Fuel gauge floats that don't float???

As mentioned before, the "original" brass float was found to have 3 pinhole leaks, when using the "almost boiling water" method of testing. Curiously, it had not really filled-up with much gas, as you could only barely hear and feel anything sloshing-around inside the float, after removal and testing. In fact, it still floats fine in water, at least.

The curious thing is that the aftermarket unit that I used to replace the first one with immediately sank to the bottom of the tank, upon installation, and stayed there. I've since removed it and leak-tested it, with no problems found, and no evidence of gas having gotten inside it! Go figure!

In order to "move on with my life", and, to get my gauge working again, I decided to chicken-out and install a new cork piece onto the rod; then added a second one, for a total of two of them. There's currently only a couple of gallons in the tank right now, and the gauge is moving around (as in floating) and it's reading exactly at 1/4-tank, which is where it should be for a 10-gallon tank.

And, no, it's not "leaded" fuel... I haven't seen that available anywhere here in California in years!
 
To install double corks on the gauge unit, I first straightened-out the long wire piece, and slid Cork #1 down it a few inches; then I re-bent the wire back (with a 90-degree bend) to make it as it was in the first place. I then installed Float #2 onto it's usual location (on the short part of the wire); installed the tiny retaining washer; then hammered the end of the wire flat (to keep the washer and Cork #2 in-place). I then slid Cork #1 back up the rod so that it was now up against Cork #2. I then put a slight Z-shaped bend into the wire just below Cork #1, so that it won't easily decide to slide down the wire towards the actual indicator-end of the gauge unit.

I probably should have taken a picture of it, before installing it into the tank, but hopefully, you can now visualize it. It's not the best-looking thing, but it'll make sure that this thing floats (for at least as long as both corks last)!
 
One cork will work fine. I installed my cork float on my 29 Tudor in 1993 and it still works fine, even after using the crap gas.

Will the second float hit the filler screen?
 
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Could it be that some repro floats are made with to thick of gauge of brass sheet and the amount of bouyancy in the small float can not over come the weight?
 
Well, I had been thinking the same thing; that is, that the size of the brass float (on the currently-available reproduction gas gauge units) is too small to counteract the weight of the wire arm, and therefore, it sinks. I only know that the size of the brass float that my original gauge was converted to was much bigger in overall size, so much so that it barely fit through the hole in the dash.

As far as any part of my cork "double-float" hitting the filler screen, it does not appear to do so, but probably only because I bent the whole thing out towards the passenger-side of the tank a little bit extra before inserting it, simply for this reason.
 
This thread reminds me of a problem my little brother had once. He had a car that had a leak in the oil pan maybe several leaks. He took it off and welded them up. Filled the pan with water when he was done to test his work and everything looked fine. Put it back on the car and when the oil warmed up it leaked worse than it had before. Had to take it back off and do it again, the second time he tested it with lacquer thinner, seems that the surface tension of the water is much higher than that of warm oil. In the case of the float water might not be the best thing to test for leaks. I haven't had a problem with the plastic float.
 
So, where did you find a plastic float, to convert your gauge? Was it just taken from some carburetor? Or, do you know of an actual conversion kit being offered out there? Also, how was the plastic float attached to the wire (if not a kit intended for our application)?
 
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