front wheel bearings

oldspert

oldspert

Senior Member
I checked the front wheel bearings on my 29 today. The roller bearings are like new but the nuts were very tight. I have been taught, on newer cars, to tighten the nut finger tight and back off one cotter pin space. Is this correct for Model A? Seems like there is no space for the grease if the nuts are tightened too much.
 
The "A" era factory technique is to tighten the nut until the bearing binds, then back-off the nut one or two notches until the bearing spins freely. Install the cotter pin.
 
X2 on Mr. Bidonde's comment. I grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock positions and push and pull on both sides at the same time, then alternate pushing at 3 and 9. There should be no slop in the bearing if you want the toe in and steering to work correctly.

When alternating the pushing of 3 and 9, slack in other front end components may fool you into thinking the bearing is loose. Spindle bushings, spindle shims, tie rod ends etc. Verify the source. You may need a light and a second person until you get familiar with the process.

On this forum, I have read different tips for finding a good method. I do as Bob states. But, I have never backed up two slot positions. I have a shim under one side as it was always requiring nearly a full slot position and that was too loose. As I recall my shim was made from .050 sheet metal.

When I'm done, I spin the wheel and it must revolve at least 5 times. After driving, if I raise the car and retest, it spins many times more than the original 5 but still has no slack???

No ruined or hot bearings thus far, but I'm still learning here too. Any suggestions for improvements are appreciated.
 
Yep, nuts should be 'just' right. But, thats relative considering the castle nut. With the bearings packed with new grease and installed, just spin the wheel while snugging up the nut. Get the nut kinda tight, you'll get the feel of it. Then back it off usually to the next slot and slide in the cotter. Sometimes you may need to back to the second slot. But, as said, better a little too loose than too tight.
 
All my life I've used the large washer as a gauge. Tighten first, then loosen until you can slide the washer left and right with a screw driver. Then loosen to first cotter pin hole. I've never had a front bearing failure.
 
Remember, some castle nuts have fewer slots than the original nuts..If memory serves me well I believe originals had 8 slots and a lot of replacements have 6. This may not sound like much but it makes a difference. :)



TOB
 
I like the Japanese way of doing it. On the rear wheels of a front wheel drive car, they have a sheet metal cap that goes over the hex nut ( the nut is not slotted). The cap has 12 points and 6 slots around the top. The split pin goes through two of those slots in the "cap", not the nut. That gives twice as many positions for the split pin. (Every 1/12th of a turn)
I hope I explained that clearly enough.
 
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