FS ignitions hard starting

earbleeder said:
So this is where I end up. Fully charged battery------- (I think I tried it with the key off but will check again), tried several known good starters/cables/reed switches, Nurex timing advancer checked by Nurex to be ok, timing set with nurex wrench and checked with light= where it's supposed to be, sounds advanced like it is going to break a bendix/FS won't sell individual parts to try... I agree that it sounds like the starter is pulling too much but can't find out why.
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Ok, I'm lost here. Based on you initial description, checking the turnover speed of the engine with the ignition off was the MOST important test as every other test is worthless until that is done as I stated in my first post.

Second, you stated "fully charged battery". What is that based on? Did you check all cells with a battery hydrometer? This will indicate one or more bad cells which will tell you if a battery that was good two weeks ago has now been damaged. You can also remove the battery and have it load tested for free at most auto parts stores that sell batteries (at least in my area).

Unless keeping you head under the hood is a welcome escape in your daily life I strongly suggest doing the easy and most logical things first ;).

 
Think you might have something there Benson. I've looked at so many things that I'm sure one of the first was turning it over with the key off , "fully charged" meaning fully charged on a charger and out of a known good starting A, along with the multiple starters and cables and misc. Hence the narrowing down to the ignition. Next step is going to a different ignition, stock or otherwise. Which probably should have been done first but I do love having my head under the hood almost as much as asking questions on this forum.:eek:
 
earbleeder said:
Think you might have something there Benson. I've looked at so many things that I'm sure one of the first was turning it over with the key off , "fully charged" meaning fully charged on a charger and out of a known good starting A, along with the multiple starters and cables and misc. Hence the narrowing down to the ignition. Next step is going to a different ignition, stock or otherwise. Which probably should have been done first but I do love having my head under the hood almost as much as asking questions on this forum.:eek:
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Ok, the same ambiguous answer as yesterday. "I'm sure I...." means there is some doubt. Why is it so difficult to climb in the car and press the starter with the key off? I guess that if you ARE sure then you can confirm that it turned at normal speed instead or your previous description which was "I mean the first revolutions of the motor are VERY slow". If that is truly the case then you have an issue with the ignition.
 
you wont know till you try one, makes the motor run smoother, more snap , starts right now, and a better power band, and you can get one that looks stock!(not the one we run but were rebellious)
 
I guess I side more with Glenn on this one and think along that line. A perfectly restored stock Model A system seems to work just fine. That's always been my experience. For as little as I drive our 'A', the stock set up does well. Running modern points now but those are going to be deep-sixed soon and back to original.

I know this doesn't answer the original post, I guess I see it sometimes as folks trying to re-engineer a pretty good little car when sometimes that isn't really necessary. Sometimes all it seems that we are doing when we do that is to cover up a problem and not really try to fix, the original problem.

Not all mods are bad, Tom's EVR is GREAT as an example, but electronic ignitions seem to garner a lot of 'what's wrong with my set up' kind of questions...............
 
Clean the connections from the module to ground. I have seen exactly the same problem three times with various electronic modules. Nu-Rex, FSI and a Pertronics. I took my car out for some photos with my nieces kids last Thanksgiving and the same thing was present with my car. (FSI) It's my coming Saturday's project to clean and tighten all the module connections. (Three times may likely now be four!)
It appears you have low voltage to the module.

Every time but once I have had a hard starting engine with electronic ignition, it has been caused by a weak ground connection to the electronic module. IMO: Cleaning the module ground connection is a simple test as it takes little time. Once the problem was a bad cell in the battery...again low voltage.

earbleeder: Please post the discovered cause once it is sorted out. Thanks.

Good Day!
 
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machine girl said:
you wont know till you try one, makes the motor run smoother, more snap , starts right now, and a better power band, and you can get one that looks stock!(not the one we run but were rebellious)
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The FS ignition kit that I installed in my stock distributor helped squeeze some extra mileage from a gallon of fuel, 35 mph hills became 40 mph hills and yes it starts better and runs better. No one knows that I have electronic ignition unless I tell them. I haven't had any negative feedback yet.
Oh, and where would we be without our rebels? You gotta love 'em.
Chet
 
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Dave in MN said:
Clean the connections from the module to ground. I have seen exactly the same problem three times with various electronic modules. Nu-Rex, FSI and a Pertronics. I took my car out for some photos with my nieces kids last Thanksgiving and the same thing was present with my car. (FSI) It's my coming Saturday's project to clean and tighten all the module connections.

Please post the discovered cause.

Good Day!
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There is no point. He still has been unable to respond whether the engine turns over normally with the ignition off. Nothing can be diagnosed if the patient won't respond. Worse than that, nobody following the thread will ever learn what they hope to so it becomes a dead-end for everyone. That is an all to common sad occurrence.
 
It's a club members car and it's not right in front of me. Thanks to all the CONSTRUCTIVE comments given by the people who DON'T KNOW EVERYTHING but are willing to share what they do.:)
 
My Model A with 6 volt system and FS ignition turns over at the same speed with or without the ignition turned on. I will turn over slower with the ign. switch on if the advance lever is advanced a little too far, tried that too. I have been employed over the past 55 years in many mechanical fields including aircraft. I will be the first to admit that I DON'T KNOW EVERYTHING and I have never professed to. Speaking for myself, I am willing to share my knowledge and experience with anyone who asks.
There is a wealth of knowledge on the FORD BARN and many many people who are more than willing to help. The proper help can't be given without communication and information.
Chet
 
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I have had an FX Ignition system in place ON MY 30 Tudor and I an completely satisfied after 5 to 7 years.
 
Duffy, your way wrong, with correct timing the FS does the taca taca ?if that's what you call it, most problems are lack of experience, and taking the time to work it out, many feel ,well I spent a lot of$$ just bolt it on and go. we will say again need help call mel at FS. he will take the time to help. also many times the problem is not the dist.
 
Would be interesting to see what the draw is thye on ammeter when:

Just the ignition key is turned on

When cranking the engine

The ammeter can be a wonderul diag aid at times :)
 
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