it to fit correctly.
 
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