Fuel gauge float question

yes. Buy the good steel tools from the vendors if you are going to replace it yourself.
 
Once you have the right tools and make sure the tank is low, it is a piece of cake to replace. The Les Andrews book has great pictures.
 
its actually very easy with the ford tool. just did it last weekend on mine and it takes about 5 minutes..take off the center dash panel with the four screws and the wiring behind if you need to. make sure there not much gas in the tank and then use the tool. the whole gauge comes out and you change the float. the put it back together. very simple
 
I keep seeing reference to the "Good steel tools" for gauge removal. Is this the one that Bratton's sells? (part # 13520) I recently purchased one from them with their new guide piece, it's steel, and it has a square driver instead of being star shaped. Havn't tried it yet but the star shaped aluminum design would seem to have a better grip on the unit.
 
From Brattons you will need:

GAS GAUGE REBUILD KIT Part #13560 (has Neoprene Float - don't use a cork float anymore)
GAS GAUGE TOOL Part #13520 This is the good steel tool 2 piece set
GAS GAUGE WRENCH HOLDER Part #13525 This is handy if you have a stubborn gauge nut

As mentioned before, disconnect your battery before removing the dash.
 
Rusty Homestead Fl said:
I keep seeing reference to the "Good steel tools" for gauge removal. Is this the one that Bratton's sells? (part # 13520) I recently purchased one from them with their new guide piece, it's steel, and it has a square driver instead of being star shaped. Havn't tried it yet but the star shaped aluminum design would seem to have a better grip on the unit.
Click to expand...


I think the steel squared tool grips better.
 
I've got the aluminum tools and they perform adequately. They required me to push tight to keep them from popping off while tightening, but I don't know if the steel ones grip better. My car is an early 80's resto and the parts unscrewed easily. If yours has not been taken apart for many years it could be well stuck, if so I would probably recommend going for the steel.
 
Thanks for all the great input. I will order the parts/tools as suggested and proceed. It probably isn't a bad idea for me to "rebuild" the gauge.... it is looking a bit tired and varnished. Thanks - Seth
 
If you are going to remove the gauge for any reason, it's a good time to replace and/or clean everything. The repair is dangerous enough to do the first time, so there's no sense reusing old gaskets and find out you have to do the job over again if they get damaged and leak.
 
Has the black paint in the "0 1/4 1/2 3/4 F" markings disappeared? You can have fun restoring it:

1: Clean the curved sector with the markings real well.
2: With a tiny brush or toothpick, fill the letters with fuel-proof paint. I used a glossy black epoxy spray paint. (I sprayed some into a small cup). It will take 2 or 3 coats. Do not worry about putting on a bit too much.
3: When the paint is really dry, wet-sand the sector with something like 600 grit paper to remove all the overflow paint.

Before image: http://dougbraun.com/model_a_gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=5578
After image: http://dougbraun.com/model_a_gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=5581

Doug
 
I prefer to use alum. tather than the steel tool because steel can cause a "ststic" arc whereas a alum tool will not, it is a hazardous area to work in with or without gas in the tank Gord, b by the Bay
 
To Fordfixer - I recently rebuilt my gas gage because of the float but could not find a supplier of the Brass Float. Can you post where you got yours from?

To Gord B. by the bay - I thought that was a good point that you had made about the steel vs the alumium. Never thought of it when I did mine. Thanks

Cape Codder
 
removal of the gas gauge is pretty simple. I would not recommend the aluminum tool. The star and outer wrench do not fit very well. I had a heck of a time getting mine screwed down tight enough to stop any seepage.
 
Had no problem when I did mine with the alum tool. new cork gaskets, no leaks.
Cape Codder: I believe most people use a float from a tillotson carb, something that will fit thru the opening.
Paul in CT
 
Ditto what Don just said. I also had to modify the tools, but they work fine now.

I had one guage that was extremely hard to loosen and I had to press in with all my might and weight and use an extension on the tool to get it loose.
 
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