front wheel cylinder bleeding tools

56yblock

56yblock

Senior Member
i've try to bleed my brake hydraulic fluid system, the back is ok but i can't loosen screws of front wheels cylinders with a classic tools.
what of kind of tools do you use for that
thanks for help me
 
it would help if you explain the problem in more detail.such as what you mean by classic tools.(boxed end wrench etc)the bleeder can be hard to access if I recall if frozen this will exacerbate the problem of loosening
 
sorry for the explain my english is very bad,
yes the screw to bleed, is hard to access i think i don't have the correct tool
 
Usually a 1/4" drive socket, extension and breaker bar get into tight spots.

Later bleeders I've seen are often metric as Jeff noted. I had to go out and get a 10mm line wrench a few years ago. These work good on back bleeders where there is more room.
 
A box end wrench usually does the job for me. If they are really tight, they have extra length box ends.
 
If they are the original wheel cylinders, the bleeder screws are S.A.E. 3/8" hex head. If the cylinders are aftermarket, they are metric and a smaller size, but regardless which type and size, get a 6-point box-end wrench. May need to spray a little WD-40 on the screw threads first before attempting to loosen.
If you are bleeding brakes yourself without help, the easiest way to do it is with a Mity-vac and clear, flexible tubing of the proper size. Make certain that the master cylinder is full at all times while vacuuming fluid out through the wheel cylinder. When air bubbles no longer appear in the clear plastic hose, close the bleeder screw.
 
OEM Ford bleeders were on the small side, 3/16" or 5/16" in some cases, even 1/4"/ Been a while since I've done one, probably the last was on a '64 Ford.

If they are froze up, a propane torch will loosen them up quick, I've been using Mapp gas which burns hotter.
 
is this that kind of tool what you talk for the job?
 

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the problem with that tool is it is a 12 point you will easily tear the shape of the bleeder head you should try a 6 point for sure.as bob suggested try to heat it.a trick I used in the day and still works is to heat then take an ice cube and place on the bleeder as soon as you remove the heat.do not use that tool.look for a 6 point wrench
 
Craftsman made a 90 degree bleeder wrench, I should look at mine. I used it all the time when I was doing brakes every day. Definitely 6-point all the way. 12-point will round the bleeders off.
 
here are a couple of pictures of the tool you need.one is a picture of one of the wrenches placed on a ford bleeder on a mounted wheel cylinder I have.it is a 3/8" the others are pictures of a swivel headed wrench but you should be able to use the one I show on the bleeder.if you spray PB Blaster or similar on it and let it sit as Jeff suggested it may also help if you do not want to use heat and ice.you can if really stuck use something as a lever on wrench such as a small piece of tubing that will still allow the wrench to fit snug on bleeder.just be aware if a lot of pressure on bleeder is still required let it sit a little longer as you can still strip the bleeder if using to much force.also if the wrench is not a good quality one it will spread the jaws that fit on bleeder.
 

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I have actually also used a 3/8" deep-well socket, 1/4" drive and socket wrench, but the socket must be 6-point. Add a short extension if you need to, but hold the end tight. You might be able to get more leverage using a socket wrench with a cheater pipe on the end. Don't get real crazy with the cheater pipe though. Spray the bleeder screw threads down with a rust dissolving solvent first.
If you do try to use heat, be real careful with the tip/flame because you could catch brake hose on fire!
 
If the threads of the bleeder nipple are really stuck and you try twisting it a little too much, might it snap off?
 
First off your English is fine and much better than any other language that I might try...

As far as a liquid to help loosen the bleeder valve nothing beats 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. Drips a little on and wait overnight. Before you try to loosen the valve try to tighten it a tiny bit and then try to loosen. If it doesn't move apply more acetone/atf fluid and come back the next day. And six point is the only way to go but take it easy and it will come loose!
 
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