Frozen Shackle

Beauford said:
I'll lift frame off with a ******** engine hoist.
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I was working on a frame just as your's is pictured. When I was removing the 4 nuts from the two U bolts they were tight all the way down the thread. I thought it was due to much rust, but the spring center bolt was rusted in two, and it was spring pressure making them tight. When I removed the last nut the frame jumped a few feet into the air. Luckily my head was just behind the rear crossmember.:eek:
 
Thanks, Tom...my center nut is very rusty. U bolts look a whole lot better. I'm hoping cutting shackles will relieve some of the spring. I will be careful as you state above.
 
It will relieve ALL the tension! I wouldn't want to be that close (torch distance) when it releases. Wrap chain around all the leaves you can get to and the axle. Hold it down. Remember, The arc wants to close! You can either release some tension (if the bolt is rusted through) or find out if it's OK. Next act in this play; Let's pretend that this bolt is good/solid so that when you take the spring off, there's no cataclysm and the spring comes off in one piece. But the bolt is locked up with solid rust. You get two wrenches and started to unscrew it! But it twists apart instead. Once that spring is free of the chassis, put two C-clamps on it at the top of the arc. One on either side of the bolt leaving enough room to get a wrench on it. These clamps are for safety sake. There is still plenty of tension in the leaves even though most of it has been released by disconnecting the shackle.
Terry




Beauford said:
Thanks, Tom...my center nut is very rusty. U bolts look a whole lot better. I'm hoping cutting shackles will relieve some of the spring. I will be careful as you state above.
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Terry said:
It will relieve ALL the tension! I wouldn't want to be that close (torch distance) when it releases. Wrap chain around all the leaves you can get to and the axle. Hold it down. Remember, The arc wants to close! You can either release some tension (if the bolt is rusted through) or find out if it's OK. Next act in this play; Let's pretend that this bolt is good/solid so that when you take the spring off, there's no cataclysm and the spring comes off in one piece. But the bolt is locked up with solid rust. You get two wrenches and started to unscrew it! But it twists apart instead. Once that spring is free of the chassis, put two C-clamps on it at the top of the arc. One on either side of the bolt leaving enough room to get a wrench on it. These clamps are for safety sake. There is still plenty of tension in the leaves even though most of it has been released by disconnecting the shackle.
Terry
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Terry, my thought it to cut shackles. Cut off rusted center bolt. Replace with new bolt and then slowly remove u bolts.
 
If you are going to use C-clamps get the biggest, baddest, toughest honkers you can find. I have seen photos on Fordbarn of clamps that twisted like they were rubber under the pressure of a leaf spring. Not a bad idea to double up with wrapped chain too.
 
Cool hand...I have some badass clamps and a serious tow strap. I'd rather have that snap than a chain busting.
 
Mine did its job today, worked super safe and effortless. My shackles were rusted solid, maybe like yours. Tightened spring spreader until I could tell it had pushed shackle back, then another tighten turn. Pounded shackles out and relieved tension on spreader. Very boring outcome and I liked that a lot.
 
PatrickGrant said:
Mine did its job today, worked super safe and effortless. My shackles were rusted solid, maybe like yours. Tightened spring spreader until I could tell it had pushed shackle back, then another tighten turn. Pounded shackles out and relieved tension on spreader. Very boring outcome and I liked that a lot.
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Pat, if you lived closer I'd invite you over to watch the show...just got off work
and was going to do it this evening but after working 16 hours I think some rest to help my alertness is due. They will still be there tomorrow.
 
Actually, I've never heard of one snapping chain . It isn't that powerful! But the tow strap may be a good idea! It will have a little give/stretch in it. When you release the four nuts do all four together to release the tension slowly on both sides. I think that releasing the shackles will release most of the tension but I think there's plenty of energy left in it. I'm sure you could come up with plenty of obits of guys who were careless or like me, underestimated the power there.
Terry



Beauford said:
Cool hand...I have some badass clamps and a serious tow strap. I'd rather have that snap than a chain busting.
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I took my spring apart to clean and paint each leaf. I think I used a piece of 3/8 threaded rod to reassemble. IIRC I got them all assembled and tightened down then I put two C-clamps on the pack. removed the ready rod and replaced it with a grade 8 3/8x24 bolt that was the correct length. I think I left the one clamp on it for insurance until I assembled the chassis to it. Also, I squared the hex head of the bolt so it would fit in the hole in the crossmember.
Terry
 
Beauford, I have a friend in Raven, Va. and I wish I was there now. It's like 60 degrees there today, right? I would be there with the spreader in a heartbeat. I'm not too good on most "A" problems yet, but I did work in an auto salvage yard for 3 years in the 70's. I sure can tear stuff apart, putting it back together is another story. All springs are very dangerous, but burning cars up is fun.
Take care, Pat
 
Pat...this POS came to me all apart and I'm like you putting it back together. I have bags of screws, bolts, parts...have no idea. Thus I'm on here to bother all you fine folks.

Mitch, can you post video on here? Guess I could upload the massacre on youtube and put a link here. LOL
 
HAHAHAHA Tom, do you double knot the laces??? I assume their C clamps are like the belt sander I got there that exploded in pieces on me. Took it back and they gave me another. Same thing...pow!!! Money back after that.....Sand blaster works well though
 
the throw of your spring spreader does NOT have enough adjustment to unload the spring. you will need at least have 5" of adjustment to unload the spring.
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Beauford said: "my vendor spring spreader"

I would think that a spring spreader from one of the vendors would have enough adjustment to both spread the spring for removal and still allow it to slacken off enough to unload the spring.
 
Another thought to consider might be to use a couple of large C clamps (maybe even something like a large wood clamp) to clamp the top of the rear crossmember to the bottom of the bottom spring leaf, then loosen the center bolt, and then gradually loosen the clamps holding the spring to the crossmember. There will still be plenty of tension on the individual leafs as the clamps are loosened, but this might also afford you some additional latitude in convincing the shackles to cooperate; at worst it should allow you to remove a majority of the tension otherwise in place on the rear spring. Above all though, only loosen one side, taking care to ensure that the remaining side is not compromised. Good luck with your project.
 
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