Fuel Filters?

Not needed if you are running an original carb with original filters.

My fordor would clog the tank at the outlet. I cleaned the big stuff by flushing and then put a short tube inside so the junk could not settle and clog the line.

Almost all the stuff was caught in the first filter on the firewall. Never had a problem with dirt in the carb.

An inline filter is just asking for trouble you dont need. There are extra connections that can leak and it may impede flow if you get the wrong type.

Remember the original A systems were designed to work with dirty crappy gas from the factory.
 
I have been running the "pencil" filter in the tank valve and the wix 33039 for 12 years with no issues. I did have major trouble with the micron filter that goes in the sediment bowl. It collapsed while on a drive one day. That's when I switched to the wix filter.
 
Hi 1929,
I use the In-tank, "pencil" filter/mesh and of couse that filter in the Carb, that is it.
I have seen many times how the use of "other" fuel filters have had folks stopped on the side of the road. if you must, use these "extra" filters, recomend you always carry an extra filter with you!

Hugh
 
1929 said:
I have the 33039, plus there is 2 screens, should there only be one screen?
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one screen in the bowl above the filter
one pencil filter on the tank valve
one screen in the fuel inlet inside the carburetor
 
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You will know if you have a filter in the tank because you would not have a need for any other filters, all the crap would stay in the tank. That is you should not find any junk in the firewall filter. If that was not the case then why put the filter in in the first place?

If you have a pencil filter in the tank you will always never get the last bit of fuel in the tank reducing range for the rest of the life of your car. Kind of annoying if you plan on going on long trips as the tank is not the large to begin with to lose a gallon or two. Plus, you also never get rid of the dirt in the tank.

You are MUCH better off flushing the tank a few times to get most of the crud out. Then put a short (1") tube in the valve. This prevents the valve getting clogged when you stop for a while.

Run for a while with the factory filters. Clearing the caught crud periodically. Eventually you will find the amount of crud in the filter goes way down. Then you pull the tube out of the valve and you are good to go.
 
1929 said:
I guess I would have to drain the tank to see if I have a pencil filter in the tank valve
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very fine sediment stil works its way past the tank pencil filter into the glass bowl. if your not sure what you have on your shutoff it should be replaced anyway with a fresh one. the bowl filter 33039 collects the fine particles..
i keep a few in stock along with the cork bowl gaskets
 
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I contemplated getting a 33039 filter from the local NAPA, they said it would have to be ordered in and would cost $18 for the filter. I was shocked at the price of that little filter, expected it to be around 3 or 4 dollars, so said "forget it".
 
katy said:
I contemplated getting a 33039 filter from the local NAPA, they said it would have to be ordered in and would cost $18 for the filter. I was shocked at the price of that little filter, expected it to be around 3 or 4 dollars, so said "forget it".
Click to expand...

ur getting ripped i pay 5.43 in stock at my local shop jobber .... find another source
one quick google search "33039 wix" sumitt pops up along with many others...
dont give up so easily find another local auto shop jobber to eliminate the shipping...
 

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Mitch is right.$18 is way too much I get the WIX filter at O'Reilly for $5.49
 

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Fleet Filter $3.23
Amazon $7.70
O'Riley $5.49
Summit $5.25
eBay $10.58

You can just about pay anything you want!
 
Another thing to think about. What's in the tank now? In my case the A is new to me. When I took delivery the bowl was mostly clean and it had an inline filter. I filled up the tank with 91 octane no ethanol gas. The sediment bowl started to collect crud. With the second tank of the same gas more crud in the bowl and the inline filter pluged up. Now much less crud in the cleaned bowl and a new inline filter. I will never know what the seller was using for fuel. But I'll bet it had ethanol in it.
 
Drain the whole system, flush the tank after removing the shut-off valve, clean the sediment bowl, check the carb bowl, and then replace the pencil filter and the sediment bowl filter.
 


Here's the complete set of fuel filters I have tried and rejected. The red fiberglass Fram CG3 worked the best, but that style has been replaced with paper, which doesn't work as well for me. These things are extremely seductive: They LOOK like such a great idea. My theory is that they only really work for folks whose system is so clean that they're not really needed. That theory has scored so high on my personal "truthiness" scale that it may be totally impervious to any data to the contrary.
 
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